Guest Steven1963 Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 What process do you guys use when taking care of your speakers' wood finish? When I got my 72 Khorns the finish was undamaged but with some buildup from years of caring for them. They are oiled walnut and there were areas where it appeared previous applications of oil were left on the surface causing rough patches - almost like small bubbles, but actually were dried pencil points of oil. I also had a light water mark from a glass on top of one of the speakers. So I did a little research and decided to peel they years off of them by using some high quality oil and some very fine steel wool. I applied the oil to the steel wool and rubbed it into the wood, always going with the grain and not using too much pressure, but enough that I felt I was removing years of dirt and residue while applying new moisture at the same time. Areas that were worse, I used more pressure, including on the water mark. I followed this process a couple of times and the water mark is completely gone along with all of the rough patches. The finish on the speakers is smooth as silk and still shiny, as if new. I'm very happy with the 'restoration work' I performed, even though they weren't in that bad of shape, they now look even better. I now apply the oil about once a month using a rag (no more steel wool), making sure I wipe off any excess after a few minutes of letting it soak in. I was wondering what type of rituals you guys were going through to care for your speakers? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Yes oiled finish can be brought back to 'good as new' by re applying oil as you did. As long as there is no significant damage to the veneer. If there is considerable build up of furniture polish (and the dirt and dust it attracts) denatured alcohol can be used before re applying oil to help cut through the crud with less elbow grease. So yes I periodically re oil my KHorns and Lascalas when they start to look dried out. I usually use lemon oil. Although recently I have started using olive oil for lack of the petroleum smell of the lemon oil products. Just wipe on, let soak in and dry partially, then wipe off excess. Then about once every 10 years or so I re finish with Watco. I am a relatively new owner of some lacquer finished RF7 IIs and would be curious how others here on the forum take care of theirs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 thats good to hear you had good results on the k-horns. what oil did you use? i like lemon oil for maintnance but it does have a slight smell to it for a short time untill it exaporates. never thought of olive oil, i use it for cooking & salad dressing though! im debating on the watco vs howards myself for my fortes that need some refinishing on the top of one thats sun faded, but i think the howards is best for my situation since it has some stain in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prerich Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 thats good to hear you had good results on the k-horns. what oil did you use? i like lemon oil for maintnance but it does have a slight smell to it for a short time untill it exaporates. never thought of olive oil, i use it for cooking & salad dressing though! im debating on the watco vs howards myself for my fortes that need some refinishing on the top of one thats sun faded, but i think the howards is best for my situation since it has some stain in it. I use Watco on my Corns and Heresy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I have never used steel wool. It seems almost impossible for the crumbs of steel to find their way into the voice coil gap but I'm taking no chances. I've used non-scratch Scotch-brite and as an easy to find alternative, buff-puffs. The latter being the pads sold at Walgreens which people use to scrub their faces. WMcD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Steven1963 Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I'm only using the steel wool on the outer-wood surfaces - the ones that show. I'm not near any of the speaker or electrical components. And after I am done with the steel wool to simultaneously strip old matter and reapply new oil, I wipe it all down with a cloth. So no chance of any bits of steel drying on the wood and making their way into anything they could damage. The steel wool is very fine, akin to 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cantilope Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 My Belle's are sun faded, they are Lacquered Rosewood. Any suggestions for fading? I'd love to have them look as good as the insides of the tops. I will not sand them though, they are in to good of shape for that, just unevenly faded a bit. I can live with it, but if there was an easy was to return them to the original color, id try it. For my Cornwalls, I have been using real, all natural Tung Oil with great success. I like it a lot better than lemon oil. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angusruler Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 after I got the final coat of finish on my spkrs, all I have to do is dust once in a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angusruler Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 My Belle's are sun faded, they are Lacquered Rosewood. Any suggestions for fading? I'd love to have them look as good as the insides of the tops. I will not sand them though, they are in to good of shape for that, just unevenly faded a bit. I can live with it, but if there was an easy was to return them to the original color, id try it. For my Cornwalls, I have been using real, all natural Tung Oil with great success. I like it a lot better than lemon oil. my wife knitted, yes knitted, some small "rugs" to place on top of mine. it's nice cuz I can color coordinate the yarn to whatever room my spkrs are in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I read the instruction on the Watco can. Do you have to do this outside and do you need to wear a mask? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhenry Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 The guy I bought my Klipschorns from had pieces of glass cut to the shape of the top and gave those to me, so little risk of top damage. I'll bet with the right type of glass those would help with the sun fading problem, if you did it from the start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mungkiman Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I'm only using the steel wool on the outer-wood surfaces - the ones that show. I'm not near any of the speaker or electrical components. And after I am done with the steel wool to simultaneously strip old matter and reapply new oil, I wipe it all down with a cloth. So no chance of any bits of steel drying on the wood and making their way into anything they could damage. The steel wool is very fine, akin to 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Brass wool is a nice alternative for projects where you might use steel wool. If any bits of brass are left behind, they won't rust, and for speaker projects, they aren't influenced by magnets. Available at many paint stores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I read the instruction on the Watco can. Do you have to do this outside and do you need to wear a mask? DJ, Use a room with good ventilation or the garage. The length of time you will be exposed to anything harmful to do a pair of speakers is not significant. But DO dispose of the used rags as directed. You don't want any spontaneous combustion burning down your house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 My Belle's are sun faded, they are Lacquered Rosewood. Any suggestions for fading? I'd love to have them look as good as the insides of the tops. I will not sand them though, they are in to good of shape for that, just unevenly faded a bit. I can live with it, but if there was an easy was to return them to the original color, id try it. For my Cornwalls, I have been using real, all natural Tung Oil with great success. I like it a lot better than lemon oil. if you mean they have a laquer clear coat then a stain or watco/howards type oils will not do much if anything for them. the wood is sealed by the laquer & would need to be sanded to restain the wood. it might suck up a little color if the laquer is dried out but i wouldnt want to oil laquered or poly coated woods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 My Belle's are sun faded, they are Lacquered Rosewood. Any suggestions for fading? I'd love to have them look as good as the insides of the tops. I will not sand them though, they are in to good of shape for that, just unevenly faded a bit. I can live with it, but if there was an easy was to return them to the original color, id try it. For my Cornwalls, I have been using real, all natural Tung Oil with great success. I like it a lot better than lemon oil. my wife knitted, yes knitted, some small "rugs" to place on top of mine. it's nice cuz I can color coordinate the yarn to whatever room my spkrs are in. Ah...... doilies 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cantilope Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 My Belle's are sun faded, they are Lacquered Rosewood. Any suggestions for fading? I'd love to have them look as good as the insides of the tops. I will not sand them though, they are in to good of shape for that, just unevenly faded a bit. I can live with it, but if there was an easy was to return them to the original color, id try it. For my Cornwalls, I have been using real, all natural Tung Oil with great success. I like it a lot better than lemon oil. if you mean they have a laquer clear coat then a stain or watco/howards type oils will not do much if anything for them. the wood is sealed by the laquer & would need to be sanded to restain the wood. it might suck up a little color if the laquer is dried out but i wouldnt want to oil laquered or poly coated woods. Looks like I'll try the doilies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mungkiman Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 My Belle's are sun faded, they are Lacquered Rosewood. Any suggestions for fading? I'd love to have them look as good as the insides of the tops. I will not sand them though, they are in to good of shape for that, just unevenly faded a bit. I can live with it, but if there was an easy was to return them to the original color, id try it. Personally, I'd try Liberon Black Bison paste wax, either neutral, or tinted. Some furniture restorers/conservators swear by this stuff. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 (edited) Personally, I'd try Liberon Black Bison paste wax, either neutral, or tinted. Some furniture restorers/conservators swear by this stuff. doesnt klipsch say to not use wax on the oiled finishes? thought i read that in the heritage speakers manual. Edited February 25, 2015 by klipschfancf4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angusruler Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 next time you funny guys get water rings on yer spkrs.....think about the rugs i have on the top of mine, oh, and the same beautiful finish from day one after all my work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mungkiman Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Personally, I'd try Liberon Black Bison paste wax, either neutral, or tinted. Some furniture restorers/conservators swear by this stuff. doesnt klipsch say to not use wax on the oiled finishes? thought i read that in the heritage speakers manual. My suggestion was only for the sun-bleached lacquered Rosewood Belles that Cantilope mentioned, previously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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