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Next up, Lil Wrecker


CECAA850

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Edit: You had to roll that on there...just a drop-cloth, no protection from overspray, and hash marks from where the roller hit the drop-cloth.

 

Yep, rolled it. 

 

Roller hit the drop cloth, hacked me off as my roller picked up some trash that I subsequently had to pick out of the wet paint.

 

 

I hate that when that happens...

 

Should have asked in the other post, but what type of paint did you use? Duratex? Latex?

 

Thanks,

Mike

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Meh.  Waiting on the BIG Wrecker... -_-

 

Dave

 

 

Here you GO.  This is about the baddest thing you could build.  It has no business in a home.

 

 

I had the pleasure of hearing 2 of those Othorns with 2 Ghorns. The most insane bass I've ever experienced. Nothing, nothing has even come close. He has the Othorns starting around 25hz going down to 12ish hz I believe, the Ghorns do everything above 25hz.

 

 

Great looking build, as usual. How does it sound?

Edited by Rowan611
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I need a sub that size.  Great job.

 

 

Sorry Derrick, not for sale. LOL. I think after a little back therapy, Carl will be good for round 2!!!

 

The Birch was approx. $45.00 per sheet. I picked it up so there was no delivery fees.

 

I really like the shape of the sub. Its no that big of footprint if you think about it. At least in my warped world anyway. LOL. Oh Sheit, it rattled the unattached house????? Oh boy, this is going to be interesting! Kinda reminds me of the first time I bought BB gun for my son and no matter what rules you lay down, or how strict you are, there always seems to be some broken glass huh? I bet no matter how careful I am, I beleive there will be some broken glass with this thing too! 

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  OK, time to fire it up.  The amp is a Crown XLS 602D which we'll bridge to 1200 watts @ 8Homs.  The driver is a dual 4 Ohm voice coil bought specifically to have a series wired load of 8 Ohms.  To bridge the amp you have to modify the input XLR's so that channel 2 has the + and - reversed.  The polarity is only reversed on that channel however.  I double checked all the wiring from the CD player to the driver, fired it up and...............nothing.  It seems that when you bridge the amp you need more voltage to drive the amp than normal consumer level electronics provides.  It's odd though as unbridged, consumer level products drive the amp just fine.  Luckily I had an Art Cleanbox, put it in the source line and we were up and running.  I ran sine waves from 17 to 65Hz and this thing has GOBS of output.  My garage is detached from the house yet things were shaking inside the house!  My wife felt it all the way in the back of the house as well.  Ron should be really happy with it as it will be replacing a Sub 12.  I went ahead and called him to give him the heads up that he'll need a Cleanbox as well.  Thanks for looking! 

 

 

That looks fantastic Carl. I'm speechless other than to say THANKS. I feel like I should be passing out cigars to everybody for the arrival of the new baby. (Wipes eyes like new dad). My poor ol Sub 12 has no idea whats fixing to happen to it!

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Great looking build, as usual. How does it sound?

 

it sounded fantastic for the short time I had it up and running. 

 

FUBAR alert!!!!!

 

I thought the driver was rated at 1500 watts RMS as I was running 1200 to it and thought I was safe.  Come to find out, it was a 500 RMS driver and I let the magic smoke out of it.  It was odd because it happened after 20 seconds and just with music so I may have had a marginal driver as well.  We'll either unbridge the amp and run one channel with the same driver or find something that will handle the higher wattage.  I'm doing some research today.

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Great looking build, as usual. How does it sound?

 

it sounded fantastic for the short time I had it up and running. 

 

FUBAR alert!!!!!

 

I thought the driver was rated at 1500 watts RMS as I was running 1200 to it and thought I was safe.  Come to find out, it was a 500 RMS driver and I let the magic smoke out of it.  It was odd because it happened after 20 seconds and just with music so I may have had a marginal driver as well.  We'll either unbridge the amp and run one channel with the same driver or find something that will handle the higher wattage.  I'm doing some research today.

 

Bummer! Box don't blow no mo. So the 1500W was a typo?

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Should have asked in the other post, but what type of paint did you use? Duratex? Latex?

 

Black semi gloss Latex.

 

 

Thanks Carl.

 

I had pretty much determined that from reviewing your past threads with respect to subwoofer enclosure/cabinets. You build some awesome subwoofers.

The Duratex seems like a nice product. But I'm a little short, and latex is cheaper.

 

I noticed one can get the Duratex kit direct from the site with free shipping. $24.95 or some such...I dunno if PE charges shipping with Duratex.

Seems the same thing. You get a bag of it with a roller.

 

Indeed, bummer about frappin' the driver.

Edited by mike stehr
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I had pretty much determined that from reviewing your past threads with respect to subwoofer enclosure/cabinets. You build some awesome subwoofers. The Duratex seems like a nice product. But I'm a little short, and latex is cheaper.

 

I've used Duratex on 2 builds that I've posted build threads on.  The sub for my son's truck and the sub they Eric sent me the two 12" drivers for.  That stuff goes a long way.

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Great looking build, as usual. How does it sound?

 

it sounded fantastic for the short time I had it up and running. 

 

FUBAR alert!!!!!

 

I thought the driver was rated at 1500 watts RMS as I was running 1200 to it and thought I was safe.  Come to find out, it was a 500 RMS driver and I let the magic smoke out of it.  It was odd because it happened after 20 seconds and just with music so I may have had a marginal driver as well.  We'll either unbridge the amp and run one channel with the same driver or find something that will handle the higher wattage.  I'm doing some research today.

 

You've been busy, and I had some time, so I did some digging for you. Here is the list of drivers lilmike listed. Bold have been tested, non-bold have the right TS specs. They are listed from most RMS to least, and the RMS is listed. The TC LMS-R looks best to me due to it's high voltage capacity and low FS; however, it has not been tested. 

 

TC Sounds LMS5400 15 - 2000 RMS - NO LONGER SOLD
Fi Q 15 - 1500 RMS - http://store.ficaraudio.com/q15/ - $324
Sundown Zv3 15 - 1500 RMS - http://www.emfcaraudio.com/sundown-audio-zv3-15-dual-1/ - $539
Kicker 2010 CVX 154 - 1000 RMS - about $400
Kicker 2010 CVX 152 - 1000 RMS - about $400
:emotion-22: TC Sounds LMS-R 15 - 1000 RMS - http://www.parts-express.com/tc-sounds-lms-r-15-dvc-subwoofer--293-662 - about $400
AE AV15H D4 - 1000 RMS - NO LONGER SOLD
Stereo Integrity HT15D2 - 600 RMS - NO LONGER SOLD
Stereo Integrity HT15D4 - 600 RMS - NO LONGER SOLD
Edited by mustang guy
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Thanks, the biggest problem is finding a driver that will handle the wattage of the Crown and have a final impedance of 8 Ohms.

 

I spent all day e-mailing between Lil Mike and Nick at Ficar.  Ficar is fixing me up with a custom built dual 4 Ohm Q for this box.  It'll laugh at the Crown.  This thing will be INSANE.  Hopefully I'll have it in a couple weeks.

Edited by CECAA850
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