boubou Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Welcome to the forums! Are you not happy with the sound as they are placed? You say you are getting very good base response but you are posting and asking for suggestions. So I'm not sure (and I'm sure others will feel the same) what you are asking? Thanks Steve. I am happy but a bit of a perfectionist. The insight I received from Max2 may up the performance to another level. Also by showing a picture of their placement other members with similar placement may be able to offer some insight. Ahh a perfectionist! Then you'll want to rip down that wall molding, move that radiator and raise that ceiling (if 8 foot) and get those speakers tight against the corners and walls. But you knew that already. I am envious of the width and the length of the room you have them in. Can I ask what year those are? Perhaps they could benefit from a capacitor replacement? Anything more than about 20 years and those caps are drying out. How loud do you listen? Some of the networks that the guys make on here might be something to look into depending on your listening levels (extreme slope) and what you thing needs to be changed - such as too much midrange or treble, etc.... carpeting in front of the speakers helps to absorb some of the higher frequencies. Long story short you've come to the right place if you want suggestions about how to make your Klipschorns sound as good as they were made to sound. Everyone on this site is extremely helpful and very pleasant to deal with. Hi Steve! The ceilings are high...12 feet...sunken drawing room. The Klipschorns serial numbers are 1B912 making them 1963. The original crossovers are in a box. The new crossovers are ALK Klipsch duplicates. The speakers have received a gentle restoration so they are very original and sound magnificent. All the original stickers are still in place as well. They replace vintage Bozak B4000 Symphony speakers that have gone out for restoration. The amp is a McIntosh MC2105 ,preamp McIntosh C22, tuner is a MR71, Turn table is a Thorens TD320 and the CD player a Simaudio Moon Nova. The advice and generosity here is great. Best, André 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boubou Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Hello, I've attached a few pictures showing the corner placement of my two speakers. Because of wall mouldings and right side radiator my speakers cannot be placed flush into the corners. There is 1 to 2 inch distance from the wall. I get very good bass response nevertheless. Also the speakers are on the respective corners of a 25 foot length wall. By my calculations there is a 19 foot or so space between the two speakers. Any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated. please turn you speakers vertical Yes! I agree! Don't know how. Tried but did not succeed. If you can give me instructions I would follow them. Thanks,André Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boubou Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Hey Max2 why not seal those holes at bottom also ? Rick I actually already have 9" pieces to do that, I have just been enjoying them so much I haven't pulled them back off to add them yet. Thanks for taking the time to post pictures. Looks super straight forward! I could probably do it myself! Looks great! No sweat Boubou and thank you. A member here Davis419b was they guy that filled me in with the idea and the "how to". Apparently he has done several pair this way and would be a great source of info. I will try to contact Davis419b...thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 (edited) Hello, I've attached a few pictures showing the corner placement of my two speakers. Because of wall mouldings and right side radiator my speakers cannot be placed flush into the corners. There is 1 to 2 inch distance from the wall. I get very good bass response nevertheless. Also the speakers are on the respective corners of a 25 foot length wall. By my calculations there is a 19 foot or so space between the two speakers. Any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated. has the cast iron radiator heater at right been close to the speakers all along - since 1963 Edited February 20, 2015 by Randyh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJkizak Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Oh that radiator will just make the sound a bit hotter. That's supposed to be funny folks. JJK 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boubou Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Hello, I've attached a few pictures showing the corner placement of my two speakers. Because of wall mouldings and right side radiator my speakers cannot be placed flush into the corners. There is 1 to 2 inch distance from the wall. I get very good bass response nevertheless. Also the speakers are on the respective corners of a 25 foot length wall. By my calculations there is a 19 foot or so space between the two speakers. Any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated. please turn you speakers vertical I figured it out. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max2 Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Is that a MC2105 running your K-horns Boubou? Is that a DAC on top? Good looking gear, bet it sounds great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryC Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Because of wall mouldings and right side radiator my speakers cannot be placed flush into the corners. I hope radiator heat won't warp the wood, if it's active. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Because of wall mouldings and right side radiator my speakers cannot be placed flush into the corners.I hope radiator heat won't warp the wood, if it's active. my point exactly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absolve2525 Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Awesome, Max2! I need those for my Khorns. How do you you attach those nine inch pieces you mention for the bottom? Are your plans the same as those I've seen floating around, or modified? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallette Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Dang. Been here for over a decade and never saw this. Is there ANY downside to this and why didn't PWK think of it if there isn't????? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max2 Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Dang. Been here for over a decade and never saw this. Is there ANY downside to this and why didn't PWK think of it if there isn't????? Dave The anniversary edition K-horn was enclosed. I got the idea from another member here mentioned earlier in the thread. The downsides I can see are that you lose just under 3/4" of exit area since the boards are attached flush with the tailboard on top board of bass cab instead of a wall butting up against it. Im sure there is some white paper differences with this and also since you don't have the extension of unobstructed walls for the sides. Its a cheap fix and has to be every bit of 85 - 90% of an optimally placed and setup K-horn. Screws are only shot in grill support and tailboard support, not holes made in bass cab. I like the fact that they can be towed out for better imaging with my seating distance. Bass is tight and clean, no resonating or rattles either. Awesome, Max2! I need those for my Khorns. How do you you attach those nine inch pieces you mention for the bottom? Are your plans the same as those I've seen floating around, or modified? I have a 9" piece of ply that is cut with angles on each side. It will slip in front of the tailboard against it and then be screwed to the new side boards from the rear. One side board will have to come off to do this, but its just removing 4 screws to remove. Once they're painted black it would look much more factory, but you can't see them unless you look behind speaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boubou Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 Is that a MC2105 running your K-horns Boubou? Is that a DAC on top? Good looking gear, bet it sounds great. Yes it is Max2. The TT is a Thorens 320 and the CD player isa Simaudio Moon Nova. Yes the system sounds wonderful. I am happy with the bass inspite of my inability of placing the speakers flush to the wall. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundog Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 What Max 2 did is very interesting. If the bass sounds great then this is a good idea. But I wonder because the seal to a 6-8 ft wall on each side was the whole idea of a khorn. Not a big problem when everything was monaural just needed one corner that had 6-8 ft of wall on either side. Stereo required a wall with two corners with 6-8 ft on each side! What I have experienced over the years was the attachment of 4x8 sheets on one or more sides of the Khorn to create a false wall where no wall existed or were an existing wall was not a solid straightaway due to windows. radiators, molding etc. If a window intervenrd then the 4x8 board would have to be placed over part of the window (not always ascetically pleasing). The idea of Paul's design was to create an extended bass horn by using the rooms side walls as part of the speaker because for a horn to acuratly reproduce low bass requires a very long horn ( horn tweeters have very short horns, midrange horns are longer and bass horns are very long ) therfore often folded as in the Khorn but the longer the horn the lower the natural reproduction of bass. Where moldiing or baseboards prevent a seal removing same is one soution or as suggested foam along each edge of the bass bin may work if the foam allowed a continuous seal from wall over molding ... a flat wall surface all around is best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundog Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 The qustion is: will the attached backboard panels against the baseboards allow the recessed wall to serve as an adequate continuous extension of the Khorns base bin horn? Or will the lack of flat continuity be a problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbakedq Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 BouBou: Follow the link below for what I did, for a similar situation as yours. A bit more elaborate than Max2, but not much. As he indicated, it helps to have a good table saw. Particularly the 45 deg. cuts on the 2x6 that is bolted to the tail board. Hopefully, you can see from the pictures, that instead of screwing into the side grill braces, I used eye bolts and Molly bolts to snug the back boards in. My method may be unnecessarily elaborate. Rich https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/98322-khorn-60th-anniversary-style-backs/?hl=rbakedq Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Is there ANY downside to this and why didn't PWK think of it if there isn't? https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/131163-corner-horn-imaging-faq/?p=1464863 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max2 Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 The qustion is: will the attached backboard panels against the baseboards allow the recessed wall to serve as an adequate continuous extension of the Khorns base bin horn? Or will the lack of flat continuity be a problem? I think it depends on where your K's are as of their full potential right now. A perfect seal with a wall, clear of furniture on both sides for 4-6 feet or better yet, even more area would be better than enclosing IMO. But then there is no toeing out the speakers which has a huge benefit of the soundstage and allowing you to get further behind the speakers and pin point your listening location to get better dynamics. My way costs $50 for a decent sheet of baltic birch and no one will ever know they were there if you decide to remove them. Im sure there are a few cycles Im missing out on with enclosing, but I think its pretty darn close. I had to run mine out of the corners due to a dove tailed ceiling and used them for quite a while unsealed. Even after months of listening with them enclosed, I still check my settings sometimes thinking my sub has been turned on with 2 channel listening. My SVS sub hasn't been used in quite some time and since enclosing the K's, it has kind of jaded me against using anything other than horn loaded bass from my K's. No boomy sound, just clean, clear bass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 I believe PWK left the sides open, that it to say used the walls of the room, in order to get a patent. WMcD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J M O N Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 It was always my understanding that you needed a minimum of 48" of wall on each side in order to get the lowest frequencies. I can't remember where I read that (maybe this forum) but it has been in my memory for many, many years. Heck, I was even designing that into a house I was having built about 15 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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