Heritage_Head Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 (edited) Heresys would sound great in back also imo (if you have some already). They will give that same large effortless sound. But they would be a lot harder to mount or hang. You know I have some of those mount clips left over also from my AT panels. Im thinking about maybe using them to hang my 1201s. I use a key hole and heavy duty nail right now. But I'm a bit worried hanging 42lbs from a nail that will be hanging for years and years. Hmmm... Edited January 16, 2015 by Cinema_head 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Panza Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 In addition to the mount clips, maybe some monofilament line would make an unseen backup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 So take the nail out and put a screw on. Lol didn't know anyone used nails anymore. When I build my house as much of it that can be will be screwed together. Been in too many 3-4 year old houses with squeaky floors and stairs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 The specs include the X-Curve high-frequency attenuation: 70Hz-20kHz +/- 3dB per X curve 49Hz -10dB So they are not 3 dB down at 20 KHz...They are around 10 dB down. There's a frequency response plot in the PDF spec sheet. It would be great if the X-Curve EQ was defeatable through a switch. Other note: Four threaded inserts in the cabinet rear are in a bolt pattern width of 2.75” (6.985cm) by 5” (12.7cm) height and accept four included 1/4-20 x 1.125 UNC 2A screws for a mounting bracket attachment. I would attach a 1/2" piece of plywood to the back of the speaker using those screws, and secure the plywood to the wall using a metal french cleat. No need to drill any new holes in the speaker when doing that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heritage_Head Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 So take the nail out and put a screw on. Lol didn't know anyone used nails anymore. When I build my house as much of it that can be will be screwed together. Been in too many 3-4 year old houses with squeaky floors and stairs. Lmao. I have no idea why I said nail. Its a screw . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorm Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 The specs include the X-Curve high-frequency attenuation: 70Hz-20kHz +/- 3dB per X curve 49Hz -10dB So they are not 3 dB down at 20 KHz...They are around 10 dB down. There's a frequency response plot in the PDF spec sheet. It would be great if the X-Curve EQ was defeatable through a switch. Other note: Four threaded inserts in the cabinet rear are in a bolt pattern width of 2.75” (6.985cm) by 5” (12.7cm) height and accept four included 1/4-20 x 1.125 UNC 2A screws for a mounting bracket attachment. I would attach a 1/2" piece of plywood to the back of the speaker using those screws, and secure the plywood to the wall using a metal french cleat. No need to drill any new holes in the speaker when doing that. Yep, I did find another way of mounting that would not have required another hole. However, that was after I already mounted them this week. I will be using that method if I put another two in the back. Any thoughts on how we could defeat the X-Curve. I could always take apart the speaker and post some more pics of the crossover if needed. I believe there were some crossovers where you could just add a jumper wire around a point and it would defeat??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorm Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Speaking of modifications, I wonder if I could drop in the K-70-G with the 703 horns into these. The crossover points look close enough, and the horn would be a direct bolt in. Not sure on depth inside though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Any thoughts on how we could defeat the X-Curve. I could always take apart the speaker and post some more pics of the crossover if needed. I believe there were some crossovers where you could just add a jumper wire around a point and it would defeat??? That's the case with my (older) KPT-100, but each crossover is different of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorm Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Heresys would sound great in back also imo (if you have some already). They will give that same large effortless sound. But they would be a lot harder to mount or hang. You know I have some of those mount clips left over also from my AT panels. Im thinking about maybe using them to hang my 1201s. I use a key hole and heavy duty nail right now. But I'm a bit worried hanging 42lbs from a nail that will be hanging for years and years. Hmmm... Also - On the mount. The speaker itsef is only 20 pounds. Double screwed into a stud. I think the mount would bend and giveout before the screws would. So far the mount has worked perfectly. They make bigger 6 inch ones that I fond on Amazon. Beefy-er too. If I bought more of the 8060s, I would use them. http://www.amazon.com/Hangman-Products-6-Inch-Z-Hanger-Aluminum/dp/B002NEFF7O/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421344249&sr=1-6&keywords=z+clip#productDetails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heritage_Head Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 The specs include the X-Curve high-frequency attenuation: 70Hz-20kHz +/- 3dB per X curve 49Hz -10dB So they are not 3 dB down at 20 KHz...They are around 10 dB down. There's a frequency response plot in the PDF spec sheet. It would be great if the X-Curve EQ was defeatable through a switch. Other note: Four threaded inserts in the cabinet rear are in a bolt pattern width of 2.75” (6.985cm) by 5” (12.7cm) height and accept four included 1/4-20 x 1.125 UNC 2A screws for a mounting bracket attachment. I would attach a 1/2" piece of plywood to the back of the speaker using those screws, and secure the plywood to the wall using a metal french cleat. No need to drill any new holes in the speaker when doing that. Yep, I did find another way of