jannegard1 Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Dean built me some custom crossovers for my BMS driver and Volti horns using the Jupiter capacitors i drop my jaws al i can say to you whith BMS drivers this is the best crossovers i ever heard thanks Dean 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max2 Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Post some pictures. Deans network builds are artwork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jannegard1 Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 Max2 yes they are a masterpice i try to take some pics after i start listen to this crossovers i cant stop listen i think i have some alk universal for sale now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arash Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 pictures please 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 (edited) These are Craig's, which are very similar to Jan's. Jan has a very nice set of Universals which I built him about a year ago, but he much prefers the Jupiter build. This is pretty much where I'm at too, the Jupiters are just killer Edited October 17, 2014 by DeanG 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jannegard1 Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 Thanks Dean for the pics the crossovers are a killer i never going back to any other crossovers the bms drivers and volti horns jbl 2404h and bobs CW1526C 15 inch Cast Frame Woofers give me a new klipschorn sound . Deans new crossovers sound wery fine at al music and levels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 (edited) These are Craig's, which are very similar to Jan's. Jan has a very nice set of Universals which I built him about a year ago, but he much prefers the Jupiter build. This is pretty much where I'm at too, the Jupiters are just killer.image.jpg I've a question for you, Dean. Those XO's are super clean looking but in nearly every XO I have ever seen, there are always resistors, and I notice your Jupiter build has none. Other than "they don't need them" can you explain why? Also, in one component (autotransformer?) a wire is a soldered on the left, but is connected by a crimped on blue connector on the right. Why is that, or what is the thinking on that? Edited October 17, 2014 by wvu80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 What type of screw is in the center of that little orange coil? Brass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 (edited) What type of screw is in the center of that little orange coil? Brass? It doesn't look brass, but sometimes the photos are not accurate. That screw looks like all the other wood screws holding components. +++ Related: What is the material in the CENTER of that orange coil? It almost looks like silicon seal or hot melt glue that has set up, but I wonder what its purpose is? Edited October 17, 2014 by wvu80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboxler Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 I'll take a shot The autoformer input is usually 0 - 5. This would equate to C - -0 on this one. With this one, one can move the non-common input to decrease the attenuation by 1 or 2 dB. I assume both connections on the output side of the autoformer are moveable, to adjust the mid attenuation to taste. That looks like a plastic spool for the inductor, or just a plastic cap to hold it down with a brass screw. A steel screw would disrupt the magnetic field inside the coil. The tweeter is probably needs no attenuation, therefore no need for l-pad resistors. But hey...I'm still learning! Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 It's been shown that metal in the center of a coil changes the inductance. That's why a brass screw is typically used. It will not change the inductance. Pretty well known. However, as fast I as say this.............I am betting Dean has a reason for what we are seeing if it's some other metal, or even plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muel Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 300 grade stainless is non-magnetic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jannegard1 Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 i think it is a brass screw the crossovers i have are 12db settings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heritage_Head Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 Those look really nice! congrats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audible Nectar Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 Stop me before I spend again All this talk about Jupiters.... I want to hear them. I have also been thinking about potential Belle upgrades to go big time on that midrange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Nice job guys. All of the screws are non-magnetic stainless steel. I fill small coils with hot melt, lift the coil a little and let the glue run underneath a bit. I then press down, and fill the hole. After it cools, I drive a screw in. People who like to play with different tweeters usually have a pair of Al's attenuators, so I leave it up to the customer to dial in the tweets. I do try to steer people away from the adjustable l-pad version, which I don't like. If someone doesn't want the add on attenuators, I can solder in a l-pad using high quality resistors -- normally Mills, unless they specify something different. Mike pretty much nailed the deal with the jumpers. The first set went to Craig, and they were a prototype of sorts. Jan's order was in, but I needed to validate some things before I started his build -- and one of those things was the attenuation level for the BMS midrange. I scaled the parts based on 12dB of attenuation, and I was pretty confident with that number. However, Craig called within a day after receiving them to tell me that he thought the midrange was too forward. We were prepared for that possibility, and I had them set up so the midrange connections on the 3670 could be moved to add 3dB of attenuation. This would of course require the addition of a 15 ohm resistor in parallel with the driver to keep the crossover from shifting. Craig and Jan are both at 15dB of attenuation. Right now, I'm debating on whether I should rescale the parts and fix the attenuation level, or just go ahead and leave as is -- offering the two choices and taping a resistor to the board. I'm expecting to be told by Dennis and John (Warren) both to go ahead and actually solder the resistor in and lock it in at -15dB. I asked John to do some measurements for me after sending him a pair of the 3670s, and the results were interesting. After years of battling the idea of l-pads and running resistors in conjunction with autotransformers -- several of the plots showed a clear improvement by using the resistor in parallel with the driver. The plots confirmed what Dennis and Al had both been saying for years. I will leave it to John to post and explain the results of the plots (if he wants). Resistor or not, I would prefer that the attenuation level be "fixed". My preference would be no resistor, and that's based on the wide range of things I've tried over here with my LaScalas. The effect of the resistor may look better on paper, but it just sounds better to me without it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 Thanks for the insights, Dean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick J B Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Oh my, Jupiter flat caps! Thats awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jannegard1 Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 The crossovers are fine , the crossovers sound better and better i think the jupiter caps want some time to burn in volti horns bms drivers and jbl 2404 drivers give me a new klipschorn sound 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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