Max2 Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 (edited) Has anyone don't this before and possibly have some insight? Im guessing a lot 80 grit pads a few 160's and 220's and a decent DA? I might add Im worried about voids, tight areas and what not where all the black paint cant be removed. I am considering just painting them a somewhat neutral color other than black Edited February 17, 2015 by Max2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Is that...green? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eth2 Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 It's not easy being green! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 I do not think it will work you will sand through the birch veneer and make it look worse than it is. Another option is to veneer over what you have already I have done that with my scalas ....... as long as you have a smooth surface and chips filled your good to go. I have used both iron on and contact cement on veneers. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max2 Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 I do not think it will work you will sand through the birch veneer and make it look worse than it is. Another option is to veneer over what you have already I have done that with my scalas ....... as long as you have a smooth surface and chips filled your good to go. I have used both iron on and contact cement on veneers. Rick These being solid birch plywood, I wouldn't think I would take them through a full layer with an orbital D.A. Im not going to take a belt sander to them or anything. Is that...green? I think it is. Pretty bad azz pair too. Note the Volti mids and probably 2 inch drivers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedcrankcammer Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 I-d say go for it! If they come out to terrible for your liking, you could always drop them off with a custom car painter and have them sprayed House of Kolors Candied Brandywine over a Gold base. Roger 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max2 Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 I-d say go for it! If they come out to terrible for your liking, you could always drop them off with a custom car painter and have them sprayed House of Kolors Candied Brandywine over a Gold base. Roger Heck yeah. Anything but drab black! Well they do have to kind of tie in with my Lacquered K-horns, maybe something a little more subtle than Brandywine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Has anyone don't this before and possibly have some insight? Im guessing a lot 80 grit pads a few 160's and 220's and a decent DA? I might add Im worried about voids, tight areas and what not where all the black paint cant be removed. I am considering just painting them a somewhat neutral color other than black not bad at all - really nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggieSmalls Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Just tell me where your at I will bring you my K-horns and trade and you wont have to do none of that I think I would throw in a pair of raw birch cornwalls in also they should be easy to finish lol have fun. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 "I wouldn't think I would take them through a full layer" How thick do you think the veneer is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karsoncookie Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Just sand smooth, prime, and re paint to your color. You're in for a "world full of hurt" otherwise. No way they will go back to stainable birch by sanding or stripping Some may disagree that you can't do it by stripping, but to have untainted "birch" at this point, IMHO is impossible. Be happy with what you have and rethink your refinish appearance. You have a world of colors AND textures available to you. Just one guys thoughts that has done some finishing and and stripping and re finishing.Lars 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karsoncookie Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 In my worst nightmares I get a glimpse of the time and effort to prep these for just re painting. Enjoy green. Lars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karsoncookie Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 OMG All those corners, crevices and joints - and not cut through the veneer ANYWHERE ?? - Not gonna happen. Lars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Wait till you try to sand the inside area it is almost impossible. I veneered my LaScalas but only the top and sides because of that. How did you get those and why would you want to paint them. If the finish is smooth just veneer over the top of the paint you only have to score the paint a little for veneer. But veneering inside the dog house area is going to be the challenge. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max2 Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 (edited) "I wouldn't think I would take them through a full layer" How thick do you think the veneer is? Well true hardwood veneer is posted as 3mm which I'm guessing would be close to what Klipsch uses for their Walnut, Oak, Cherry etc. These LS's have no real veneer added. If you are referring to the outside ply of the plywood they are built with, I actually don't know its thickness other than just guessing. I would have thought it would be thicker than hardwood veneer, but maybe not. Maybe I should just keep looking for a swap with someone. Wait till you try to sand the inside area it is almost impossible. I veneered my LaScalas but only the top and sides because of that. How did you get those and why would you want to paint them. If the finish is smooth just veneer over the top of the paint you only have to score the paint a little for veneer. But veneering inside the dog house area is going to be the challenge. Rick Im afraid I would just have to leave the inner dog house area black. Its not a smooth finish. I think this is what they did in '92 or '96 (cant remember what year they are) for the Industrials. Its kind of a semi textured finish. Wish I could find a set of these laying around Edited February 18, 2015 by Max2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karsoncookie Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Previously I said - "Just sand smooth, prime, and re paint to your color." Let me change that. Full blown "sanding" is silly. Your best bet is to scotchbrite pad scuff the whole thing, wipe it down, and have a pro spray them your choice of color. If they're currently textured, they will look great overcoated. Depending on your budget, IF - IF- you're good with a spray can and know what you're doing, that could save alot $ and look good. If the Scotchbrite wont dull the finish, then scuff w fine sandpaper by hand. The most important thing is-- Absolutely test your new paint in a hidden area to test for adhesion and any bad reaction. Depending on the existing finish, and your new paint, you MAY have good adhesion even with NO scuffing. I tell ya- years ago I had a pair of birch LaScalas and had a fever to make them gloss black. Brought them to a "pro" auto painter. Got them back, looked not perfect but good. A week later I'm lookin at em and I see a little bubble at a corner. So I kinda pushed on it with my finger, and it got larger. ???? Anyway, end result the finish started coming of in sheets. In 2 hours and a blow drier, I had peeled ALL of the new black paint off Gray primer coat remained. The "pro" chose incompatible materials.. That was a great lesson in testing for reaction and adhesion in a hidden area. You seem to like natural wood. Cool. But you really can't resurrect these to that. My 2 cents of ramblings. Lars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthews Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 (edited) So, is this what the underside of my '96 Scala's look like (with bottom plate removed) ??? Edited February 19, 2015 by Matthews Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 "Well true hardwood veneer is posted as 3mm which I'm guessing would be close to what Klipsch uses for their Walnut, Oak, Cherry etc. " Klipsch used 1/28" veneer on the furniture-grade models, 0.0357", standard commercial grade birch ply is usually 0.023" 3mm is absurd, 0.118", I think not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max2 Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 "Well true hardwood veneer is posted as 3mm which I'm guessing would be close to what Klipsch uses for their Walnut, Oak, Cherry etc. " Klipsch used 1/28" veneer on the furniture-grade models, 0.0357", standard commercial grade birch ply is usually 0.023" 3mm is absurd, 0.118", I think not. You're right. Maybe i read that Baltic Ply has 3mm layers? Either way, I never thought sanding would be an issue with plywood, but I guess it depends on the outside ply thickness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max2 Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 So, is this what the underside of my '96 Scala's look like (with bottom plate removed) ??? Your woofer may be different, but yes, it should. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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