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Circuit Diagram for Phihong PSM36W-201 Power Supply?


rjmusto

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Just in case it is useful to someone:

 

I have fixed the PSU. Never did find a circuit diagram, but it was a simple fault in the end.  The smoothing electrolytic capacitor for the 3843 chip was dried out. Replacing this component brought the supply back to life.

 

Fairly easy fix if your competent with a soldering iron.

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  • 3 weeks later...

One follow-up pice of information that may be useful:

 

This particular model of the iGroove is an early example and it would seem it relies solely on the Firewire port to charge the iPod. It is therefore not compatible with the newer iPods, as these only charge through the USB connection.  

 

It also concerns me a little that the iGroove puts out 18v on this Firewire connection, when the spec for it is 12v. Although I think the early forms of Firewire had a bigger tolerance, so maybe its ok.

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  • 1 month later...

I just had a similar issues and just because you had posted an update to your issues, I checked the electrolytic capacitor and found it to be dried. I had completely overlooked it earlier, thinking that what could possibly happen to it. Replace it and my power supply is fully functional again. Thank you and keep up the good work. 

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  • 1 month later...

Klipsch iGroove HG model 1006519 power supply is a PHIHONG PSM36W-201

Can usually be repaired by replacing the small 100 uf 35 volt electrolytic capacitor C4 (next to the top of the large electrolytic capacitor)

See the PSM36W-201.jpg file attached. Observe correct polarity. Negative is toward the more open area on the circuit board.

100uf, 50 volt is okay. $1.50 at Radio Shack. The connector pinout is two ground pins closest to cord. +18 V on left top, -18 V on right top (with cord aimed down) All you need is a small soldering iron, solder sucker, and a bit of solder. Good luck.

post-61147-0-78760000-1429826558_thumb.j

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  • 1 month later...

Hot Damn!!

 

My Bose SoundDock has been sitting around, broken, for a few years now. Saw this thread, popped open the power supply, replaced C4 with one I had sitting around and viola!! It lives to play on. Thanks for sharing this info. The picture was a big help - it made me realise this was the same PS used in the Bose unit.

 

Thanks to all for the help!

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  • 2 months later...

I have signed up to advise UK users that if you are not handy enough at electronics to follow all the instructions in this thread, then you can simply source a replacement for the Phihong power brick from UK eBay seller acadaptors_r_us

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400944088084?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Make sure you buy the UK Clover plug lead for the adaptor as well - the link above includes it (they have other listings which don't include this cable - i.e. just the power brick itself)

 

 

I just received mine, and am now really glad that I didn't throw my iGroove away after the PhiHong power brick packed up. Great sound for my iPod again !

 

 

Disclaimer: I am not connected to the seller in any way :)

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  • 3 months later...

Klipsch iGroove HG model 1006519 power supply is a PHIHONG PSM36W-201

Can usually be repaired by replacing the small 100 uf 35 volt electrolytic capacitor C4 (next to the top of the large electrolytic capacitor)

See the PSM36W-201.jpg file attached. Observe correct polarity. Negative is toward the more open area on the circuit board.

100uf, 50 volt is okay. $1.50 at Radio Shack. The connector pinout is two ground pins closest to cord. +18 V on left top, -18 V on right top (with cord aimed down) All you need is a small soldering iron, solder sucker, and a bit of solder. Good luck.

 

Hi all, same problem here but having 0 experience or knowledge on how to even troubleshoot to see if my C4 capacitor is the fault I would like to ask you guys for help. I do have a multimeter at home and if I figure out what to fix I can definitely run out to grab a soldering iron and the required components.

 

I popped the adapter open and that's where I'm sitting at right now.

 

Thank you.

 

Edited by Pepi
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  • 4 months later...

Thank you very much guys!

I was about to buy another power supply for my Bose RoomMate (1st gen, I guess), and I found out that it had the same Phihong circuit board and the very same problem!

I fixed it with a few euros.  :)

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  • 1 month later...

Klipsch iGroove HG model 1006519 power supply is a PHIHONG PSM36W-201

Can usually be repaired by replacing the small 100 uf 35 volt electrolytic capacitor C4 (next to the top of the large electrolytic capacitor)

See the PSM36W-201.jpg file attached. Observe correct polarity. Negative is toward the more open area on the circuit board.

