twistedcrankcammer Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 im sure bondo products will work, but in my experience bondo didnt last on wood as long as real wood fillers. ive been doing auto body & mechanical for 20+ years & automotive type "bondo" products are best used for metal or fiberglass etc. DAP & other brand wood filler is intended for far bigger "holes" or repairs than just screw holes, have used it on 1/2" deep & 2-3" wide repairs with great results. but as with everything, each person has their own opinion & preference. use what you want, just follow the products instructions. Did many years of daily professional woodworking for a living... Bondo is better for painting AND laminate work from Formica to Veneer work! Roger 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCB1725 Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 im sure bondo products will work, but in my experience bondo didnt last on wood as long as real wood fillers. ive been doing auto body & mechanical for 20+ years & automotive type "bondo" products are best used for metal or fiberglass etc. DAP & other brand wood filler is intended for far bigger "holes" or repairs than just screw holes, have used it on 1/2" deep & 2-3" wide repairs with great results. but as with everything, each person has their own opinion & preference. use what you want, just follow the products instructions. Good point you've brought up. Bondo needs something to grab itself onto.. with the exception of something like a screw hole or real deep gouge. With it being used in an auto body repair the 80 grit sanding pattern is "grip " enough for the Bondo to adhere itself to. On a veneer repair where your only talking a 1/16" it helps to first tap some small brads into the wood and below the surface for the Bondo to grab onto. A 1/2" brad with a head on it will work . On large areas the more brads the merrier. They can be tapped in at an angle to provide extra grab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 dont use automotive bondos on wood. & they all require a hardener. use the correct wood filler. i think DAP makes a very good one available at any menards or home depot type store. its easily sandable & doesnt use a hardener. some say they are even stainable but obviously will still be visible as the veneer is gone on any hole you are filling. Bondo is just a generic name for product that requires a hardener ...just like Epoxy which without a hardener will never dry/cure. Its been used on all types of surfaces that will be painted. A skilled Furniture Restorer will also use a Bondo type product on an unpainted ( stained ) surface but it will require graining and extensive color touch up. Other products like Shellac Burn In Sticks can be used as well but again.. they will require the knowledge to make the repair completely invisible to the naked eye. In short...a Bondo type product will suffice for a painted finish. Bondo is a brand name not a generic name, been around forever. My grandfather showed me how to use it when i was a young boy working in his wood shop. It holds up well laid thick as well, i used it to repair our front door and fill in the deadbolt hole over 30 years ago and you still couldn't tell where it was repaired at one time. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ceptorman Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 It'll work on masonry also, very tough stuff. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCB1725 Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 dont use automotive bondos on wood. & they all require a hardener. use the correct wood filler. i think DAP makes a very good one available at any menards or home depot type store. its easily sandable & doesnt use a hardener. some say they are even stainable but obviously will still be visible as the veneer is gone on any hole you are filling. Bondo is just a generic name for product that requires a hardener ...just like Epoxy which without a hardener will never dry/cure. Its been used on all types of surfaces that will be painted. A skilled Furniture Restorer will also use a Bondo type product on an unpainted ( stained ) surface but it will require graining and extensive color touch up. Other products like Shellac Burn In Sticks can be used as well but again.. they will require the knowledge to make the repair completely invisible to the naked eye. In short...a Bondo type product will suffice for a painted finish. Bondo is a brand name not a generic name, been around forever. My grandfather showed me how to use it when i was a young boy working in his wood shop. It holds up well laid thick as well, i used it to repair our front door and fill in the deadbolt hole over 30 years ago and you still couldn't tell where it was repaired at one time. I stand corrected on my use of the word "generic " when I should have used " brand ".. so many products on the market today that imitate Bondo I labeled it as say ; a Latex Paint instead of being in a class by itself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 (edited) wow, everyones a critic here... im simply stating my experience with using automotive "filler" products on wood, maybe its the type of wood that matters or the particular product used. when i have used "bondo" on some standard pine wood it held great for about 2-3 years, then started to pull away & peel out, you could see the hairline crack start after a year or so. pine is a soft wood & may be different than harder plywoods etc. however when i used a true wood filler, intended for much deeper repairs than just screw holes as mentioned, it has lasted for 15+ years, this was on the same type of pine & also on real oak, not veneers. so, my suggestion was based on what i