Cantilope Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I am starting to build a 24" Tuba HT. In the plans it has an access door on the one side to access the woofer. If I was to use speaker gasket material and screws similar to the ones on the back of my Cornwalls, could I get away from the access door and have the entire 3'x3' side removable? Would it still be air tight? I am not sure of it's final orientation or location in my room and I am not sure where to install terminals until I give it a listen and a position. Be a lot easier to remove the entire side panel and skip making the door all together. Would I loose any strength provided by the PL bond? Any thoughts or advice? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I wouldn't vary from the plans. I would think that if you made a removable side it would be virtually impossible to make every part of the horn path air tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 You'd also need screws on about 4" centers to do what you propose. The entire side of the cabinet would be covered in screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted September 3, 2014 Moderators Share Posted September 3, 2014 (edited) I agree with CECAA, it would be hard or impossible to match the strength of the glue, the glue is like welding it together to the point that it will break away from the glued area first,(I have tried this test many times) you can never get that with screws. Not that you need that much strength, but the stronger, air tight and solid the better the sound. Edited September 3, 2014 by dtel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cantilope Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 (edited) Thanks to both of you! Nice analogy, as I am a welding hobbyist and work with steel a ton, but I have very little wood experience. I completely understand the reference. Sometimes a bolt will work, but sometimes you just need to lay a bead. I'll stick with the plans. If this was steel, it would be a piece of cake to build... and it would have been done weeks ago. I can nearly fabricate a complete 1972 CJ but putting together a few sheets of plywood is a totally different ball game... Edited September 3, 2014 by Cantilope 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cantilope Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 Here is my CJ... A complete frame off restoration. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted September 3, 2014 Moderators Share Posted September 3, 2014 Nice, and a V8, the Jeeps like that went crazy with prices, nice looking jeep. We have a old 01 Cherokee, straight 6, runs fine burns no oil and about 23 mpg, we will probably drive it till the wheels fall off, sure beats a monthly note. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted September 3, 2014 Moderators Share Posted September 3, 2014 Just remembered, I built a Spud and changed the access door to where I wanted instead of on the end like on the plans. What I did was I had a few old metal signs like street signs, one about the size of a no-parking sign was used for a cover. I cut out the hole a couple inches smaller than the sign, bolted that piece to the sign. In the overlap of the sign I drilled holes and bolted it to the sub with bolts and T-nuts with a rubber gasket, seems to work fine and only sticks up about the thickness of the sign. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cantilope Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 It came stock with the AMC 304, I fuel injected it and get about 20 MPG out of it. I bought it in 1990 for $700, it was totaled at the time and I was only 14. Managed to keep it through college, a wife and kids... Thanks for the advice. Sounds like sticking to the plans, might be the easiest solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Nice wheelie machine. I worked on a CJ with a 350 this summer. I highly recommend them. Awesome ride! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Nice project, i spent much of my teen years stuffing BB mopar engines in Gremlin's, Pacers & Diplomat's for fun. Hope your Jeep lasts the test of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cantilope Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 I rebuilt it in my high school shop class 1991-94 and then did the major overhaul in 2006 including; 2.5" wide wrangler springs, boxed frame, multiport EFI and electronic ignition, hyd Clutch, low gear kit for transfer case, OX locker, heated seats, fold out spare carrier & bumpers, fold and tumble rear seat, disk brakes, fuses, nickel plated timing cover, lapped gear set in oil pump (idles at 65 psi), electric fan, and a new top. I am pretty happy with how it has turned out. I can't even tell you the stories of what I did with this thing in High School. I am lucky to be alive... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted September 4, 2014 Moderators Share Posted September 4, 2014 I am pretty happy with how it has turned out. I would hope so you changed out a truckload of parts, still cheap considering the price of a new one which couldn't compare to what you have now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 I am lucky to be alive... Those things would roll over at the drop of a hat. The first kid from my high school graduating class that died ended op rolling his CJ two monthsafter we graduated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdross1 Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 Aside from the airtight issue is driving screws into the 1/2" ply end grain would make me very uneasy. Besides that if the Loctite PL were used initially doubt you would ever get the speaker apart without damage. Gearing up for to build a pair of Table Tuba's the speaker access hole will be covered with grill cloth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cantilope Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 Grill cloth? So that chamber doesn't need to be air tight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Grill cloth? So that chamber doesn't need to be air tight? The Table Tuba doesn't need a sealed driver chamber like the THT does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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