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Custom Senergy F-3 enclosures and crossovers...


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lets say your woofer is 8 ohms. two of those wired in series makes a 16 ohm load and two of those dual series wired 8 ohm driver sets wired in parallel. will take you back to a total load of 8 ohms. Here is what I think you need to listen to a set of real loudspeakers like a set of Cornwal or Cornwall ll or LaScala. that might change your mindset. Best regards Moray James. see if you can find a local member to give you a listen.

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I understand what a difference high end speakers can make. But I have no desire to spend that kind of money. I'm happy with what my system does now. I only decided to do this for a winter project to see how well I could make it look and sound by buying a few extra cheap speakers and build some really nice enclosures. I have access to cnc routers and a machine shop with a cnc plasma. I am an experienced paint and body man. It will be a combination of wood and steel. I feel I can get a little better sound and appearance and only spend a few hundred bucks and have a one of a kind system. I'll post pics of the completed project and I will give you an honest review on whether it works or not.

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Are you looking to customize something like these.  I think a custom enclosures could be a good way to go.  It adds personalization to your system.  Also, make sure your specs are on point for ports if you are gonna use them and your ohm ratios don't drop low and overwork/burn out you receiver. 

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Simply stated, crossovers can be simple or complex, but regardless of which, they are modeled using the electrical and mechanical parameters of the drivers being used. You're climbing an uphill battle here unless you have modeling software and have all of the information related to your drivers.

Check out the kits at Parts Express. This place is about 20 minutes from my house and I've heard most these relatively inexpensive kits, and they all sound amazing for the money.

Edited by Crankysoldermeister
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  • 2 weeks later...

Don't dare ask for help and mess anything up by accident. You'll get a bunch of elitist pricks jumping down your throat about it.

 

 

That typically only happens when someone asks for advise and ignores it. 

 

You've had several members truly trying to help you in your other thread.  Calling members elitist pricks on the open forum is typically not the best way to go about seeking assistance. 

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I hope you guys don't think I was ignoring you! The only reason I quit responding is the page kept freezing up every time I tried. I tried for several days to post and finally gave up. I appreciate all the advice I've received from all of you, Thank you!

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You probably shouldn't have purchased the new drivers until after you had your new design hammered out, which isn't going to work out the way you think. Increasing the cabinet volume changes the port tuning, which isn't exactly the end of the world, but it does need to be dealt with - the port(s) will be different. Like Moray explained, when you add the woofers, the impedance will drop - and will probably trigger the protection circuitry of your receiver. Klipsch has a habit of running 4 ohm woofers, and two in parallel is 2 ohms, which is a tough load for just about any amp. But impedance fluctuates with frequency, and those woofers are probably only dipping low in a narrow part of their range, which is how Klipsch gets away with it. However, if you wire four of those drivers in parallel, you're at 1 ohm or lower, and your receiver probably won't even turn on - so what about wiring them in series, does that work? No, because that would be 16 ohms, and what you need is roughly something closer to 4 ohms so you can get by with using the original networks (it won't be perfect or ideal, but in the ballpark). So, what you need to do is a combination wiring scheme - using both parallel and series connections.

I personally think you should send the drivers back to Klipsch and sell what you have and buy a nice kit or two.

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Here you go!

I do need to add a word of caution - this presumes that this is a 4 ohm driver. Without the T/S parameters or some kind of spec sheet, it's just a guess.

post-1106-0-60540000-1426721954_thumb.jp

Edited by Crankysoldermeister
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