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Bondo for La Scala cabs?


jimjimbo

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 I hope we can all agree that there really are two scoops of raisins in Kellogg Raisin Bran

Raisin Bran Crunch is much better.

 

 

 

4 out of 5 Doctors surveyed would recommend either one considering the percentage of Fiber they have to offer.

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I call ABSOLUTE BS on you!

Roger

 

really??  well good for you... i call ABSOLUTE JERK on you. 

 

please elaborate on what part of my or RCB1725 suggestion/comments are BS???

Nope, Sorry, I already responded to RCB1725 in a PM! I do not educate people who call me a Jerk. Suffice it to say that I believe you are speaking out your South end from a perspective on a lack of knowledge on the subject matter and I believe Minermark has already set you straight in that regaurds.

Furthermore, if you knew more about PWK and this Forum, you would realize that Paul Wilbur Klipsch wore a yellow BS button on the underside of his lapel that he would expose whenever he thought someone was spouting crap and did not know what they were talking about, so it is nothing personal on this Forum to call BS on someone...

Roger

Edited by twistedcrankcammer
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Jim, bondo your cabs, prime and duratex to finish.  A couple things to remember.  Block the edges to get sharp corners.  If you use a DA sander on the sides, 100 grit is fine but don't linger on any one spot or you'll dig a hole.  Use 180 grit with a DA if you want to take your time.  Remember, bondo sands at a different rate than wood so be careful around transitions.  If you have pin holes or very small cracks, they make a cream bondo that comes In a tube (like tooth paste) that does not require mixing.  As far as dry time is concerned, apply the bondo, go do something else, when you come back it will be dry.  

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Read THE CAN, i think you will see what Bondo is made of, RESIN!

 

 

why the yelling & caps?  sorry for saying its not the right product to repair fiberglass.  are you actually saying, as an expert, that you use the regular ol pink bondo filler to make or repair fiberglass?  must have taken a differnt auto body class than me.

 

yes its "made of resin" however without getting all scientific, its not the same type or formulation of resins used for real fiberglass work or repair... you know, like making an automotive body panel, or a boat hull or other large item, like tea cups, with layers & layers of fiberglass matting & coating it with a much thinner clear type resin.  my apologies but i disagree, you dont just use the pink bondo body filler for that & its not the CORRECT way to repair fiberglass.  this shouldn't have to be explained.  but yes, i will stop the rant & simple suggestion to use actual wood products on wood. 

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Read THE CAN, i think you will see what Bondo is made of, RESIN!

 

 

why the yelling & caps?  sorry for saying its not the right product to repair fiberglass.  are you actually saying, as an expert, that you use the regular ol pink bondo filler to make or repair fiberglass?  must have taken a differnt auto body class than me.

 

yes its "made of resin" however without getting all scientific, its not the same type or formulation of resins used for real fiberglass work or repair... you know, like making an automotive body panel, or a boat hull or other large item, like tea cups, with layers & layers of fiberglass matting & coating it with a much thinner clear type resin.  my apologies but i disagree, you dont just use the pink bondo body filler for that & its not the CORRECT way to repair fiberglass.  this shouldn't have to be explained.  but yes, i will stop the rant & simple suggestion to use actual wood products on wood. 

 

Im done with this, you have a lot to learn when it comes to the fiberglass trade Grasshopper, i'll rest on Twistedcrank's response.

Edited by minermark
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I call ABSOLUTE BS on you!

Roger

 

really??  well good for you... i call ABSOLUTE JERK on you. 

 

please elaborate on what part of my or RCB1725 suggestion/comments are BS???

 

Nope, Sorry, I already responded to RCB1725 in a PM! I do not educate people who call me a Jerk. Suffice it to say that I believe you are speaking out your South end from a perspective on a lack of knowledge on the subject matter and I believe Minermark has already set you straight in that regaurds.

Furthermore, if you knew more about PWK and this Forum, you would realize that Paul Wilbur Klipsch wore a yellow BS button on the underside of his lapel that he would expose whenever he thought someone was spouting crap and did not know what they were talking about, so it is nothing personal on this Forum to call BS on someone...

