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v-w passat help needed


H-D Rider

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Oh....... newtune I won't be much help but I'll tell you this. I just looked at my alldata system and the throttle control system diagnostics is quite complex for the VW's.

You know, maybe you should find a small shop or someone that knows VW's. I run a small Honda/Acura shop and I will get cars from other shops that they can't seem to fix. I have been with Honda for 27+ years so that is my "nitch".

So you might run into a WV guy that's knows just what the problem is.....cuz that's what he does.

I tell ya......I do NOT work on any European cars........no oil changes.....no brake jobs.....nada.....cuz the engineering is so different.

I'm not here to bash your WV my man..........

Quick question... what scanner are you using? You said you had a laptop.....how is that connected to the obd II? What system is it?

Good luck my man :-)

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There is this old Ford story about a Ford electronic engineer that was driving his new Ford and it quit running on the highway.

He got out of the car and started walking to his destination knowing full well he couldn't fix the problem without a shop full

of diagnostic equipment. Moral of the story is if you can't find a squirrel living in a nest under the hood then take it to the shop

to be fixed.

JJK

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Sounds like the TPS (Throttle position sensor) needs to be programed. I'm not sure what else needs to be done before this but I do remember it involved slowly pushing down on the gas peddle when the car is not running.

 

For clearing the error code and not knowing much else about the car I'm working on, I used to disconnect the battery for about 20-min and see where that goes.
 

But, yea, my scanner would clear the code if it's a Global code OBD II. But on some cars it could be a matter of holding in a couple of buttons at the same time before turning the key to Position II (run position).

 

Edited by Mighty Favog
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Oh....... newtune I won't be much help but I'll tell you this. I just looked at my alldata system and the throttle control system diagnostics is quite complex for the VW's.

You know, maybe you should find a small shop or someone that knows VW's. I run a small Honda/Acura shop and I will get cars from other shops that they can't seem to fix. I have been with Honda for 27+ years so that is my "nitch".

So you might run into a WV guy that's knows just what the problem is.....cuz that's what he does.

I tell ya......I do NOT work on any European cars........no oil changes.....no brake jobs.....nada.....cuz the engineering is so different.

I'm not here to bash your WV my man..........

Quick question... what scanner are you using? You said you had a laptop.....how is that connected to the obd II? What system is it?

Good luck my man :-)

 

Wish you were close to me. I just found a TSB about my steering wheel remote radio controls not giving the correct command to the radio. Something about taking apart the steering column but oddly enough not replacing the button/switch unit on my 03' Acura TL-S.

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For clearing the error code and not knowing much else about the car I'm working on, I used to disconnect the battery for about 20-min and see where that goes.

 

Once you have BOTH cables disconnected, all you have to do is touch them together for about 10 seconds or so.  That will discharge all capacitors in all the modules and clear all memory.  It's a lot quicker.

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P1545 is the code which means your TPS is malfunctioning. 

 

Since your car is running poorly it sounds like this problem still exists, or perhaps you have rotated the sensor if you removed it and reinstalled it.

 

What have you done to try to fix the actual malfunction?

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P1545 is the code which means your TPS is malfunctioning. Since your car is running poorly it sounds like this problem still exists, or perhaps you have rotated the sensor if you removed it and reinstalled it.

 

From what I've read, this can also occur after a battery replacement, it loses memory and needs to be taught what position it's in.

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Thanks to all , This all started from a dead battery . I have tried all that every one has suggested , but I have not bought the V.a.g. - com program yet . That is next , but first I thought I might talk to a v-w guy That`s in the know .  It is a throttle re- learn problem .   I will up date when I get it fixed . I like fixing thing `s  for better or worse . 

Edited by newtune
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Dead battery? Interesting. The voltage supplying a TPS isn't the same as the reporting voltage, although they are related. If your new battery has a stronger voltage, then it stands to reason the TPS, which is a variable resistor of sorts, would report higher voltage as well. The idle voltage is the important one. Everything else is automatic. Typically you can go into the ECU and set the idle minimum to just above the reported voltage, and you are done. 

 

For this, you need software to set that level. If this TPS is adjustable, if you can rotate it, then you can retard it and see if that gets the idle reporting voltage below the idle setting in the ECU.

 

The thing that bothers me about this whole thing is that it has lost power and has poor performance. The TPS idle setting should not have any effect on this. A TPS that is crapping out would.

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The thing that bothers me about this whole thing is that it has lost power and has poor performance. The TPS idle setting should not have any effect on this. A TPS that is crapping out would.

 

It's just not an idle setting.  If the ECM doesn't know where the throttle is, it's not going to run right.

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The thing that bothers me about this whole thing is that it has lost power and has poor performance. The TPS idle setting should not have any effect on this. A TPS that is crapping out would.

 

It's just not an idle setting.  If the ECM doesn't know where the throttle is, it's not going to run right.

 

There are two settings for the TPS in a given ECU. Idle and WOT. Setting the idle in the ECU to just above where it is listed in resting position tells the ECU that everything below that voltage is idle. The WOT is the same in reverse. You mash the AP to the floor and set the WOT parameter just below that voltage. Anything above that voltage is telling the ECU you are flooring it. The rest is done by algorithms applied to those fixed variables as well as settings like the speed at which the AP is being pressed so you can tell the tranny to kick to a lower gear before normal TPS and RPM would apply it.

 

The reason I said the idle was the only setting in this vehicle was that the voltage supplied by the VW TPS is consistent. If you set the idle up, you are done, or you get another TPS. If there is an application that can reprogram the ECU, then you can adjust all of those settings I mentioned earlier. I have done extensive work programming ECU's from scratch with fuel maps, spark maps, as well as programming stand alone transmission controllers. 

 

Bad connections or faulty wiring, detached ground wire somewhere in the harness, all could also be the issue. It might not be the TPS. I like Deoxit and contact cleaner with sensors which report variable low voltage. Most important of all is a multimeter.

Edited by mustang guy
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