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68uf CAP options on CW2 crossover?


bsacco1

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RE: acoustic panels? Do you have an example of what you mean by acoustic panel? Where do you find these? 

 

Is it the same as just finding non-backed fiberglass strip and wrap it in fabric and staple it to the inside of the speaker?

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Jeff Glowacki of Soniccraft designed the Sonicap. He does not recommend its use for horns, or any metallized capacitor if you're going for the best sound possible -- and I am in agreement with him. The network is the heart of the loudspeaker. It deserves better than $58.00.

 

 

I suspect that this will start to get as clear as mud for the OP; however, I guess if a person is going for the “best sound” I believe that I understand where you may be coming from on that with the PIO caps.  Although, if I’m remembering correctly, I believe that the old Auricaps may have been some type of “metalized polypropylene” and the last time I heard the Auricaps capacitors, they sounded pretty darn good in a crossover network.   

 

I’m not sure if the OP can find anything that is 68uF that isn’t a metalized polypropylene foil capacitor or the electrolytic capacitors.  The four caps that I suggested are all metalized polypropylene; however, if the OP wanted to splurge and spend more, he could go smaller and add a film & foil by-pass cap, or even a PIO cap as a by-pass.  I did see where ALK has been using the Audyn caps in one of his CornScala crossover networks.

 

Are you still OK with the better “film & foil” capacitors or are you moving away from those in addition to the metallized film capacitors?

 

For the 68uF capacitor in question, it would seem that since it would be used in a subjectively less critical position in the crossover network with the capacitor being in parallel on the woofer as a shunt, along with the inductor in series to attenuate and roll-off high frequencies and pass low frequencies to the woofer vs. the series connected capacitors used with the midrange driver and tweeter driver. 

 

Do you have a view on the different dielectric materials such as polypropylene or polyester?

 

Personally, I would look for something better for the 3uF capacitor that is used in series to the midrange driver and the two 1.5uF capacitors that are used in series with the tweeter driver.

 

Did you get a chance to listen to the Mundorf aluminum and oil capacitors when you built a pair of the SuperX crossover networks with those capacitors?   

 

I’ve been imagining what a pair of SuperX may sound like with the EVO aluminum and oil for the woofer and the EVO silver/gold/oil for the midrange and tweeter.   

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I am intrigued by this thread. I have some AL-3's that could use some freshening up. I may do some experimenting. I would likely use a normal foil for the 68, and go for some higher end caps for the three 2uF caps and run a 10 and 3uF for the 13uF. 

 

OP. I have been using these 3 LaScalas with original caps for over a year happily. You might want to run yours for a while before you spend a bunch of money. You still need to get that port tuning done... :)

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LOL, I priced everything but the 68uF's to redo 3 AL-3's with Mundorf Silver/Gold/Oil. Check it out:

 

 

In making that kind of investment, it sure makes it worthwhile to watch for their 20% off sale.

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You can buy high quality 2uF film and tin foils for about $20. You can get a 12uF for about $60. So, $240 to recap some AL-3s with some great sounding capacitors. But, hey, $58 sounds so much better. The 68uF can be a Dayton, which actually sounds better than a Sonicap in these loudspeakers. But again, why use a metallized cap in the shunt position when you can use a $1 electrolytic that does the same. Paper and oils by Jensen and the Jupiters sound even better, but God forbid we actually promote investing some money into these big horns.

I'm sorry to say, but what most here are known for is being mostly deaf. Just go to any other forum and read what they say about this place. What used to be "A Legend in Sound" is now "Loud and Cheap". Most of the audiophiles left the premises long ago, and for good reason.

Due to health reasons, I'm getting ready to turn most of what I do over to my son, Austin. I'll be handling the PIO and Jupiter builds, because I'm not really interested in building anything else. I don't think it's all that outrageous to spend $875.00 on a pair of crossovers for loudspeakers that are now selling for almost $10K.

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Jeff Glowacki of Soniccraft designed the Sonicap. He does not recommend its use for horns, or any metallized capacitor if you're going for the best sound possible -- and I am in agreement with him. The network is the heart of the loudspeaker. It deserves better than $58.00.

 

Ditto

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You can buy high quality 2uF film and tin foils for about $20. You can get a 12uF for about $60. So, $240 to recap some AL-3s with some great sounding capacitors. But, hey, $58 sounds so much better. The 68uF can be a Dayton, which actually sounds better than a Sonicap in these loudspeakers. But again, why use a metallized cap in the shunt position when you can use a $1 electrolytic that does the same. Paper and oils by Jensen and the Jupiters sound even better, but God forbid we actually promote investing some money into these big horns.

I'm sorry to say, but what most here are known for is being mostly deaf. Just go to any other forum and read what they say about this place. What used to be "A Legend in Sound" is now "Loud and Cheap". Most of the audiophiles left the premises long ago, and for good reason.

Due to health reasons, I'm getting ready to turn most of what I do over to my son, Austin. I'll be handling the PIO and Jupiter builds, because I'm not really interested in building anything else. I don't think it's all that outrageous to spend $875.00 on a pair of crossovers for loudspeakers that are now selling for almost $10K.

 

Nobody was attacking your crossovers Dean, and yes, your crossovers are worth it.  If my joking about the $8500 caps came across that way, it was not intended.  I also didn't even look at the schematic for the 68 uF :unsure: (never owned cornwalls)

 

Can't say I agree with the Audiophile thing though.  I have settled on a system and am pretty much done making changes until I am older and maybe can retire and play around with projects again, but I like the company here. 

 

I remember on the B&W forum years ago, it got to the point that I could not stomach it.  If the salesman told these guys something, it was gospel.  So every time a manufacturer released a new product, time to trade in last years model and but the new one because it is that much better and the older model was instantly inferior and not worth owning.  Any of course no horn was worth owning because 1 guy on the forum heard a set of Heresys when he was 17 hooked up to a Kracko radio in the back of an El Camino after they ate a bag of mushrooms.

 

The resident expert (because his system was expensive, that was the only reason) was pontificating about how some pieces of granite that I had as bases worked, saying how "the high specific gravity of such a material will blah blah blah"  My response to his 2 paragraphs was "Yea, granite is heavy"

 

I like the Lansing forum, but have not been there in years.

 

Sorry to hear about the health issues, but do what you are inclined to do.  Just build the stuff that excites you and makes you happy.  Spending some time on a project that you are enthusiastic about is so good for the sole.  I always feel energized when I get my hands dirty. 

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I didn't think anyone was "attacking" my crossovers. My rant was instigated by the constant barrage of posts on this forum that recommend capacitors that make these loudspeakers sound like earbleeders - at least to the people that still have most of their hearing intact.

Mobilehomeless (Kelly) single handily elevated the quality of this forum. He pushed tube gear and higher quality parts. Because of Kelly, we ended up with NosValves, and to some degree, Juicy Music Audio and my business too. A better suggestion would be to examine the state of the forum before he showed up - which is almost where it is now.

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