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Bondo for La Scala cabs?


jimjimbo

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There seem to be all kinds of types of Bondo, specifically numbered, 261, 907, 312, etc, etc....Is there one that is more appropriate than others to use on birch cabs?  Are there any that DON'T require mixing a hardening agent?  Want to keep it as simple as possible.  This will be applied to bare wood, sanded, then Duratex.  Thanks for any help.

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dont use automotive bondos on wood. & they all require a hardener.

 

use the correct wood filler.  i think DAP makes a very good one available at any menards or home depot type store.  its easily sandable & doesnt use a hardener. some say they are even stainable but obviously will still be visible as the veneer is gone on any hole you are filling. 

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Original Bondo is great stuff, #262 with Hardner.

Clearly stated for use on can, Wood, Fiberglass, Metals, (im reading the can in front of me).

On a personal level, iv been using it for over 40 years.

A quart from the Depot will set you back maybe $10+ bucks, mix up 1/2 Oz and play with it on a piece of scrap, then do it again playing with the amount of hardner you put in it.

You will get an idea of how long you can work it before it goes off.

The best clean up for this and ANY Resin product is Acetone. 

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Greg Roberts of Volti Audio uses this product for wood restorations :
voltiaudio@gmail.com

 

-Minwax Hi-Performance Wood Filler. - here is one of his Khorn restorations - http://www.klipschupgrades.com/mkhorn.shtml

 

He said this and I quote   : The repairs made with this filler are stronger than the wood, and they do not chip off like the wood edges.

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-12-oz-High-Performance-Wood-Filler-21600/100376245

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Bondo auto body filler is the way to go, 2 part epoxy.

 

Wood filler is ok for small nail holes, nicks and such but if you are repairing a corner or rebuilding an edge use Bondo.

do you have one brand in mind - and how much would you need to do a full pair of scalas in a bad shape   -is there such a thing as bondo that you dont have to mix with hardener -   kinda like - just open the can and use -or no -

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Greg Roberts of Volti Audio uses this product for wood restorations :

voltiaudio@gmail.com

 

-Minwax Hi-Performance Wood Filler. - here is one of his Khorn restorations - http://www.klipschupgrades.com/mkhorn.shtml

 

He said this and I quote   : The repairs made with this filler are stronger than the wood, and they do not chip off like the wood edges.

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-12-oz-High-Performance-Wood-Filler-21600/100376245

 

 

Products like that would be fine for a " stained " restoration project but for a paint grade finish there are much better products available.

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Bondo auto body filler is the way to go, 2 part epoxy.

 

Wood filler is ok for small nail holes, nicks and such but if you are repairing a corner or rebuilding an edge use Bondo.

do you have one brand in mind - and how much would you need to do a full pair of scalas in a bad shape   -is there such a thing as bondo that you dont have to mix with hardener -   kinda like - just open the can and use -or no -

 

 

 

 No. Bondo is meant to be painted over be it a car or a piece of wood or fiberglass. All Bondo needs a hardener to complete the chemical reaction to take place . No hardener means no dry for ever or ever Amen.

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Bondo auto body filler is the way to go, 2 part epoxy.

 

Wood filler is ok for small nail holes, nicks and such but if you are repairing a corner or rebuilding an edge use Bondo.

do you have one brand in mind

I use Bondo brand personally

 

- and how much would you need to do a full pair of scalas in a bad shape 

One quart should be enough for 2 badly damaged cabinets with some leftover for other projects

 

  -is there such a thing as bondo that you dont have to mix with hardener

Its a 2 part epoxy resin so no

 

-   kinda like - just open the can and use -or no -

 

The stuff has a long shelf life so don't be afraid of getting a bigger size

 

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dont use automotive bondos on wood. & they all require a hardener.

 

use the correct wood filler.  i think DAP makes a very good one available at any menards or home depot type store.  its easily sandable & doesnt use a hardener. some say they are even stainable but obviously will still be visible as the veneer is gone on any hole you are filling. 

 Bondo is just a generic name for product that requires a hardener ...just like Epoxy which without a hardener will never dry/cure. Its been used on all types of surfaces that will be painted. A skilled Furniture Restorer will also use a Bondo type product on an unpainted ( stained ) surface but it will require graining and extensive color touch up. Other products like Shellac Burn In Sticks can be used as well but again.. they will require the knowledge to make the repair completely invisible to the naked eye. In short...a Bondo type product will suffice for a painted finish.

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Bondo auto body filler is the way to go, 2 part epoxy.

