colterphoto1 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 I read the instruction on the Watco can. Do you have to do this outside and do you need to wear a mask? It's a little stinky but not hazardous. Nothing compared to the BLO at the factory. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 (edited) best finish i got was straight BLO and 2nd coat Watco 3rd coat BLO and 4th coat Watco, using steel wool between each coat this combo brought out more of the deep blacks in the walnut where using each one by itself did not, or i just got lucky Edited February 25, 2015 by Budman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 (edited) wow budman, those do look very nice. but how was the finish to start with? if you see my pics the one top is very faded, almost to an oak color compared to the other one. i appreciate the suggestions though & will be experimenting very soon. Edited February 25, 2015 by klipschfancf4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 My Belle's are sun faded, they are Lacquered Rosewood. Any suggestions for fading? I'd love to have them look as good as the insides of the tops. I will not sand them though, they are in to good of shape for that, just unevenly faded a bit. I can live with it, but if there was an easy was to return them to the original color, id try it. Personally, I'd try Liberon Black Bison paste wax, either neutral, or tinted. Some furniture restorers/conservators swear by this stuff. After talking with the man who made the cabinets in my house I was re instructed that one can use Tung oil over lacquer as it is a "drying oil" just like lacquer as opposed to a "penetrating oil" like Watco or BLO. So maybe some Tung oil rubbed in would help your sun faded lacquer finish. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TasDom Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 I used BLO on my Belle's. Wiped on with a soft lint free cloth let dry. Rubbed down with a dry cloth and repeated once again. They were really dried out and faded when I bought them. Boiled linseed oil stinks tho so take that into consideration. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/149144-picked-up-a-little-something-today/page-3#entry1724767 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 After reading this thread, I used Watco followed by Formby's lemon oil treatment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muel Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 I'd revisit them with lemon oil once a year or so. Keeps them looking nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cantilope Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 My Belle's are sun faded, they are Lacquered Rosewood. Any suggestions for fading? I'd love to have them look as good as the insides of the tops. I will not sand them though, they are in to good of shape for that, just unevenly faded a bit. I can live with it, but if there was an easy was to return them to the original color, id try it. Personally, I'd try Liberon Black Bison paste wax, either neutral, or tinted. Some furniture restorers/conservators swear by this stuff. After talking with the man who made the cabinets in my house I was re instructed that one can use Tung oil over lacquer as it is a "drying oil" just like lacquer as opposed to a "penetrating oil" like Watco or BLO. So maybe some Tung oil rubbed in would help your sun faded lacquer finish. I did a light coat of Tung oil and they do look better, actually they look stunning. Can't say that it really got rid of any fading, but they were dry and needed it and its not as visible. If your curious Tung oil or China wood oil is an all natural drying oil obtained by pressing the seed from the nut of the tung tree (Vernicia fordii). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 I did a light coat of Tung oil and they do look better, actually they look stunning. Can't say that it really got rid of any fading, but they were dry and needed it and its not as visible. If your curious Tung oil or China wood oil is an all natural drying oil obtained by pressing the seed from the nut of the tung tree (Vernicia fordii). Cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCB1725 Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Greetings, I retired this year after 40 years as a wood finisher. Perhaps I can be of some help here. Ask away if you wish to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 (edited) Greetings, I retired this year after 40 years as a wood finisher. Perhaps I can be of some help here. Ask away if you wish to. welcome. i have a few unanswered questions posted on this & another recent thread. answer away if you wish to. whats best to clean oiled finishes with? whats products do you use for maint & minor restore? what is best to use on a laquer finish? any other suggestions im sure others can use. Edited February 27, 2015 by klipschfancf4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 After reading this thread, I used Watco followed by Formby's lemon oil treatment. Beautiful. Great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 best finish i got was straight BLO and 2nd coat Watco 3rd coat BLO and 4th coat Watco, using