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Those look 10x better in Birch!  Excellent weather for doing this work.  So your neighbor's gonna pay for the reconing?  I mean finance the job, not get punched in the nuts.....

The damage could possibly be repaired with tissue paper and glue.  I would try to repair first before replacing anything.

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Of course being Friday the 13th doesn't scare me! My neighbor came by to see how it was going. He decided he wanted to take a pic of both woofers and proceeded to drop his phone into the woofer that was sprayed. I'm guessing this is going to need to be re-coned. Who would I use here in Chicago?Jason?

AY CARUMBA!

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Thats snow, he didn't offer to pay for the re-cone, Colter and a couple other guys said light coats have no effect. I thought it might be repairable but I'm not the one to try and fix it. I might have to have Jason or OPUS give it a go. New woofers from Klipsch $129+shipping re-cone kits from speaker whatever is $70 plus having it installed. I need to check with Colter to see if he has any cones or kits in his inventory. Of course this will be the one thing he doesn't have

I'm just pissed.

 

Mark

Edited by ZEUS121996
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Of course being Friday the 13th doesn't scare me! My neighbor came by to see how it was going. He decided he wanted to take a pic of both woofers and proceeded to drop his phone into the woofer that was sprayed. I'm guessing this is going to need to be re-coned. Who would I use here in Chicago?Jason?

If you are thinking that you will re cone why not attempt a repair first can all be done from the back side. That way your drivers still match if you go the recone routs then you really need to do both so they match because they won't otherwise. Best regards Moray James.

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back in my former life when I was installing car stereos, a guy I worked with sprayed bed liner on a passive sub to stiffen it up. seemed to work really well for his application, don't know how it would work on a regular woofer though.

That is a VERY BAD IDEA. For many reasons.

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Bedliner was never an option, I repaired 1 woofer a couple years back, and it held up well. I was going to go with paper glue. I just used white paper glue and some thinner business type of papers to make that repair. Can someone give me a link for K-33 Woofer repair, since a search turns up a ton of threads but none that really addresstheproblem

 

TY

 

Mark

Edited by ZEUS121996
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That birch is going to be covered with walnut veneer. And I decided todo all sides in walnut so it will remain  a decorator. I'm also putting some magnets under the veneer (from PE) and then the grills will have magnets, resulting hopefully in a (floating) grill

Of course most of the work will have to be done privately so no more idiots trash the cabs. BTW, if I put the magnets in under the veneer, would a row of 3 magnets at the top, middle, and bottom hold the grill on tight?

 

 

TY

 

Mark

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Can someone give me a link for K-33 Woofer repair

Here are a couple:

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/42134-forte-ii-problemgotta-love-them-cats/?hl=%2Bwoofer+%2Btissue+%2Bglue#entry390427

 

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/21808-forte-ii-torn-passive/?hl=%2Bwoofer+%2Btissue+%2Bglue#entry177480

 

I'd go with their suggestions but use this glue, only because I've had good success with woofer tears using it.  CA (super) glue works but, depending on its thickness, can get messy and leak around quickly.
 

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Bedliner was never an option, I repaired 1 woofer a couple years back, and it help up well. I was going to go with paper glue. I just used white paper glue and some thinner business type of papers to make that repair. Can someone give me a link for K-33 Woofer repair, since a search turns up a ton of threads but none that really addresstheproblem

 

TY

 

Mark

A layer of coffee filter paper (on the inside of the cone) about one inch larger than the damaged area(1/2" edge overlap) Work the cone back into shape as smoothly as you can a light but wet layer of PVA adhesive (white wood glue) on the cone and the same on the patch and then work the patch into place smooth it out and wipe off any excess adhesive when done. This will leave your cone as close to new as possible and I doubt you will hear any difference between it and the undamaged woofer provided there was no coil damage. This is easy cheap and fast to do you will be playing the woofer in 24 hours. Hope this helps. Best regards Moray James. PS: this method adds just enough strength to your cone (after structural damage) yet keeps things light. Just treating the torn edges to make a repair is not enough the cone is still left damaged you must repair both the tear and the cone.

Edited by moray james
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Dennis has posted (and I have used) using Weldbond. It stays flexible and dries clear. You can thin it some with water, too. The same as Moray's directions, but with the glue thinned out some you can do two or three coats.

 

I've repaired surrounds with this glue and it works extremely well.

 

http://www.dickblick.com/products/weldbond-universal-adhesive/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=23819-1105&gclid=CKyZ4dW5psQCFYNDaQodzLsAgg

 

You can get this lots of different places.

 

I also noticed it looks like a small hole in the surround on one of those woofers. You can use it on those too, thinned out as before. A small piece of the coffee filter paper will also work there.

 

Yes, this could/might change the compliance, but you will never hear the difference at all. This is also a PVA glue, but I like it better than the white wood glue.

 

And lastly, the neighbor should pay up. It's something that cost money.

 

Bruce

Edited by Marvel
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The birch looks great. There's a couple of really bad patches of wood, corners, edges and a couple other bad spots. Do I router the edges all the way around and putty the bad spots or bondo and veneer in Walnut as planned?

 

TY

 

Mark

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Edited by ZEUS121996
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