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Restoration Project: GE Console Gutting & Heresy


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If the circuit boards have cracks in them, they are probably a phenolic/paper. Depending on the complexity of the layout, they could be epoxied and strengthened, and all the traces jumpered with bare wire soldered on the traces. That would pita, but it could be done.

 

As an aside, a friend of mine had a Fender amp that had a crack in one of the PCBs. When the amp heated up, the board would flex, breaking the circuit in different spots. That was annoying until he got it fixed.

 

Bruce

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Michael,

 

I did as much research as possible given the part number you provided. Incidentally, I think the part number should be RC78398CL-A rather than..."BCL-A". That is a part number that pops up for replacement needles, and may be the part number for the turntable component of the console.

 

I am a member of radiomuseum.org, and if you can get me more information, I can probably help you out. If you can get a camera in there and take some pictures of model numbers and part numbers. Similar amp sections were used in many of the consoles over the decades. That amp may show up in 20 different console models. It would be great to have that amp part number!

 

Also, for the folks here who are good at reverse engineering networks, take some pictures of the circuits leading to the drivers. That way, if you need to use a passive network like an AA, you can tweak it to the crossover points in the original.

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The record changer you have is the GE Trimline. It is technically a Glaser-Steers with fewer features as GE purchased the company. Replacement cartridges, styli, and rebuilt idler wheels and motor mounts available from Gary Stork at V-M Audio Enthusiasts in Michigan. Website is www.thevoiceofmusic.com. 

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That does have the "B" in it. 

 

Since it's a newer photofact, relatively, you cannot download it for free due to copyright laws. Only models copyrighted prior to 1964 belong to the public domain. You have to buy hard copies of newer photofacts unless you download the digital one directly from SAMS. The Schematic Man will sell you a hard copy of your photofact for $8.95 with free delivery if you want to save $14, and you don't mind waiting.

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Will do that mustang.  I certainly don't mind waiting.  After all, this thing has needed service since I was born.  A few more weeks shouldn't be too much of a strain. :)

 

Kent, thanks for passing that along about the turntable parts.  I'll definitely be looking into that.

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I did get some pics taken yesterday.  I'll have time to actually take the amp out of the console maybe Sunday or Monday.  I've been doing all of this in the middle of spring cleaning and other renovations to both houses (we own two on two acre lots).  One thing to note mustang, is the BLC-A is listed on the serial number and model number on the back of the console.

 

We certainly have plenty of sticky gooey wires and some horrifically nasty tube covers.  Even the power cord is nasty.

 

I'll be posting all pics HERE.

 

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I saw that the other day on the bay.

My biggest problem to overcome would be where to put the second "less-than-perfect" one until it could be resold off. The other thing I have to wonder about, is if after shipping (the unit is about 150 lbs I'm estimating) if it'd be worth the cost to buy it, have it shipped, and take it apart...or if it'd be more worth the time to just try and find the parts for the innards.

What would your thoughts be?

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I'd go totally new school on it with all new components under the hood.  A sleeper console if you would.  Everything you see would be retro and everything hidden modern, but that's just me.  I'd even suspend a low profile sub under it if possible.  I suppose I'm not much of a purist though.

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No worries Carl. That was my original intent actually, but I am just as excited at the thought of fixing with original parts. The added benefit would be I wouldn't have to explain the new features to my grandma. That's my backup plan if all else fails, but I have faith in the old school guys here and don't foresee them steering my wrong. :)

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My thoughts were along the same lines as Carl, but I was thinking about the amplifier section and the crossovers, and leaving the rest stock. And no sub, since the woofers in that thing are probably tuned fairly well for the unit. You would need to be modest with an amp, because the speakers may not be able to handle much. When you get a Sams, you can discern the power output, and if it can't be repaired, buy a like-sized amp. Perhaps even a tube amp from an older console.

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