steel wool between each coat this combo brought out more of the deep blacks in the walnut where using each one by itself did not, or i just got lucky So, what type of Watco was this? WMcD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCB1725 Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Greetings, I retired this year after 40 years as a wood finisher. Perhaps I can be of some help here. Ask away if you wish to. welcome. i have a few unanswered questions posted on this & another recent thread. answer away if you wish to. whats best to clean oiled finishes with? whats products do you use for maint & minor restore? what is best to use on a laquer finish? any other suggestions im sure others can use. Well, to be honest oil finishes dont need cleaning as there is not much of a finish to clean. Oil finishes dont build up enough of a coating to need cleaning. They can however benefit from recoating. I read here that some use an Olive oil and this is not a good idea for a few reasons. Olive oil will go rancid...it will attract pests because of the odor they leave behind...it really has no drying agents in it unlike some of the oils that are formulated for wood finishing. Bolied Linseed oil is not the greatest either. Oils that will work on wood are Watco..Old English.. and the "food safe " oil ; Mineral oil. Keep in mind that oil finishes will not create a "build" so it might take a few coats. These types of finishes seep into the pores and if applied correctly, can offer decent protection....If someone would like detailed directions to REALLY rejuvinate an oil finish just ask. The above post is rather basic and will work for most applications . To restore an Oak cabinet that might suffer from a few scratches ( not real deep gouges but minor scratches ) the Old English does a pretty good job. The darker colored Oak Ive seen on some Klipsch case work would benefit from the Dark Old English as it will color the scratch and also offer up some protection to the wood. Again...oils dont build up, so a few coats might be in order. If you have a deep scratch there are wax sticks you can buy at a Home Depot type of store. They come in a few different colors too. In a pinch you could use a Crayola which matches the wood color. A trick old timers used to use ( maybe some still do ) is a Walnut or a Pecan. Rub it briskley into the dent. The oils in the nuts and the meat of the nuts fill and color the void all at once. Obviously if Fido has chewed the corner this wont really work but in a pinch it does a decent job. When working with any oil finish, remember to soak the rags in water as they can combust. Cleaning a Lacquer coating ( not stripping but cleaning ) can be done with either Paint Thinner or Naptha. Neither of those solvents will attack the Lacquer. Dont use Acetone or Lacquer Thinner or any "hot" solvent as it will make a mess of the coating. If you have to clean fingerprints a cotton rag moistened with water and Ivory soap will work just fine. Ive seen a few, Super High Gloss coatings on speaker cabinets and most likely they are a Polyester or CV coating. They can also be cleaned with P/T or Naptha. These need a professionals touch should they become scratched and unless someone is skilled and has the proper materials to proceed with a touch-up, Id stay clear of this type of repair. Hope this information has been of help. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Steven1963 Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 (edited) Greetings, I retired this year after 40 years as a wood finisher. Perhaps I can be of some help here. Ask away if you wish to. welcome. i have a few unanswered questions posted on this & another recent thread. answer away if you wish to. whats best to clean oiled finishes with? whats products do you use for maint & minor restore? what is best to use on a laquer finish? any other suggestions im sure others can use. Well, to be honest oil finishes dont need cleaning as there is not much of a finish to clean. Oil finishes dont build up enough of a coating to need cleaning. They can however benefit from recoating. I read here that some use an Olive oil and this is not a good idea for a few reasons. Olive oil will go rancid...it will attract pests because of the odor they leave behind...it really has no drying agents in it unlike some of the oils that are formulated for wood finishing. Bolied Linseed oil is not the greatest either. Oils that will work on wood are Watco..Old English.. and the "food safe " oil ; Mineral oil. Keep in mind that oil finishes will not create a "build" so it might take a few coats. These types of finishes seep into the pores and if applied correctly, can offer decent protection....If someone would like detailed directions to REALLY rejuvinate an oil finish just ask. The above post is rather basic and will work for most applications . To restore an Oak cabinet that might suffer from a few scratches ( not real deep gouges but minor scratches ) the Old English does a pretty good job. The darker colored Oak Ive seen on some Klipsch case work would benefit from the Dark Old English as it will color the scratch and also offer up some protection to the wood. Again...oils