 

Wood filler is ok for small nail holes, nicks and such but if you are repairing a corner or rebuilding an edge use Bondo.

do you have one brand in mind

I use Bondo brand personally

 

- and how much would you need to do a full pair of scalas in a bad shape 

One quart should be enough for 2 badly damaged cabinets with some leftover for other projects

 

  -is there such a thing as bondo that you dont have to mix with hardener

Its a 2 part epoxy resin so no

 

-   kinda like - just open the can and use -or no -

 

The stuff has a long shelf life so don't be afraid of getting a bigger size

 

 

fantastic reply -

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dont use automotive bondos on wood. & they all require a hardener.

 

use the correct wood filler.  i think DAP makes a very good one available at any menards or home depot type store.  its easily sandable & doesnt use a hardener. some say they are even stainable but obviously will still be visible as the veneer is gone on any hole you are filling. 

 Bondo is just a generic name for product that requires a hardener ...just like Epoxy which without a hardener will never dry/cure. Its been used on all types of surfaces that will be painted. A skilled Furniture Restorer will also use a Bondo type product on an unpainted ( stained ) surface but it will require graining and extensive color touch up. Other products like Shellac Burn In Sticks can be used as well but again.. they will require the knowledge to make the repair completely invisible to the naked eye. In short...a Bondo type product will suffice for a painted finish.p

perfect -

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im sure bondo products will work, but in my experience bondo didnt last on wood as long as real wood fillers.  ive been doing auto body & mechanical for 20+ years & automotive type "bondo" products are best used for metal or fiberglass etc. 

 

DAP & other brand wood filler is intended for far bigger "holes" or repairs than just screw holes, have used it on 1/2" deep & 2-3" wide repairs with great results. 

 

but as with everything, each person has their own opinion & preference.  use what you want, just follow the products instructions.

Edited by klipschfancf4
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Bondo auto body filler is the way to go, 2 part epoxy.

 

Wood filler is ok for small nail holes, nicks and such but if you are repairing a corner or rebuilding an edge use Bondo.

how long before the Bondo hardens -

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Bondo auto body filler is the way to go, 2 part epoxy.

 

Wood filler is ok for small nail holes, nicks and such but if you are repairing a corner or rebuilding an edge use Bondo.

how long before the Bondo hardens -

 

Depends on how much hardener you mix in.

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Bondo auto body filler is the way to go, 2 part epoxy.

 

Wood filler is ok for small nail holes, nicks and such but if you are repairing a corner or rebuilding an edge use Bondo.

how long before the Bondo hardens -

 

If your asking this question, then get some and play with it, i assure you after you mix up a couple small batchs, apply it, play with it, smear it around, test the hardness as you play with it, generaly the more "Redness" the hotter you have mixed it.

A slight "Pink" color will buy you 15 to 20 min workable time, the darker red, the faster the set up.

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My "Preferd Bedliner" after testing everything on the market over the years is http://www.ebay.com/itm/UPOL-Raptor-Black-Spray-On-Truck-Bed-Liner-Kit-U-Pol-UPO820-FREE-SHIPPING-/131416297749?hash=item1e99059115&item=131416297749&vxp=mtr

 

This "Kit" is nice because they include the spray gun, Acetone clean up.

After 5 years, i still have two full bottles left, and that is after three pairs of speakers.

This U-Pol is a tad on the "Slippery side" not the sticky rubbery feeling you get from most Bedliners when dry.

Edited by minermark
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dont use automotive bondos on wood. & they all require a hardener.

 

use the correct wood filler.  i think DAP makes a very good one available at any menards or home depot type store.  its easily sandable & doesnt use a hardener. some say they are even stainable but obviously will still be visible as the veneer is gone on any hole you are filling.

You are WRONG on this, If you are going to paint or veneer, Bondo is far superior to wood filler and it does not shrink nearly as much.

Roger

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Greg Roberts of Volti Audio uses this product for wood restorations :

voltiaudio@gmail.com

 

-Minwax Hi-Performance Wood Filler. - here is one of his Khorn restorations - http://www.klipschupgrades.com/mkhorn.shtml

 

He said this and I quote   : The repairs made with this filler are stronger than the wood, and they do not chip off like the wood edges.

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-12-oz-High-Performance-Wood-Filler-21600/100376245

Maybe you have not been here long enough to know, but Greg started out on this FORUM right here and learned most of his speaker information right here on these pages from others here. Same goes for his woodworking skills, trial and error on veneer right here on these pages and learned about different veneer techniques and bubbled some of his first veneers right here! While I remain very impressed with his skill that he has achieved with veneer, I think he is overpriced on his work, but he gets the money he asks for.... A quote from PT Barnum comes to mind here. I worked in a custom cabinets shop for years, then later, a custom laminate shop and can tell you that greg has done some good woodworking, but I surely would not quote him here as some sort of a definitive answer to anything except veneer work.

Roger

Edited by twistedcrankcammer
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