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Identifying a "good deal"


The History Kid

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So, apparently...most people in the part of the country I'm in either really love their Klipsch, or have never even heard of it. It's really depressing, as Craigslist frequently yields no results. I was wondering, is there a definitive way to determine how genuine or legit a Klipsch product is on eBay? Is it safe to say that most personal-sales are safe bets? (i.e. not B-Products)

What kind of things can I look for to figure out if something is a good deal or not? I have not yet purchased any Klipsch products online, always new...but I'm looking for some of the older lines to finish off a system.

Any feedback is appreciated! :)

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Search Tempest is a large search engine that will find products in a 1000 mile radius. I am not saying drive a 1000 miles but widen your search beyond the local area. A lot of the Ebay stuff is legit. Just do your homework and ask the right question before buying something and use Paypal. This way you can get your money back if the item is not as descrided on Ebay.

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Ah great, another engine to try. Maybe it'll yield some better results.

Are there any other questions to ask other than determining condition, and verifying that the serial sticker is in tact (along with original purchase location)?

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Guest Steven1963

I was always under the impression that 'B' products were new items that couldn't be sold as new - that they had a flaw of some sort. If that is true, then that is not an issue for you when looking for some of the older lines to finish off your system.

Do you have a specific piece in mind that you would like to share with us? The nature of your question is rather general and without specifics it makes it kinda hard for someone on this site to give advice as far as what to look for or what questions to ask.

As far as Ebay goes, I've had good success picking up some vintage gear I wanted. I asked questions where necessary and although on some of the items I bid more than maybe I could have gotten them for, they were exactly as described when I received them. So the price was right...for me. You can get your money back if the item you buy isn't what was described. Look for sellers that have sold alot of items and have ratings that are 99% or higher.

Edited by Steven1963
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I'm looking for an RC-3 II and an RS-3 II pair to round off my RF-3's. I have an RC-52 II and a pair of RS-42 II's now, but I'd like to round the system off and get things sync'd a little better. It's a case of neuroticism. :lol:

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  • 1 month later...

Good question, but hard to say....labels are tricky little devils.    I have come across a few that have "no" signatures, but after looking at them very, very closely, you can sometimes make out something that has been there, an impression in the paper, etc.  Hard to believe, but I think that some of them were actually signed in pencil, which I would have a hard time thinking any of the newer models would have....More than the label though, is there anything else about the speaker that might raise your question?  Possible to open it up and look at the crossover?  Just a thought....

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Hard to say based off the pictures. However, the drivers appear to be in absolute beautiful shape. The terminals appear to be fairly dusted, so my assumption would be that these haven't been messed with - at least not recently. Honestly, the entire speaker appears to be in good shape, no dents or dings. Is there a serial number structure that is followed on Reference speakers? Would that be something else to check?

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Aside from the unscrupulous retailer, or blatant differences between buyers' and sellers' definitions of a particular "quality"... the final hurdle when buying anything online is to link up with a seller that actually knows how to pack an item for shipment.

 

Their is no best deal on an amp, TT, or speaker when it arrives (if at all) on your doorstep completely wrecked because some half-twit believed all that was needed between your item and a nuclear blast was news paper and masking tape.

Edited by Quiet_Hollow
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..BTY what's the point of a serial number? Why the fuss?

 

With all the "B" stock floating around, and the 10-15 years of modifying that's encouraged in these parts, what does a legitimate serial number mean to you?

 

A date at best? And what good is that?

 

I know I'm sounding snark, but seriously, unless you have a very specific target in mind, "stock" is moot.  <_<  <_<  ;)

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..BTY what's the point of a serial number? Why the fuss?

 

With all the "B" stock floating around, and the 10-15 years of modifying that's encouraged in these parts, what does a legitimate serial number mean to you?

 

A date at best? And what good is that?

 

I know I'm sounding snark, but seriously, unless you have a very specific target in mind, "stock" is moot.  <_<  <_<  ;)

I guess I'm more just trying to make sure I'm not getting a sticker on it that says "Made in U.S.A." that's Made in China. :P

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