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Klipsch Crossovers


rebuy

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I'm obviously biased towards my own language. Please quote the sections of my response where you feel I am diminishing your value as a human being or intelligence.

 

All I see is that I've pointed your speakers are inadequate for the pursuit of "sonic tweaking" through upgrades to components, specifically in this case your crossovers. I've never once made a derogatory remark towards you or any perceived socioeconomic status and unless you can quote me otherwise, I would very much appreciate an apology.

 

I don't care how much you spend on your audio gear. I don't care what you like. I don't care what you don't like. I was simply trying to convey the limitations of your inexpensive (when compared to all of Klipsch's offerings, not your own personal bias towards inexpensive/expensive) speakers.

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I'm obviously biased towards my own language. Please quote the sections of my response where you feel I am diminishing your value as a human being or intelligence.

 

All I see is that I've pointed your speakers are inadequate for the pursuit of "sonic tweaking" through upgrades to components, specifically in this case your crossovers. I've never once made a derogatory remark towards you or any perceived socioeconomic status and unless you can quote me otherwise, I would very much appreciate an apology.

 

I don't care how much you spend on your audio gear. I don't care what you like. I don't care what you don't like. I was simply trying to convey the limitations of your inexpensive (when compared to all of Klipsch's offerings, not your own personal bias towards inexpensive/expensive) speakers.

 

 

hear hear!

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I was in communication with Bob Crites today concerning

the crossovers in my Synergy F-20's

He told me that since they are a current model he doesn't

have access to schematics for these speakers.

He also said that Klipsch typically uses Mylar Caps for the top

end with eletrolytics for the low end.

 

Can anyone verify this for me?

 

The best way to go about it, is to open up the speakers and see what you have for crossovers. Like mentioned, they will more than likely by Mylar capacitors on the HF, with electrolytics for LF shunt, and one or two inductors. Everything will probably be attached to a PCB, and mounted to the terminal cup.

 

Then you can determine if you want to upgrade to metal polypropylene caps,(or whatever flavor of cap you want) and how much room you have on the PCB to do such mods. You could also change over to higher quality resistors, as likely the stock ones will be sand cast types.

You can also see if the inside of the cabinets could benefit from stiffening or some sort of dampening.

 

There isn't anything wrong with tweaking on cheap speakers, surprising results can be achieved. If you know how to layout/solder, you could upgrade the parts for rather cheap.

 

Don't let other posters opinions get you down.

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I'm obviously biased towards my own language. Please quote the sections of my response where you feel I am diminishing your value as a human being or intelligence.

 

All I see is that I've pointed your speakers are inadequate for the pursuit of "sonic tweaking" through upgrades to components, specifically in this case your crossovers. I've never once made a derogatory remark towards you or any perceived socioeconomic status and unless you can quote me otherwise, I would very much appreciate an apology.

 

I don't care how much you spend on your audio gear. I don't care what you like. I don't care what you don't like. I was simply trying to convey the limitations of your inexpensive (when compared to all of Klipsch's offerings, not your own personal bias towards inexpensive/expensive) speakers.

I apologize to you Mr. Smith.  I'm not trying to argue with anyone.

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I was in communication with Bob Crites today concerning

the crossovers in my Synergy F-20's

He told me that since they are a current model he doesn't

have access to schematics for these speakers.

He also said that Klipsch typically uses Mylar Caps for the top

end with eletrolytics for the low end.

 

Can anyone verify this for me?

 

The best way to go about it, is to open up the speakers and see what you have for crossovers. Like mentioned, they will more than likely by Mylar capacitors on the HF, with electrolytics for LF shunt, and one or two inductors. Everything will probably be attached to a PCB, and mounted to the terminal cup.

 

Then you can determine if you want to upgrade to metal polypropylene caps,(or whatever flavor of cap you want) and how much room you have on the PCB to do such mods. You could also change over to higher quality resistors, as likely the stock ones will be sand cast types.

You can also see if the inside of the cabinets could benefit from stiffening or some sort of dampening.

 

There isn't anything wrong with tweaking on cheap speakers, surprising results can be achieved. If you know how to layout/solder, you could upgrade the parts for rather cheap.

 

Don't let other posters opinions get you down.

 

Thanks for the response.

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Try the Bose forum

 

 

Come on, we can do better than that.

 

Bill

 

OK then, try the Radio Shack forum.  How's that?

 

I thought you were not going to pollute my thread anymore.

You just can't stay away from trouble.

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100% accepted and moving on.

 

My logic is this: sell your speakers and find a pair of RF-5's for about $600 +/- and immediately beef up your sound more than you would by dumping $100-200 worth of cap upgrades on your existing speakers.

 

I traded a pistol for a pair of beater 1981 Cornwalls. And in my living room I have a pair of $400 KP-201's (pro Heresy 2's). My amp was $185. My network music player is DIY and cost $40. Budget audio is right up my alley.

 

You can get a lot of speaker for you money if you do the research.

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100% accepted and moving on.

 

My logic is this: sell your speakers and find a pair of RF-5's for about $600 +/- and immediately beef up your sound more than you would by dumping $100-200 worth of cap upgrades on your existing speakers.

 

I traded a pistol for a pair of beater 1981 Cornwalls. And in my living room I have a pair of $400 KP-201's (pro Heresy 2's). My amp was $185. My network music player is DIY and cost $40. Budget audio is right up my alley.

 

You can get a lot of speaker .for you money if you do the research.

Thanks for the advice.

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Try the Bose forum

 

 

Come on, we can do better than that.

 

Bill

 

OK then, try the Radio Shack forum.  How's that?

 

I thought you were not going to pollute my thread anymore.

You just can't stay away from trouble.

 

Yea, I couldn't resist, you're just too easy.

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Klipsch does not typically release network schematics for products still sold new in the market. I worked on the F-20, and am quite familiar with it. What don't you like about it? You won't hurt my feelings by saying something negative, it can only provide input for future products.

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I believe "Mustang Guy" is a rather good source on stock circuits, he has chimed in with more than iv ever seen before.

I think he has created his own "Data Bank" of all things Klipsch. 

 

I looked through the "Klipsch crossovers" thread, and the F-20 isn't listed. The actual owner and maintainer of this thread is Bacek. I helped him out a little here and there, but he gets the credit. It's a great thread!

 

I've been on these message boards for quite some time...and have read many of Schu's posts.

 

Trust me, he was being condescending.

+1

 

Welcome to the forum, and don't think for a second people here are snotty. The opposite is true. Most of these folks would give you the shirt off their back for sex.

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Easiet way is to pull the networks yourself and get some detailed photos.  Many times the values of the caps and coils are right on the printed wiring board or can be taken off the parts themselves.  Then you can determine values and what the crossover points are.  That or post them here and let the experts firgure it out for you.

 

Klipsch is not going to reveal much information to you on current models while still in production and you are definately not going to get a schematic.  It is hard to figure it you once you have a visual of the network itself.

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