Fizik Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 (edited) I had been looking for a subwoofer locally for a while and nothing was really showing up, so I decided to just build my own. I decided to build two dual 12 in vented subs and sell one off to cover the cost of mine. I found a great deal on some brand new a stock drivers from Epik. They appeared to be leftover drivers form when they were still doing business. The drivers had great reviews, it was their amps that seemed to have issue. They have 22mm xmax one way and can handle roughly 600 rms each. They turn out fantastic and sound amazing, but still need more time to break in. No strange vibrations or resonance and no vent noise either. I used a 3/4in oak veneered plywood for the outside, stained black and coated in many coats of a satin polyurethane. They ended up matching my RF-5's quite nicely. MDF was used for the vents and the vents are flared both inside and out to reduce the risk of noise. I don't have a windows computer so thankfully "Mustang Guy" helped me out with what cu ft I'd need for the drivers and what vent size I would need. I took those numbers and designed the boxes form there. With the specs from the drivers, the program thought one dual 12 sub should put out about 118db at 21hz without reaching xmax. The boxes were glued and sealed with PL premium (messy stuff but works well), lined with an acoustic foam, and the subs were bolted in using t-nuts to keep them nice and snug. They were also allowed to sit for about a week while the glue and poly cured before the subs were installed. One box I built is more typical in design, roughly the size and shape of the JL Fathom F212. The other one I did as something more unique. It's a hexagonal box with two smaller vents off to the sides. It look more like an end table and from the back you'd think that's what it was until you saw the drivers. Its more pictures that the forum allows being linked to, so here's a finished photo, and the link to the photo bucket album. Photobucket Link Edited September 22, 2015 by Fizik 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Nice! It seems that there's a lot of Epik drivers finding new homes. HERE'S what I did with some. Where did you find TS parameters? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TasDom Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Nice work! I like the design on this one you did. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizik Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Nice! It seems that there's a lot of Epik drivers finding new homes. HERE'S what I did with some. Where did you find TS parameters? The parameters were in the listing for the drivers. Sd 494 cm^2 Pmax 1000 W Mms 230 g Cms 197 uM/N Vas 69 L Fs 23 Hz BL 22 Qms 3.13 Qes 0.25 Qts 0.25 Le 3.15 mH Spl 87.9 1W/1M Xmax 22 mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ceptorman Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 WOW….those are beautiful. Great craftsmanship. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizik Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Nice work! I like the design on this one you did. Me too, Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teaman Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Beautiful work. I am contemplating something similar for myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizik Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Beautiful work. I am contemplating something similar for myself. I'd say its easy, just time consuming as long as you have the skills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 That must have been the closeout. I seem to remember that. Nice of them to have provided that information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K5SS Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Now the real question.. How much for a flat-pack shipped to 98033? Those look fantastic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Nice! It seems that there's a lot of Epik drivers finding new homes. HERE'S what I did with some. Where did you find TS parameters? The parameters were in the listing for the drivers. Sd 494 cm^2 Pmax 1000 W Mms 230 g Cms 197 uM/N Vas 69 L Fs 23 Hz BL 22 Qms 3.13 Qes 0.25 Qts 0.25 Le 3.15 mH Spl 87.9 1W/1M Xmax 22 mm Carl, I don't think these are the same drivers we have. I can't give you the T/S, but I can measure the sub and give you that information. Mine is still sitting on the floor all apart. I will probably just buy a bash and boost the 20-24Hz region with a couple different resistors in R25 and R26. From what I understand, the original amp was boosted down there, and it has been suggested that is why they have heat issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizik Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 Now the real question.. How much for a flat-pack shipped to 98033? Those look fantastic! Interesting thought. Hadn't considered that until now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Nice looking subs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 I don't think these are the same drivers we have. They are definitely different than the Epik drivers we have. I don't need TS as mine are already in a box. I was just curious. I seem to remember them posting T/S parameters when they were blowing out their stock but had forgotten about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 I will probably just buy a bash and boost the 20-24Hz region with a couple different resistors in R25 and R26. From what I understand, the original amp was boosted down there, and it has been suggested that is why they have heat issues. You might try it stock before you mod the amp. The 500 watt bash pounds them and really isn't lacking for HT stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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