mounting that would not have required another hole. However, that was after I already mounted them this week. I will be using that method if I put another two in the back. Any thoughts on how we could defeat the X-Curve. I could always take apart the speaker and post some more pics of the crossover if needed. I believe there were some crossovers where you could just add a jumper wire around a point and it would defeat??? Bill Hendrix was telling me you would never notice it with or with out. On top of that the eqs in the avr take care of the small dips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 I am looking into it right now. I have to get my own business plan together before Klipsch would consider me though. Prolly will take a while but dream job would be to own a store and sell and install products that I am very passionate about. That's something I am working on myself, good luck on your journey. Anybody considered the KPT-8000M. I like the price on these, I was thinking of giving a pair a try for ceiling mounted purposes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorm Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 I noticed that my Audiseey set these things at 120hz for subwoofer crossover...lol. Not sure if this is due to the x curve or not. May have to send my crossovers to crites to modify... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 I noticed that my Audiseey set these things at 120hz for subwoofer crossover...lol. Not sure if this is due to the x curve or not. May have to send my crossovers to crites to modify... why not just change them to 80? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorm Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) I noticed that my Audiseey set these things at 120hz for subwoofer crossover...lol. Not sure if this is due to the x curve or not. May have to send my crossovers to crites to modify... why not just change them to 80? I'm running them as large...LOL. I like the sound, they get just as low as the RS-7s to my ear anyway... But could they go lower without the Xcurve....hummmmm. Edited January 21, 2015 by Gorm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) The X-curve may be to help the HF response. This may be needed in a small HT. A XO of 80 or 120 Hz is not a big deal if you can't localize the subwoofers. I see no reason to worry about having speakers set to Large if the system as good subs. I was thinking last night, good thing I use the RF 7's as small. The movie Live Die Repeat with Tom Curise may have tore them up with that ultra LF sweep at the beginning of the movie. That sweep went down to 10 Hz and with redirected bass. that was 120 db at 10 Hz. The only good reasons I can think of in a multichannel HT to set the speakers to Large is: not enough wooferage or a single sub for a better room response backed up by room measurements, just my personal take on the matter. Speakers set to large, especially the mains, cause phase, cancellation, bloated bass, headroom problems and if you are using Audysee, it has 8-16X greater resolution/correction than the other speaker at a minimum. Why cause problems that are not necessary an beneficial. Edited January 21, 2015 by derrickdj1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Panza Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 I set all my speakers to LARGE, LFE+Main & leave the Crossovers as set by the AVR after running Audyssey. Sounds much better. Recommend trying it both ways for a week or 10 days as Ymmv. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorm Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) My subs are running very hot. When I want LFE to shake the house, it shakes the house. If I put everything below 60hz onto the subs, it would be overkill and fatiguing.The 15"s in the mains do a wonderful job with the slam factor, I designed the box and port to go around 35hz before any serious rolloff. So far, The fronts are perfect. I usually run Audseey Flat instead of pure Audssey. I also do not run any of the dynamic volume or those junk options. Edited January 21, 2015 by Gorm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 I noticed that my Audiseey set these things at 120hz for subwoofer crossover...lol. Not sure if this is due to the x curve or not. X-Curve is high frequency attenuation only. It should not affect low frequency extension at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 (edited) Any thoughts on how we could defeat the X-Curve. I could always take apart the speaker and post some more pics of the crossover if needed. I believe there were some crossovers where you could just add a jumper wire around a point and it would defeat??? That's the case with my (older) KPT-100, but each crossover is different of course. Here's the old thread on bypassing the x-curve on the KPT-100s. It might be useful figuring out what you need to do. For the KPT-100s it was a single jumper. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/139441-kpt-100/?hl=kpt100#entry1567491 Bob Crites posted a schematic with the fix on it. It bypasses a couple of parts. Bruce Edited January 22, 2015 by Marvel 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Any thoughts on how we could defeat the X-Curve. I could always take apart the speaker and post some more pics of the crossover if needed. I believe there were some crossovers where you could just add a jumper wire around a point and it would defeat??? That's the case with my (older) KPT-100, but each crossover is different of course. Here's the old thread on bypassing the x-curve on the KPT-100s. It might be useful figuring out what you need to do. For the KPT-100s it was a single jumper. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/139441-kpt-100/?hl=kpt100#entry1567491 Bob Crites posted a schematic with the fix on it. It bypasses a couple of parts. Bruce Right. I have had it listed in my profile for a while, in case anyone ever needed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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