Mystery Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 (edited) I bought this RW-10D as is and it does not turn on. Fuse is good. I checked power inside the plate amp and it does have power up to the first connection. I didn't check after that as I'm not sure where and what to check. However, I did hear a faint thud when the power was turned on. I fried my multimeter soon after that. I switched mode to check continuity and forgot to switch back to A/C mode. Now the multimeter just flashes number in all modes even without connecting anything. Plate amp looks brand new. I can't see any resistor or cap burnt or even dark. Capacitors look fine. One inductor (or transformer) by power input) looks dark but not sure if it's like that or that's what burnt transformer looks like. The wires on it looks okay though. I took the ribbon connectors and put them back in snug fit so not sure what the issue is. The digital display on top doesn't light up. When I put amp back, I found some white stuff on my finger so may be something is leaking. What say you? thanks Edited October 29, 2014 by Mystery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Now the multimeter just flashes number in all modes even without connecting anything. They have fuses too, you might check. Most issues are with the plate amp itself. I can't really tell you what goes bad in them though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mystery Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 Now the multimeter just flashes number in all modes even without connecting anything. They have fuses too, you might check. Most issues are with the plate amp itself. I can't really tell you what goes bad in them though. You mean fuses on the multimeter? It's el'cheapo one so not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 You mean fuses on the multimeter? Yes. Most have internal replaceable fuses inside the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mystery Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 (edited) I have a smaller plate amp but that won't work with the digital display so not going to work. I'll put it for sale as is instead of getting new amp. I have quite a few subwoofers already. BTW, does it work without the digital display turned on or it has to be on all the time? I should test it by sending some signal first I guess. Also, do you suggest it using with a smaller 120w rms bypassing the amp? Thanks Edited October 30, 2014 by Mystery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mystery Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 I sold it cheap to someone who has the same sub but bad driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschsonian Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 I would check the speaker by itself. The amp probably was hit by lightning. Is the sub stiffer than normal like no cone movement. Could be a fried sub voicecoil would take a serious amount of power or current to due that on these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschsonian Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 I have one I bought form someone with the same problem, It turned on and would pop and make static type noises which seemed like a bad ground. I regrounded the connections, put another fuse holder in still same problem so I put the sub in my rear ported KLH enclosure I redid with an Infinity amp. I put the RW-10 in that enclosure and it rocks out. It sounds 100x better than that KLH sub. So I concluded something was fried or a bad circuit on the Klipsch amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 So I concluded something was fried or a bad circuit on the Klipsch amp. Better conclusion than hit by lightning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overload Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 I bought one of these included in a 'bundle' for $50.... I ended up with a Pioneer Elite Receiver with a high end Pioneer DVD unit with one of these Subs along with a monster power 1600.... Crazy deal for $50!!! And believe it or not both of the remotes were included😁👍 bu I had the same issue... My Klipsch sub would not power up, fuse was definitely fried so I ordered a few new ones. I did however pull the speaker itself from the box and tested it and it sounded GREAT! in a different enclosure... I will wait for the fuses and try the original again but if its more then the fuse I think ill skip trying to get any deeper with it and use the driver itself in another enclosure. Bottom line sometimes all the adjustment is great....BUT....... Still love it tho!👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 On 10/18/2019 at 11:14 AM, overload said: I bought one of these included in a 'bundle' for $50.... I ended up with a Pioneer Elite Receiver with a high end Pioneer DVD unit with one of these Subs along with a monster power 1600.... Crazy deal for $50!!! And believe it or not both of the remotes were included😁👍 bu I had the same issue... My Klipsch sub would not power up, fuse was definitely fried so I ordered a few new ones. I did however pull the speaker itself from the box and tested it and it sounded GREAT! in a different enclosure... I will wait for the fuses and try the original again but if its more then the fuse I think ill skip trying to get any deeper with it and use the driver itself in another enclosure. Bottom line sometimes all the adjustment is great....BUT....... Still love it tho!👍 best of luck on the new fuse... but most likely its not going to fix it. fuses blow for a reason so putting a new one in will probably just blow again. i went through the same thing with the 12" version recently. the issue is the amp itself goes bad (like sooo many other klipsch sub amps) i tried replacing a common bad capacitor on these & after further research i found its usuallly the yelllow glue they use all over on the board, it goes bad & becomes conductive causing shorts in the amp. & its more invoolved that just scraping it off, i tried that as well. there are some places that will repair the amp for about $150-$200, or you can buy a plate amp from parts express & swap out the power section that bolts right in to the klipsch plate or use the entire PE amp with a little mod to the sub box. or, if you have a modern receiver with sub x-over controls you can just run a separate amp to it. these are/were decent subs but the plate amps klipsch uses are prone to failure way to much for me to buy any of their subs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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