Roger

 

 hey roger, i dont know you & didnt start this, you called BS on me, or actually ABSOLUTE BS in CAPS for no reason at all, like i deserved that...  i made a suggestion based on my experience of using auto filler on wood, i even explained the situation & why, maybe my situation was different.  again, all i said was i suggest wood filler for filling wood.  please forgive the "BS"

 

& how was i "proven wrong" by anyone?  calling ABSOLUTE BS on me for no reason & without knowing my history on the subject warrants a jerk reference.  does it not?  if you didnt agree with something i said there is a more mature of saying that, or send a PM if you have a problem. like i said, i dont know you, why the attitude?  are you having a bad day?? 

 

furthermore... yes i know about pwk & this forum & must say this is the first time i have ever seen "BS" callled in that way with an ATTITUDE.  yeah, nothing personal.  

Edited by klipschfancf4
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Read THE CAN, i think you will see what Bondo is made of, RESIN!

 

 

why the yelling & caps?  sorry for saying its not the right product to repair fiberglass.  are you actually saying, as an expert, that you use the regular ol pink bondo filler to make or repair fiberglass?  must have taken a differnt auto body class than me.

 

yes its "made of resin" however without getting all scientific, its not the same type or formulation of resins used for real fiberglass work or repair... you know, like making an automotive body panel, or a boat hull or other large item, like tea cups, with layers & layers of fiberglass matting & coating it with a much thinner clear type resin.  my apologies but i disagree, you dont just use the pink bondo body filler for that & its not the CORRECT way to repair fiberglass.  this shouldn't have to be explained.  but yes, i will stop the rant & simple suggestion to use actual wood products on wood. 

 

Im done with this, you have a lot to learn when it comes to the fiberglass trade Grasshopper, i'll rest on Twistedcrank's response.

 

 

im done too... never really started.  funny how you assume what i have learned or my experience level.  you are resting on assumptions if thats the case. 

 

have a good night

Edited by klipschfancf4
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I call ABSOLUTE BS on you!

Roger

 

really??  well good for you... i call ABSOLUTE JERK on you. 

 

please elaborate on what part of my or RCB1725 suggestion/comments are BS???

Nope, Sorry, I already responded to RCB1725 in a PM! I do not educate people who call me a Jerk. Suffice it to say that I believe you are speaking out your South end from a perspective on a lack of knowledge on the subject matter and I believe Minermark has already set you straight in that regaurds.

Furthermore, if you knew more about PWK and this Forum, you would realize that Paul Wilbur Klipsch wore a yellow BS button on the underside of his lapel that he would expose whenever he thought someone was spouting crap and did not know what they were talking about, so it is nothing personal on this Forum to call BS on someone...

Roger

 hey roger, i dont know you & didnt start this, you called BS on me, or actually ABSOLUTE BS in CAPS for no reason at all, like i deserved that...  i made a suggestion based on my experience of using auto filler on wood, i even explained the situation & why, maybe my situation was different.  again, all i said was i suggest wood filler for filling wood.  please forgive the "BS"

 

& how was i "proven wrong" by anyone?  calling ABSOLUTE BS on me for no reason & without knowing my history on the subject warrants a jerk reference.  does it not?  if you didnt agree with something i said there is a more mature of saying that, or send a PM if you have a problem. like i said, i dont know you, why the attitude?  are you having a bad day?? 

 

furthermore... yes i know about pwk & this forum & must say this is the first time i have ever seen "BS" callled in that way with an ATTITUDE.  yeah, nothing personal.

Dude,

You are WAY out on this!

I have handled you with "kid gloves" and you just lack the synaptic ability to comprehend it!

If you want to make this personal, we can take the kid gloves off and ponder at one another's intellect.

Otherwise, I suggest you leave me alone.

Roger

Edited by twistedcrankcammer
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Looking like I'll be able to start the Bondo process tomorrow.  Temps here are absolutely wonderful, and then maybe after a couple days of drying and sanding, I'll get to do the Duratex (got it today).  Also will start work on rehabbing the AA crossovers tonight.  Spring fever!!

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Looking like I'll be able to start the Bondo process tomorrow.  Temps here are absolutely wonderful, and then maybe after a couple days of drying and sanding, I'll get to do the Duratex (got it today).  Also will start work on rehabbing the AA crossovers tonight.  Spring fever!!

If there is anything i can assist with please let me know :emotion-21:

P.S. mix up and play with a little bit of that Bondo, it's not waste, it's experience.

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I used autobody filler on that LS I redid a while ago. There is a thread with pics. The stuff stuck to the wood very well. 