100uf, 50 volt is okay. $1.50 at Radio Shack. The connector pinout is two ground pins closest to cord. +18 V on left top, -18 V on right top (with cord aimed down) All you need is a small soldering iron, solder sucker, and a bit of solder. Good luck.

Great review of this issue and repair instructions were spot on. Thank you for making this an easy and inexpensive repair. God Bless!

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Klipsch iGroove HG model 1006519 power supply is a PHIHONG PSM36W-201

Can usually be repaired by replacing the small 100 uf 35 volt electrolytic capacitor C4 (next to the top of the large electrolytic capacitor)

See the PSM36W-201.jpg file attached. Observe correct polarity. Negative is toward the more open area on the circuit board.

100uf, 50 volt is okay. $1.50 at Radio Shack. The connector pinout is two ground pins closest to cord. +18 V on left top, -18 V on right top (with cord aimed down) All you need is a small soldering iron, solder sucker, and a bit of solder. Good luck.

I think the C4 is my problem also.  However, when I opened up the ps, I could not see "C4" on the circuit board.  Can someone use the picture posted above and circle which one it is?  I am no techie, but willing to give it a try.  It is not working, so why not.  Mine is the Bose psm36w-201 which appears to be the same as the Klipsch. 

 

 

Update:  I have found and replaced the C4 with the radio shack capacitor.  I now have power to the sounddock and the ipod shows that it is getting power, but I have no sound.  Thanks for the posts as at least I have a working ps.

Edited by stive
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  • 2 months later...

Finally got around to fixing this. I can confirm that it is the C4 Capacitor, regardless if you see it visibly burst or leaking. Mine looked completely fine but I followed the instructions from this post and changed it. Purchased a soldering kit from amazon for $30 and a set of 10 x 100uf, 50 volt capacitors also from amazon for like $2.

 

I have 0 experience with soldering and managed to fix it on the first attempt so pretty much anyone can do it.

 

Everything works fine though I'm not sure how hot the power supply normally gets because I never cared to check before it stopped working. Perhaps someone can confirm that it's warm to the touch and even warmer when in use...but not too warm that I can't comfortably hold it with my entire hand for as long as I want.

 

Thanks to drueppel and anyone else who contributed in helping others repair their power supply.

 

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  • 6 months later...

Hi,

My search for a repair to my Bose sound dock power supply led me here. I can confirm that a working unit gets pretty warm to the touch if left with the power on. 

I think I'm up to the repair described above but...

How do I open the ******* thing??? I tried peeling off the sticker to look for screws and even that was a challenge. (There are no screws btw)

 

I'm ready for a d'oh moment here...

20170326_124136.jpg

20170326_124253.jpg

Edited by strapless
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OK, faced with the fact that not being able to open it was going to cost me about $40 anyway for a new power supply I decided to get a bit brutal with it. Hammer a flat blade screwdriver 'gently' into one end and virtually break the unit open. I dont think there is another way really. I will have to reglue/tape-up the casing though.

 

So yes, the repair worked exactly as described. Nothing apparent wrong with the capacitor but replacing it fixed the problem.

 

FWIW I used a 63V capacitor from Jaycar in australia that cost 95cents.  

 

Thankyou new forum buddies!

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks to this forum I was able to get my speaker working again after many years of it sitting around. The C4 capacitor which you can tell once you have cracked open the case can be easily found underneath/beside the capacitor as it is labled on the board in small font. If you still can't find it look for a small black/grey capacitor that reads 100uf, 25v on the side. Mine was slightly bent and bubbled on top, I also replaced mine with the 100uf, 63V listed above from jaycar in Australia. Big thanks to everyone. I was minutes away from buying the psu from eBay.

Ps. Only had a basic to minimal knowledge in electronic. Just did a few google searches. 

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  • 6 years later...
On 3/26/2017 at 4:03 AM, strapless said:

OK, faced with the fact that not being able to open it was going to cost me about $40 anyway for a new power supply I decided to get a bit brutal with it. Hammer a flat blade screwdriver 'gently' into one end and virtually break the unit open. I dont think there is another way really. I will have to reglue/tape-up the casing though.

 

Hey, I know this is an old thread,  but once you got your unit open do you still think it could not be opened without busting it?

Edited by messagebearer
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