dont build up, so a few coats might be in order. If you have a deep scratch there are wax sticks you can buy at a Home Depot type of store. They come in a few different colors too. In a pinch you could use a Crayola which matches the wood color. A trick old timers used to use ( maybe some still do ) is a Walnut or a Pecan. Rub it briskley into the dent. The oils in the nuts and the meat of the nuts fill and color the void all at once. Obviously if Fido has chewed the corner this wont really work but in a pinch it does a decent job. When working with any oil finish, remember to soak the rags in water as they can combust. Cleaning a Lacquer coating ( not stripping but cleaning ) can be done with either Paint Thinner or Naptha. Neither of those solvents will attack the Lacquer. Dont use Acetone or Lacquer Thinner or any "hot" solvent as it will make a mess of the coating. If you have to clean fingerprints a cotton rag moistened with water and Ivory soap will work just fine. Ive seen a few, Super High Gloss coatings on speaker cabinets and most likely they are a Polyester or CV coating. They can also be cleaned with P/T or Naptha. These need a professionals touch should they become scratched and unless someone is skilled and has the proper materials to proceed with a touch-up, Id stay clear of this type of repair. Hope this information has been of help. This is fantastic information and you are a wealth of knowledge that this community could certainly benefit from. Thanks for joining the forums....Welcome! Since you are retired perhaps you have some free time and would be willing to put together a thread that details the best/proper care of Klipsch speakers for the type of woods/finishes they use? I'm sure a thread like that would be extremely popular and would be deserved of a 'pinned' at the top of the 'General Klipsch Questions & Info' forum. Edited February 27, 2015 by Steven1963 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 (edited) best finish i got was straight BLO and 2nd coat Watco 3rd coat BLO and 4th coat Watco, using steel wool between each coat this combo brought out more of the deep blacks in the walnut where using each one by itself did not, or i just got lucky So, what type of Watco was this? WMcD Watco danish oil ( Natural ) Edited February 27, 2015 by Budman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 (edited) RCB: can you elaborate on the cleaning of oil finishes. as with any surface, over the years dirt does build up as well as grease & residue from being touched, smoke build up, etc. so before re-oiling or if light sanding is needed for minor restoration or repair, what do you suggest using to clean them? i have heard everything from paint thinner/mineral spirits to murphys oil soap to a mild detergent on a dampened rag. curious what your opinion is on murphys, many here hate the stuff. how do we clean dirt & non wanted oils & residue from these oil finish speakers? Edited February 27, 2015 by klipschfancf4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Olive oil will go rancid.. Is this a problem as far as being on some wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 .it really has no drying agents in it unlike some of the oils that are formulated for wood finishing. One reason why I like it... the shine it gives lasts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCB1725 Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 RCB: can you elaborate on the cleaning of oil finishes. as with any surface, over the years dirt does build up as well as grease & residue from being touched, smoke build up, etc. so before re-oiling or if light sanding is needed for minor restoration or repair, what do you suggest using to clean them? i have heard everything from paint thinner/mineral spirits to murphys oil soap to a mild detergent on a dampened rag. curious what your opinion is on murphys, many here hate the stuff. how do we clean dirt & non wanted oils & residue from these oil finish speakers? Even though the factory oil finish has dried...trying to clean it with a solvent like Paint Thinner or Naptha will only reamalgamate the original coating...in other words it just may remove it. If your just wanting to do a minor cleaning and not remove stains a damp rag works. Obviously.. oil and water dont mix so by doing it this way wont harm the oil finish that Klipsch applied. It simply cleans whats sitting on the finish...the dust/finger prints etc.... If you have some oil fading or other types of " stuff " that the water wont remove I would suggest re-oiling the entire side or top. To do this you can apply the oil and carefully wet sand it with 320/400 Silicone Carbide Paper. Apply the oil and block sand with the grain until youve done the entire surface. If you try and do a small area you may or may not end up with a halo. Thats why I suggest doing the entire area . If there is a real small area that needs attention you can try just that area but if its bigger than say a Silver Dollar, do the whole side/top. As far as Murphys goes Google the MSDS. Personally speaking ??? eh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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