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Plissken's HT build (The Lucky #7 Theater!)


plissken99

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I wasn't sure whether I should post this here or in Home Theater, as I am using all Pro Audio speakers, so mods feel free to move if necessary. 

 

So here it is, I'm finally starting construction on what I consider to be the ultimate theater room. I'm calling this the Lucky 7 theater because we move around so much this is actually the 7th iteration of the theater room, and we plan to stay put for at least a decade. So much to talk about, so I'll just start rambling!


It will be in the basement of our spanking new house, as you can see from the layout drawing, the HT space is 17x24 in the basement. No annoying support posts in the way, only a support beam, which looks like the projector will need to be mounted behind and under to give an adequate throw ratio for the planned 140" or 150" 16:9 screen with horizontal masking. The screen will be a Seymour acoustically transparent screen(haven't settled on exact material yet). 150" is pushing the brightness of my JVC RS46 projector, even 140" is borderline. I'm trying to decide if I can live with low brightness in the hope that brighter projectors with PQ that equals mine will one day emerge. I was originally planning a 2.35:1 screen, but looking at my Blu Ray collection, less than 40% of the movies are in 2.35 or 2.40, not even counting all the TV Blu Rays which of course are 16:9. A large 16:9 screen with masking makes the most sense, especially considering this is an AT screen, and it doesn't really matter if horizontal masks are acoustically transparent, vertical AT is more difficult.


The screen will be acoustically transparent mounted on a false or baffle wall(undecided) to accommodate three of the glorious KPT-904's you see pictured below(L/R/C), as well as two KPT-884 subwoofers. I'm prewiring for Dolby Atmos 7.2.4! The surrounds will be KPT-1201's and rear surrounds KI-272(same speaker as 1201s in a different box, got a great deal on them). By my calculations the 1st row of seating(three across) will be 13ft from the screen, the 2nd row will be on a riser.


As for the room itself, as you can see I have three windows to deal with, which need to be completely blocked for 100% light control. The one that will be behind the false wall(see last pic) need not be artfully blocked, but the two in the rear must look better, and still be accessible in case of fire. I already prewired everything with 12awg in wall speaker wire, still need to run like 5 cat5e lines into the A/V closet. I've got framers coming next week. I wanted to do that part myself, but with the floating basement walls required here, it's more than I'm willing to bite off myself. Also I'd really like to mount the projector in front of the beam, is there some kind of lens I can get to shorten it's throw that won't break the bank?


As for soundproofing, there will be roxul in the ceiling, and the wall between the theater room and the A/C unit and water heater. I'm debating whether to do a double layer of drywall + green glue on the ceiling, or go with Quietrock. One guy I talked to said with labor costs being considered, QR would actually come out cheaper. So I'm leaning toward that stuff since I'll need to hire people to at least drywall the ceiling anyway. I don't need to go too nuts with soundproofing as the bedrooms are on the 2nd level of the house, and the HT room is under the dining and kitchen area.

All comments and suggestions welcome. smile.gif

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Remember, wire is cheap.  You might not ever biamp whereas I already biamp...so our starting point is different.

 

I wondered if I'd put my amps in the closet (on one side of room) or next to each speaker on the other side?  If by the speaker, I'd need switched power there.

 

I ended up running 2 runs (4 individual strands) of 12g wire for speaker wire.  I ran several (I am thinking 4 per front locatation, left/center/right) XLR wires so I could put the amps up front.  I also ran several RCA wires to each location in case I put a RCA type amp up front.

 

Cat 6 wires, cable wires... 

 

The wife has told me that if we ever have a tornado, she's calling dibbs on hiding in this room as the rest of the house might blow away but the wires I have in here, will be enough to hold this room together.

 

Now that I'm setting things up, I'm using the XLR's and the other wires are currently extra however, once I put the subs up front (if I can pull that off) then I'll need some of the extra XLR wires.

 

I also ran power to each location with 1/2 of the outlet being switched so I can kill the entire system from the room entrance where I have four dedicated switches (one for front left, one for center, one for front right and one for the closet)  Now, if I have an amp at virtually ANY location, it will be on a dedicated circuit (I have four 20 amp circuits)

 

I have a boatload of outlets in the closet. 

