Max2 Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Thanks for posting, beautiful work ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Agreed, beautiful! Staying tuned for more. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Wow! Very nice! I'd consider going without veneer on the sides. I think the curved walls could look wonderful if you are able to clean them up enough. All the layers of ply might look pretty good exposed! https://img1.etsystatic.com/000/0/6692015/il_fullxfull.312329085.jpg +1 on the idea of going without veneer and just staining and finishing the sides. IMHO, it makes for a very nice 'finish'. Found this picture on a Google search. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 I have seen pics of raw birch plywood enclosures where the wood was stacked like the TS's project, and they look great IMO. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muel Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Wow! Very nice! I'd consider going without veneer on the sides. I think the curved walls could look wonderful if you are able to clean them up enough. All the layers of ply might look pretty good exposed! https://img1.etsystatic.com/000/0/6692015/il_fullxfull.312329085.jpg +1 on the idea of going without veneer and just staining and finishing the sides. IMHO, it makes for a very nice 'finish'. Found this picture on a Google search. Oh yeah! That's what I'm talking about! Look at that... not a bit of wave in that finish! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 just playing Lego to see how it looks like, nothing is glued yet: I hope you modeled it in Hornresp before this serious "bleeding edge" commitment on your part. wow. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arash Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 AWESOME! thanks man Very nice sir! Can't wait to see the final product! thank you as well. I'm happy you people like the idea of building such a speaker Amazing work Arash. I'm eager to see more. thanks Wow! Very nice! I'd consider going without veneer on the sides. I think the curved walls could look wonderful if you are able to clean them up enough. All the layers of ply might look pretty good exposed! https://img1.etsystatic.com/000/0/6692015/il_fullxfull.312329085.jpg thanks, I considered that too but you know what, urethane glue leaves a dirty trace on the baltic birch. actually they couldn't be sanded to wipe out. after all there is no problem. the final option for veneering is buying some polyurethane bag from US and make another vacuum bag press, then I'll practice some times on other parts and when I feel I can go ahead, I'll apply veneers. Arash, Looking at your pictures brings back memories of my attempt to hand build a center horn based on the Oris curve. Lots of work as you well know. In my case, it was a huge waste of time and some good 18mm baltic birch. The horn looked nice, but sounded terrible for a center channel. I'm sure my 'design' was very flawed. Rudy. your project was very interesting but maybe that horn profile won't work in that shape. you could try a spherical version. I'll do more work on that kind of horn with some ballnose on CNC in near future Thanks for posting, beautiful work ! thanks for promoting me Wow! Very nice! I'd consider going without veneer on the sides. I think the curved walls could look wonderful if you are able to clean them up enough. All the layers of ply might look pretty good exposed! https://img1.etsystatic.com/000/0/6692015/il_fullxfull.312329085.jpg +1 on the idea of going without veneer and just staining and finishing the sides. IMHO, it makes for a very nice 'finish'. Found this picture on a Google search. you know BB is beautifull but we have a lot of far more beautiful veneers I can't sleep nights when I imagine "Anahita" is wearing them! I have a laser router I may use it for cutting veneers for inside of dog-house. the outer side of the speaker is easy to apply veneer. I have seen pics of raw birch plywood enclosures where the wood was stacked like the TS's project, and they look great IMO. thanks for the idea. I'll take a look 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arash Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 (edited) Wow! Very nice! I'd consider going without veneer on the sides. I think the curved walls could look wonderful if you are able to clean them up enough. All the layers of ply might look pretty good exposed! https://img1.etsystatic.com/000/0/6692015/il_fullxfull.312329085.jpg +1 on the idea of going without veneer and just staining and finishing the sides. IMHO, it makes for a very nice 'finish'. Found this picture on a Google search. Oh yeah! That's what I'm talking about! Look at that... not a bit of wave in that finish! yeah that thing looks gorgeous just playing Lego to see how it looks like, nothing is glued yet: I hope you modeled it in Hornresp before this serious "bleeding edge" commitment on your part. wow. I haven't. a friend of mine did. the whole plan was also seen by a nice guy from Canada (who designed Vittora bassbin) he stated "you are pretty close". after that we tweaked with hornresp and we think this will work. Hornresp? I'm working on it. Edited December 11, 2014 by Arash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arash Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 (edited) top hat side walls assembly: there is a bigger slice in the chain that I will sit on another slice stock on the top and floor plates with t-nuts: there are also 10mm longer pins on the side wall that will assure they will sit just in place on the floor plate. needless to say there are holes on the plates as well: Edited December 10, 2014 by Arash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arash Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 putting part together to check if they fit easily: check ✓ thanks for watching 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbox Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Its going to look real nice in my living room. As someone else I know would say "Top Notch". 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Arsh, if I may ask, why are you using the polyurethane glue? I would expect your plywood pieces to be flat and easy to glue with carpenter's glue, making the void filling glue not necessary. I personally hate working with the poly glue due to how messy it is and how much it stains wood. I only use it when I need voids filled. Just curious. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arash Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 (edited) Its going to look real nice in my living room. As someone else I know would say "Top Notch". who knows maybe I can offer it for sale for a reasonable price and everybody can have a pair. I'm not saying I'll certainly offer it for sale for I may consider it. you know it's hard to build specially with slice method we use which will result in a very precise and accurate geometric shape but if we go the laminating way, it would be also cheaper Edited December 11, 2014 by Arash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arash Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 Arsh, if I may ask, why are you using the polyurethane glue? I would expect your plywood pieces to be flat and easy to glue with carpenter's glue, making the void filling glue not necessary. I personally hate working with the poly glue due to how messy it is and how much it stains wood. I only use it when I need voids filled. Just curious. I know what are you talking about. this glue is so nasty. it's been my hands companion during past 10 days! I hope it will vanish soon as I say prayers night after night. yes using PVA glue is much easier and leaves no trace. it's easy to sand (urethane is also good in sanding) but I wanted the best option. urethane is water resistance and this makes me feel good while listening to speaker even though I'm sitting in Sahara after all all parts will be sanded and veneered and the internal parts will be painted stained black. who care about traces? if it's well-sanded, there will be no trace at all. look at this cabinet we built today. it's also urethane glue and it looks really nice: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 The first time I used the poly glue and got it all over my hands, I learned to always use gloves when working with that stuff. Took over a week for that stuff to totally leave my hands. Basically, you have to sand it off, or wait until it falls off your hands along with dead skin. Just nasty! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kodomo Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 Hey Arash! What happened with your beautiful project? Keep us updated, it was going so good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arash Posted December 23, 2014 Author Share Posted December 23, 2014 (edited) Hey Arash! What happened with your beautiful project? Keep us updated, it was going so good. Hi there actually I'm on vacation for some days now. I'll be back to the work next week. the whole outer walls are done and I'll get down to dog-house. I'll keep you updated about the progress. for now it's the last picture I took with all the parts except grill and dog-house and top section back door: has anybody seen this British builder who builds a Belle-like speaker with Eliptical mid-horn with a B&C 2" driver and a 10500 pounds price tag. more info here I bet there is a CW1526 woof in there and an ALK network. seems he veneers everything before assembly! Edited December 25, 2014 by Arash 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 (edited) I bet there is a CW1526 woof in there The review on the site says he uses Eminence woofers and B&C compression drivers. And Al K. designed the crossovers. A quote from the reviewers interview: “All the time I was working on these things I had a pair of Klipsch Belles I had bought but not listened to, so one night I put them on and found a direct nature that appealed. They were different to designs of the same period from the UK; there was something in there that was more engaging, faster. However, the mid horn was metal and ringy, and so I started exploring and found a few folks in USA who were working with the old Klipsch designs with new crossovers, horns and drivers. It was all too tempting and I ended up buying and trying all sort of combinations. In the end it was a particular wooden tractrix design of horn that really took me and that’s what I use today. Nothing of the original Belle design remains in the Uccellos. The bass horn is similar, and that’s all, but I wanted to maintain the look of what I consider to be a beautiful original design and pay homage to the inspiration that Paul Klipsch’s work gave me.” I'm really looking forward to the completion of your speakers. It's nice to know there is a semblance of normal life in your country. Bruce Edited December 23, 2014 by Marvel 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arash Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 I bet there is a CW1526 woof in there The review on the site says he uses Eminence woofers and B&C compression drivers. And Al K. designed the crossovers. A quote from the reviewers interview: “All the time I was working on these things I had a pair of Klipsch Belles I had bought but not listened to, so one night I put them on and found a direct nature that appealed. They were different to designs of the same period from the UK; there was something in there that was more engaging, faster. However, the mid horn was metal and ringy, and so I started exploring and found a few folks in USA who were working with the old Klipsch designs with new crossovers, horns and drivers. It was all too tempting and I ended up buying and trying all sort of combinations. In the end it was a particular wooden tractrix design of horn that really took me and that’s what I use today. Nothing of the original Belle design remains in the Uccellos. The bass horn is similar, and that’s all, but I wanted to maintain the look of what I consider to be a beautiful original design and pay homage to the inspiration that Paul Klipsch’s work gave me.” I'm really looking forward to the completion of your speakers. It's nice to know there is a semblance of normal life in your country. Bruce that looks great. I'm sure they sound amazing with Dave's Eliptrac and AL's state of art networks. I don't like Belle because of it's width but sure it will be good for many horn lovers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arash Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 (edited) nowdays we are working on some speakers that are gonna be used in Yanni concert which will take place in next few months in Tehran and I have no time to work on this project. all parts except dog-house is ready and I'm working on a big vacuum press table to use for veneering. it's been many years we have vacuum pump in store but it's the first time I want to use it for veneering complicated shapes. today I put 1-2 hours working on a prototype vacuum bag to see the process up close and personal. first I bought some vinyl. I wanted to use 30mil vinyl but I noticed the thicker, the harder to work with so I went for 25mil. it's 71" width and the roll is 150 feet. I bought it for 77USD/roll! super cheap ain't it? I never built sealed plastic bags so I used my instinct. I cut the edge some inches to reach to the clean part of the roll: I built this stem valve out of what was available in shop. cut the washers by hand. I'll build the final valve with brace turning on a lathe but in due time: this is our vacuum pump. a ~350pound monster with a 8HP motor which sucks the air 141cubic feet/minute with +98% of vacuum level. it's way more than adequate for veneering: I tried s small piece of veneer on a MDF. it's really amazing. I have to practice some time to get ready for veneering speakers: the exit (entry?) of our vacuum pump is 2.5inch in diameter. we will build a table with a big cubic bag to be able to put big objects in it. the final stem valve will be 2.5inch in diameter! I don't want to reduce the air passage at all. take a look at this interesting photo. have you seen monstrous Selenium D4400Ti CD? Edited January 4, 2015 by Arash 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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