have found. & as RCB1725 mentioned, auto fillers need a good foundation to "grip", like random orbit 80 grit sanders will leave, or like you always see holes drilled in metals for the "play-dough factory effect". if one just lays it over a smooth wood surface it will not hold as good as it should & could come off in high humidity or stress environments etc. & the comment about. "it says its for wood right on the can"... well, lots of products make all kinds of claims, super glue says its for wood too but would you use that on any wood vs a real wood glue? same with cheap spray paints, says for metal, wood, etc etc... would you spray your car or paint your house with it? no. or, for real fiberglass repair, regular "bondo" says its for fiberglass too, but any real bodyman knows it wont last, you use real fiberglass matting & fiberglass resin for fiberglass work. my apologies to the guys that feel my suggestion was sooo wrong. lighten up, there's more than one way to skin a cat ya know? sheesh! Edited March 29, 2015 by klipschfancf4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted March 29, 2015 Author Share Posted March 29, 2015 Jim, be sure to prime over the Bondo if you go that route, duratex itself does not stick well to the bondo. I prime everything myself but wanted to give a heads up warning so your finished product looks nice and holds up well. Awesome thank you for that! Any specific primer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedcrankcammer Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 im sure bondo products will work, but in my experience bondo didnt last on wood as long as real wood fillers. ive been doing auto body & mechanical for 20+ years & automotive type "bondo" products are best used for metal or fiberglass etc. DAP & other brand wood filler is intended for far bigger "holes" or repairs than just screw holes, have used it on 1/2" deep & 2-3" wide repairs with great results. but as with everything, each person has their own opinion & preference. use what you want, just follow the products instructions. Good point you've brought up. Bondo needs something to grab itself onto.. with the exception of something like a screw hole or real deep gouge. With it being used in an auto body repair the 80 grit sanding pattern is "grip " enough for the Bondo to adhere itself to. On a veneer repair where your only talking a 1/16" it helps to first tap some small brads into the wood and below the surface for the Bondo to grab onto. A 1/2" brad with a head on it will work . On large areas the more brads the merrier. They can be tapped in at an angle to provide extra grab. I call ABSOLUTE BS on you! Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Jim, be sure to prime over the Bondo if you go that route, duratex itself does not stick well to the bondo. I prime everything myself but wanted to give a heads up warning so your finished product looks nice and holds up well. Awesome thank you for that! Any specific primer? I use Rust Oleum fast dry all purpose black. It has a decent spray nozzle and shows any imperfections well when wet so you know where you need to do more sanding & filling after your primer dries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Greg Roberts of Volti Audio uses this product for wood restorations : voltiaudio@gmail.com -Minwax Hi-Performance Wood Filler. - here is one of his Khorn restorations - http://www.klipschupgrades.com/mkhorn.shtml He said this and I quote : The repairs made with this filler are stronger than the wood, and they do not chip off like the wood edges. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-12-oz-High-Performance-Wood-Filler-21600/100376245 You have not been here long enough to know, but Greg started out on this FORUM right here and learned most of his speaker information right here on these pages from others here. Same goes for his woodworking skills, trial and error on veneer right here on these pages and learned about different veneer techniques and bubbled some of his first veneers right here! While I remain very impressed with his skill that he has achieved with veneer, I think he is overpriced on his work, but he gets the money he asks for.... A quote from PT Barnum comes to mind here. I worked in a custom cabinets shop for years, then later, a custom laminate shop and can tell you that greg has done some good woodworking, but I surely would not quote him here as some sort of a definitive answer to anything except veneer work. Roger Hi Roger -Jason - MinerMark - JIM know has all the answer he needs - I also need to restore 3 scala cabs but I will go the route of adding a 1/4 or 3/8 inch raw birch panel to the sides and top - thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Why not try your hand at veneer ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 (edited) Why not try your hand at veneer ? yep . - why not - anything but black paint - thanks for the link Edited March 29, 2015 by Randyh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 I call ABSOLUTE BS on you! Roger really?? well good for you... i call ABSOLUTE JERK on you. please elaborate on what part of my or RCB1725 suggestion/comments are BS??