 

I'll get back to you in 20 years and let you know how it held up.   :)  I think it's gonna be fine. That Duratex is a great top coat. Also, I look at it this way. If I restored it once, I can restore it again. That makes me seem fearless when I've working on stuff. I'm not... I'm as dumb and chicken as the next guy.

Edited by mustang guy
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im sure bondo products will work, but in my experience bondo didnt last on wood as long as real wood fillers.  ive been doing auto body & mechanical for 20+ years & automotive type "bondo" products are best used for metal or fiberglass etc. 

 

DAP & other brand wood filler is intended for far bigger "holes" or repairs than just screw holes, have used it on 1/2" deep & 2-3" wide repairs with great results. 

 

but as with everything, each person has their own opinion & preference.  use what you want, just follow the products instructions.

 

 

Good point you've brought up. Bondo needs something to grab itself onto.. with the exception of something like a screw hole or real deep gouge. With it being used in an auto body repair the 80 grit sanding pattern is "grip " enough for the Bondo to adhere itself to. On a veneer repair where your only talking a 1/16"  it helps to first tap some small brads into the wood and below the surface for the Bondo to grab onto. A 1/2" brad with a head on it will work .  On large areas the more brads the merrier. They can be tapped in at an angle to provide extra grab.

 

I call ABSOLUTE BS on you!

Roger

 

WHAT?? I've always thought this would be of great help, especially when building up corners were concerned. 

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Furthermore, if you knew more about PWK and this Forum, you would realize that Paul Wilbur Klipsch wore a yellow BS button on the underside of his lapel

 

that he would expose whenever he thought someone was spouting crap and did not know what they were talking about, so it is nothing personal on this Forum to call BS on someone...

Roger

 

 

I beg to differ.

 

First of all, you are not PWK.  Just because he wore a little yellow BS button that was his "stock in trade" I don't think that gives anybody else license to imitate his personal style, which was not polite even when he did it.

 

Second, there are no adults I know of who "call BS" on other adults.  I can see why Mr. CF4 Fan took offense.  And when a person uses the word "you", it IS making it personal.

 

As a disinterested 3rd party, I would prefer to have forum members with differing opinions simply state their opinions.  I even think stating their resume or background in the subject area is appropriate as it helps un-knowledgable readers such as myself know the background of the person making the opinion.

 

As to the specifics, I don't know why two obviously very experienced forum members have diametrically opposed opinions.  I do know the conversation should not be made personal.  It changes the atmosphere of the forum from two guys trying to be helpful by sharing knowledge and experience into a pissing match which makes everybody uncomfortable.

 

I hope all parties can continue to share their knowledge and experience.  I learn from it, and I appreciate people taking the time to share their expertise.

 

-Dave

Edited by wvu80
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As to the specifics, I don't know why two obviously very experienced forum members have diametrically opposed opinions. I do know the conversation should not be made personal. It changes the atmosphere of the forum from two guys trying to be helpful by sharing knowledge and experience into a pissing match which makes everybody uncomfortable. I hope all parties can continue to share their knowledge and experience. I learn from it, and I appreciate people taking the time to share their expertise. -Dave

 

Thanks for saying what I was thinking!

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I'm a licenced auto body mechanic  ( 30 plus years )  i've repaired and refinished dozens of klipsch cabinets over the years .

 

Bondo ( polyester filler ) comes in several forms , from a full on filler to a glazing puddy ( meant more for sand scratchs and grinder marks )

 

Each with it's own uses .... I've never found a cabinet that needed much more then a glazing putty to fill a scratch or missing veneer , the glazing putty is much finer and can be sanded with a much finer grit from the onset .

 

2 component ( with a hardener )  pretty much eliminates future shrinkage of the product , older products like nitro cellulose glazing putty use to be used under laquer finishs back in the day but have been replaced by better technoligy now due to shrinkage with age .

 

Go to your local Autobody supply outlet or even a body shop in your area and they will steer you to a product availible in your area that will " Hold out " on wood . They will also tutor you to the proper primer coat prior to refinishing to ensure sand scratch hold out and a finish that will last to your expectations .

 

Be mindfull that fillers and primers will fill in your woodgrain ... so the topcoat will not reflect a painted or stained woodgrain look , if your going to use professional autobody products, your finish is going to resemble that of an automobile , not that of wood .  An example would be a piano black finish where the wood looks more like plastic or metal then that of a natural product such as wood .

 

Dale

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