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On the main back wall, look at it as four columns.  The left column is dedicated to the front left speaker.  Second column, center.  Third column is dedicated to the front right and the last is for the closet / video.  Each has eight outlets at the bottom and of those, each TOP outlet is switched and each BOTTOM outlet is hot.  I have the 4 switches near the door so you can walk in or out and turn it on or off. 

 

The four dedicated on/off switches are the top row of switches.

 

I put an outlet up high so I could put a shelf OVER the K402 horn and put an amp on top.  I've not needed to do that but, didn't know it at the time.  The wife LOVES that bright clashing orange outlet in her room...  I've got like 540 of them.

 

 

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Well cheap is relative, I'm up to $250 already in speaker wire lol. I can't see a need to go nuts with XLR and RCA wires everywhere, and there are converters should I need to repurpose cables.

 

Still need to decide on lighting. Ideally I want sconces and canned lighting, the sconces being hooked up to a remote control dimmer switch in the A/V closet, the canned lights being able to turn on and off from the door. However I worry about the canned lights being a major point of sound leakage in my soundproofing efforts.

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The size of the room is what sold us on this house! I'd figured somewhere long ago that 24x17 was the ideal size room. When we were pouring over floorplans for houses I saw that exact dimension and my heart skipped a beat lol. It's the 1st of its kind, there was no model to see, I picked it based on the floorplan alone. Amazingly the rest of the house is a perfect fit as well.

The ceiling will be either drywall or this QuiteRock soundproofing stuff. It's pricey, but probably cheaper than a double layer of 5/8ths drywall with green glue when labor is considered.

The ceiling and screen wall will be black, red side walks with big black sconces, it's gonna look badass!

It's heaven starting with a blank canvas. Most of the previous 6 home theaters have been in rent houses, I'd usually line the walls with cheap black material. Never again! :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I got the basement framed out yesterday, it was around $2300 in labor and materials, $1000 in labor. Let me tell you it was worth it, 3 guys did before lunch what would have taken me a month lol, and the finished it in one day, which would have taken me 3 months!

 

Getting really excited now, next step is running the electrical, which I need to start pouring over Youtube videos and tutorials for that.

 

1st pic, view from the screen

2nd, view to the screen

3rd the HT closet

 

The room is bigger than I thought, turns out to be 25.5 x 17.5 when framed!

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Exciting stuff for sure. When we drew up the plans for our home, the HT was going to be 15' x 25'. We ended up buying a home that was 2 months away from being complete and it had a "Media Room" that was 13' x 19'. You will love having the extra width and depth as it will offer more flexibility to what you can do.

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  • 2 months later...

Sorry I haven't updated in a while, everythings been nuts with the holidays, plus those same holidays have slowed things a bit. I've gotten most of the electrical in, with boxes for the sconces and fixtures for the canned lights! I do need to call in the electrician to run a dedicated 20amp line for the A/V equipment, plus he'll also be running a 220 line for future air conditioning. Then just need to get HVAC done and I can start getting quotes for drywall.

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Its funny I have my whole room on one 15 and have never tripped it up. But a hair dryer can depending on what else's is going in the house. 

 

I run a pretty good amount of things off that one 15. 3svs sub amps, a power amp with added cooling, an avr, a projector, and blu ray player.  With those pro speakers your not going to be using much power. Maybe a few watts for each speaker. Depending on the bass your looking for. It could be a bigger draw then I have with two 800watt and one 1000 watt amps. I probably use half that. With peaks of 3/4 of it (as a guess). 

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Its funny I have my whole room on one 15 and have never tripped it up. But a hair dryer can depending on what else's is going in the house.

I run a pretty good amount of things off that one 15. 3svs sub amps, a power amp with added cooling, an avr, a projector, and blu ray player. With those pro speakers your not going to be using much power. Maybe a few watts for each speaker. Depending on the bass your looking for. It could be a bigger draw then I have with two 800watt and one 1000 watt amps. I probably use half that. With peaks of 3/4 of it (as a guess).

I would rather be safe then sorry. Rule of thumb, would be never exceeding 80 percent of the rated load. Plus there are less items on the circuit that could introduce noise. Again I have a freezer on the same circuit that my system is plugged into. And haven't had any noise issues. But I don't want to find out.
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  • 2 months later...

Sorry I haven't updated this in a while, been getting boring stuff done. Electrical, HVAC and plumbing is finished. I've been organizing the wire to try and make it easy to access.

End of next week I'm gonna start getting the roxul insulation in the ceiling and side walls!

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