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 (edited) Original Bondo is great stuff, #262 with Hardner. Clearly stated for use on can, Wood, Fiberglass, Metals, (im reading the can in front of me). just curious, but where does #262 say its for wood? i have #262 & #272 (fiberglass reinforced) & neither say for wood anywhere on the can, although #272 does say "household". but they both say for "auto body surfaces" in the instructions, no mention of wood. & BTW, im not doubting anyones opinions or argueing here... nor am i calling "ABSOLUTE BS" on anyone, to do so is quite rude.... just sating what i see on my cans of "bondo" & what has & has not worked for me. no need to get all bent out of shape, the OP asked for suggestions & thats what hes getting. oh, & my can of dap wood filler specifically says for "deep" repairs on all wood types.... Edited March 29, 2015 by klipschfancf4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Am I stepping into a quagmire? I have used Elmer's wood filler for years. At one time there was exterior and interior, but I don't see that any more at HD. I believe it is just their yellow glue with a filler like fine sand. I work it around with a putty knife on a spackling knife to make sure the material gets exposed to air (which is what causes it to solidify). It makes me feel like an "artist." Smile. If there is a really big hole to fix, there may be some shrinkage which requires a second coat. But that is wisdom of ages. The first coat always needs some fixing. Don't think you're going to fix everything in one thick application. I used Bondo on automotive repair years ago. I think it is just epoxy glue with a sand filler. Naturally it sticks to metal and relies on the hardner to solidify. But the Elmer's works very well sticking to wood. Elmer's sands well and is easy to clean up. WMcD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 wow, everyones a critic here... im simply stating my experience with using automotive "filler" products on wood, maybe its the type of wood that matters or the particular product used. when i have used "bondo" on some standard pine wood it held great for about 2-3 years, then started to pull away & peel out, you could see the hairline crack start after a year or so. pine is a soft wood & may be different than harder plywoods etc. however when i used a true wood filler, intended for much deeper repairs than just screw holes as mentioned, it has lasted for 15+ years, this was on the same type of pine & also on real oak, not veneers. so, my suggestion was based on what i have found. & as RCB1725 mentioned, auto fillers need a good foundation to "grip", like random orbit 80 grit sanders will leave, or like you always see holes drilled in metals for the "play-dough factory effect". if one just lays it over a smooth wood surface it will not hold as good as it should & could come off in high humidity or stress environments etc. & the comment about. "it says its for wood right on the can"... well, lots of products make all kinds of claims, super glue says its for wood too but would you use that on any wood vs a real wood glue? same with cheap spray paints, says for metal, wood, etc etc... would you spray your car or paint your house with it? no. or, for real fiberglass repair, regular "bondo" says its for fiberglass too, but any real bodyman knows it wont last, you use real fiberglass matting & fiberglass resin for fiberglass work. my apologies to the guys that feel my suggestion was sooo wrong. lighten up, there's more than one way to skin a cat ya know? sheesh! "or, for real fiberglass repair, regular "bondo" says its for fiberglass too, but any real bodyman knows it wont last, you use real fiberglass matting & fiberglass resin for fiberglass work." Read THE CAN, i think you will see what Bondo is made of, RESIN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 (edited) Original Bondo is great stuff, #262 with Hardner. Clearly stated for use on can, Wood, Fiberglass, Metals, (im reading the can in front of me). just curious, but where does #262 say its for wood? i have #262 & #272 (fiberglass reinforced) & neither say for wood anywhere on the can, although #272 does say "household". but they both say for "auto body surfaces" in the instructions, no mention of wood. & BTW, im not doubting anyones opinions or argueing here... nor am i calling "ABSOLUTE BS" on anyone, to do so is quite rude.... just sating what i see on my cans of "bondo" & what has & has not worked for me. no need to get all bent out of shape, the OP asked for suggestions & thats what hes getting. oh, & my can of dap wood filler specifically says for "deep" repairs on all wood types.... My can of #262 clearly states wood, fiberglass, Metal. And perhaps at this time you should be informed that at the Age of 17 i was a master tool & Die maker in the OC. I worked the "TeaCup" ride at Disneyland, and when i say worked, i mean Tooled The Molds.(Fiberglass and Bondo) On call tooling/mold repair for no less than 9 boat companys in the OC. Ever hear of Bruce Meyers? yeah he built DuneBuggys and that was my first car, (FiberGlass) I have also designed, Tooled, Produced funnycar parts, owned and operated Corvette Body shop where we repaired and flared fenders on vetts for 5 years. used to take Splashs of cars for funny car molds. It has been said i have Acetone for blood. Your talking to an EXPERT here, so save the rant BS. Edited March 29, 2015 by minermark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxima95 Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 The Minwax High performance Wood Filler referred to above is a 2-part mix, and is similar to Bondo. Have used them both interchangeably for years. The Minwax, if mixed per the instructions, takes longer to dry and seems to be a little easier to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCB1725 Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I hope we can all agree that there really are two scoops of raisins in Kellogg Raisin Bran 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ceptorman Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I hope we can all agree that there really are two scoops of raisins in Kellogg Raisin Bran Raisin Bran Crunch is much better. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.