twk123 Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Thanks for all the pics. Now I am feeling a bit wimpy with my F20s. I wonder how it would fit in as a third sub with the F20s taking 25HZ and above and letting this do the low stuff? we already have a truly remarkable sub. resist the urge. Lol I feel like upgrading from an f-20 to a Lil-Wrecker is like trading in your Buggatti Veyron for the new "Supersport" model because its not fast enough to merge onto the freeway... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tromprof Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Thanks for all the pics. Now I am feeling a bit wimpy with my F20s. I wonder how it would fit in as a third sub with the F20s taking 25HZ and above and letting this do the low stuff? we already have a truly remarkable sub. resist the urge. Lol I feel like upgrading from an f-20 to a Lil-Wrecker is like trading in your Buggatti Veyron for the new "Supersport" model because its not fast enough to merge onto the freeway... I drive a Prius. Maybe I am trying to compensate for something. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 On 2/19/2015 at 10:12 PM, CECAA850 said: Last picture for tonight. My son took this one with me in it for reference. I'm 6' tall. I just can't get over the nice cloths you wear, and how clean you look after a build like that. Good work as all ways. Can't wait to see the finished product. I know what you mean about the plywood. My first build was a ttls and I had a heck of a time with warped panels. I hate cutting mdf, but have considered it to see if my builds come out better. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 I actually like working with MDF. It's straight as all get out and very inert. Just be sure you have a good dust collection system. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 I dont like it because it crumbles and you cant use Kreg screws. Plus my last house got destroyed by mold and all the wood that was particle board and mdf was eaten up pretty badly. Hardwood and plywood was salvageable but most particle board and mdf had to be thrown away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 he used kreg screws to build my F-20 in MDF the weight/inert qualities combined with thick rubber feet means my sub never vibrates, let alone moves. If it weren't for the audible bass and air moving through the mouth I wouldn't know it was on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 I dont like it because it crumbles and you cant use Kreg screws. Plus my last house got destroyed by mold and all the wood that was particle board and mdf was eaten up pretty badly. Hardwood and plywood was salvageable but most particle board and mdf had to be thrown away. I don't know why you think you can't use Kreg screws, I do it all the time. Just buy coarse thread. If MDF is good enough for SVS and others, it's good enough for me. I honestly can't think of a major sub manufacturer that DOESN'T use MDF but there might actually be some. Another thing I love about MDF is no end grain. The Lil Wrecker I'm working on had small voids in the end grain. I went around the box twice with bondo filling voids and after I primered, I still found more to fill. Cabinet grade MDF is vastly different than the crap they sell in the big box stores. I've never had an issue with crumbling and it machines better than ply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 OK, this one is winding down. Here's the connection at the Neutric that will mount to the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 (edited) Here's the male and female together. I love these connectors, they never come loose. I soldered the ends of the speaker wire prior to installing them so they wouldn't fray. The picture makes it look as if there's voids in the paint but that's just reflection off the irregular surface. The box got a primer coat and 2 finish coats that were hand sanded with 400 grit between coats. Edited February 21, 2015 by CECAA850 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angusruler Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 just curious....what is birch ply selling for in yer neck of the woods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 Done! 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angusruler Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 the finish looks really nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 OK, time to fire it up. The amp is a Crown XLS 602D which we'll bridge to 1200 watts @ 8Homs. The driver is a dual 4 Ohm voice coil bought specifically to have a series wired load of 8 Ohms. To bridge the amp you have to modify the input XLR's so that channel 2 has the + and - reversed. The polarity is only reversed on that channel however. I double checked all the wiring from the CD player to the driver, fired it up and...............nothing. It seems that when you bridge the amp you need more voltage to drive the amp than normal consumer level electronics provides. It's odd though as unbridged, consumer level products drive the amp just fine. Luckily I had an Art Cleanbox, put it in the source line and we were up and running. I ran sine waves from 17 to 65Hz and this thing has GOBS of output. My garage is detached from the house yet things were shaking inside the house! My wife felt it all the way in the back of the house as well. Ron should be really happy with it as it will be replacing a Sub 12. I went ahead and called him to give him the heads up that he'll need a Cleanbox as well. Thanks for looking! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 the finish looks really nice. Thanks! I used to like how flat black looked on a sub but the rough surface the flat paint leaves always holds dust and is hard to wipe clean. I use satin black now. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 just curious....what is birch ply selling for in yer neck of the woods? Sorry I missed this. Ron bought the ply and brought it to me. I'm thinking maybe 45/sheet? Maybe Ron will chime in. To be clear, it was birch, not Baltic birch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 I need a sub that size. Great job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike stehr Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 (edited) the finish looks really nice. Thanks! I used to like how flat black looked on a sub but the rough surface the flat paint leaves always holds dust and is hard to wipe clean. I use satin black now. Carl, Did you spray the subwoofer cabinet with Satin black, or did you roll it on? The reason I'm asking is I just acquired a pair of Adire Audio HE12.1 coaxials, (a kit) mounted in home-brew tower enclosures. The cabs/enclosures were sprayed with LineX bedliner, but in a rushed/botched manner. The images doen't really show it, but they have a really rough and uneven finish, with this weird metallic shine to them...it's kinda gruesome... I've taken 100 grit sandpaper using a palm sander, and it knocks down the roughness fairly quick. Once things are smoothed out, I was wanting to use a Satin/semi-gloss black coating to re-do them. A little texturing is nice, but these have the texture of 10 year old pavement. Edit: You had to roll that on there...just a drop-cloth, no protection from overspray, and hash marks from where the roller hit the drop-cloth. Edited February 22, 2015 by mike stehr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MORE KLIPSCH PLEASE Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 looks really nice....great job Carl. Yea I'm with the other guys with the wood thing....if I cut a piece to short I can't weld more on.....lol lol MKP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Edit: You had to roll that on there...just a drop-cloth, no protection from overspray, and hash marks from where the roller hit the drop-cloth. Yep, rolled it. Roller hit the drop cloth, hacked me off as my roller picked up some trash that I subsequently had to pick out of the wet paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 I need a sub that size. Doesn't everybody? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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