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Active crossover with 2x4 MiniDSPs


NBPK402

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Audyessey........Yuck.  :wacko:

 

I'm not an Audyessey guy.  I have it in my HT receiver.  Tried it......Don't really care for it........and I would certainly never consider using it for a music system.

 

But that's just me.  To each his own.  Forge ahead.  :)

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Audyessey........Yuck.  :wacko:

 

I'm not an Audyessey guy.  I have it in my HT receiver.  Tried it......Don't really care for it........and I would certainly never consider using it for a music system.

 

But that's just me.  To each his own.  Forge ahead.  :)

I don't have a separate system for music, and another one for video, so I need to use it for both. My main listening is HT, but I am starting to get back into listening to music by itself again. I would like to get the speakers sounding great without Audyessy, and then just let the Denon kick in Audyessy when I want to watch a movie. Edited by ellisr63
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Thanks, I just ordered the rest of the cables I need to get the bi-amp completed. If the cables are here by Saturday morning I will try this on the weekend. :) Can't wait to hear all the Yamaha Pro amps on the 1/4 pies, and the "T" chip amps on the JBL horns. I hope it improves the sound even more over the "AA" Networks.

This is what I have the MiniDSP set to for starters...

crossover2_zps6c16929d.png

Will this be ok... Or should I be crossing over at 500hz? When I look at the specs for the EV DH1a it says "500-20,000 Hz (essentially flat 500-5,000Hz with 6-dB-per-octave roll off to 20,000 Hz, rapid roll off beyond)".

I am a neophyte at this but don't the high pass and low pass frequencies need to be the same? At least to start off? Then both the low freqs and high freqs will be down 3 dB at the crossover point and theoretically the acoustic output power sums to equal as in the pass band.

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Thanks, I just ordered the rest of the cables I need to get the bi-amp completed. If the cables are here by Saturday morning I will try this on the weekend. :) Can't wait to hear all the Yamaha Pro amps on the 1/4 pies, and the "T" chip amps on the JBL horns. I hope it improves the sound even more over the "AA" Networks.

This is what I have the MiniDSP set to for starters...

crossover2_zps6c16929d.png

Will this be ok... Or should I be crossing over at 500hz? When I look at the specs for the EV DH1a it says "500-20,000 Hz (essentially flat 500-5,000Hz with 6-dB-per-octave roll off to 20,000 Hz, rapid roll off beyond)".

I am a neophyte at this but don't the high pass and low pass frequencies need to be the same? At least to start off? Then both the low freqs and high freqs will be down 3 dB at the crossover point and theoretically the acoustic output power sums to equal as in the pass band.
I haven't got a clue... Maybe someone that knows will step up and let us know for sure how it should be. Claud told me to put the HiPass at 50hz , and I had been told before the crossover should be at 400-500hz. Maybe the cutoff is not the same as the crossover?
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No not on the minidsp each channel controls a different driver so say output 1 goes to the woofer it would have a high pass and a low pass. The high pass would be the cutoff of the quarter pie and the low pass the 400hz. Say output 2 goes to your midrange/upper end driver it only needs to use the high pass at 400hz then bypass the low pass filter as its not needed this creates your 400hz crossover. Also on output 1 uncheck the highpass as you want it set at 50hz or the cutoff of the quarter pie.

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No not on the minidsp each channel controls a different driver so say output 1 goes to the woofer it would have a high pass and a low pass. The high pass would be the cutoff of the quarter pie and the low pass the 400hz. Say output 2 goes to your midrange/upper end driver it only needs to use the high pass at 400hz then bypass the low pass filter as its not needed this creates your 400hz crossover. Also on output 1 uncheck the highpass as you want it set at 50hz or the cutoff of the quarter pie.

Is it bypassed when the button has the red LED?
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So if I understand correctly...

1: This would be for the Midrange (with a 500hz crossover)

hornsettings_zpsf2b2310d.png...

Or

1b: Would this be the correct way for the Midrange...

hornsettings2_zps0f91d243.png

2: This would be for the 1/4 pies (with a 500hz crossover and a 50hz hipass)...

bassbinsettings_zpsf25a31cc.png

I think I have them correctly bypassed where needed... Is this correct? 1+2 for the 1/4 pies, and 3+4 for the horns.

Edited by ellisr63
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input 1 goes to output 1&2 so you need to use output 1 for the quarter pie output 2 for the midrange. input 2 goes to outputs 3&4 so output 3 for the other quarter pie and output 4 for the other midrange. Also you have to unclick the bypass button on the quarter pie high pass filter. Notice on your frequency response graph the output of the quarter pie is not dropping at 50hz.

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input 1 goes to output 1&2 so you need to use output 1 for the quarter pie output 2 for the midrange. input 2 goes to outputs 3&4 so output 3 for the other quarter pie and output 4 for the other midrange. Also you have to unclick the bypass button on the quarter pie high pass filter. Notice on your frequency response graph the output of the quarter pie is not dropping at 50hz.

So this is the correct way...

bassbinsettings3_zps06dac840.png

with 3+4 being the same settings as 1+2, correct?

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Here is how I have mine, different bass bin, different horn.  Same principle.

I am confused still... So you are crossing over at 500hz but your bass bin has the Hi Pass bypassed? Shouldn't there be something that shows how low the bass bin goes?

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Here is how I have mine, different bass bin, different horn.  Same principle.

I am confused still... So you are crossing over at 500hz but your bass bin has the Hi Pass bypassed? Shouldn't there be something that shows how low the bass bin goes?

 

You don't have to use a high pass in the minidsp. It just protects the driver. Also most avrs come with a built in high pass for each speaker.

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Now shouldn't the horn be set to 400 hz so the dip wouldn't be quite as much... Or does it matter?

A Linkwitz-Riley filter is designed to create a -6 db dip at a desired frequency.  When the high and low pass signals cross, the voltages will

sum, giving you a flat "curve".  The 24 dB slope will better protect the mid driver from lower frequencies (a driver killer).

 

Klipsch crossovers are Butterworth filters, and create a -3 dB dip at the desired frequency.  When combined, you will get a +3 dB bump.

 

Try them both.  That's the beauty of the active crossover...no parts change.  

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Now shouldn't the horn be set to 400 hz so the dip wouldn't be quite as much... Or does it matter?

A Linkwitz-Riley filter is designed to create a -6 db dip at a desired frequency.  When the high and low pass signals cross, the voltages will

sum, giving you a flat "curve".  The 24 dB slope will better protect the mid driver from lower frequencies (a driver killer).

 

Klipsch crossovers are Butterworth filters, and create a -3 dB dip at the desired frequency.  When combined, you will get a +3 dB bump.

 

Try them both.  That's the beauty of the active crossover...no parts change.

Thanks for explaining this to me... I know absolutely nothing about this, so now I know a little bit more. :)
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