dewthedru Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 1 - Planning on building a couple of Stonehendge builds.What's the difference between the HT18 and the HST18...aside from a decent amount of money? Couldn't find the spec difference. Probably wouldn't have meant anything to me anyhow. 2 - Do I need the 2 or 4 ohm version? 3 - If I'm pairing it up with the Beringer iNuke DPS amp, do I need buy the NU6000DSP (Delivers 2 x 3100 Watts into 4 Ohms, 2 x 1600 Watts into 8 Ohms) or would the NU3000DSP (Delivers 2 x 1500 Watts into 2 Ohms; 2 x 900 Watts into 4 Ohms; 3000 Watts into 4 Ohms) be sufficient? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 i think like 6-9db more output potential on the hst. but i don't know if that sub will work in the stonehenge. i personally wouldn't splurge unless you were doing a single sealed in a large room and needed that extra excursion. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 other questions....the 3000dsp should run them in ported boxes no problem. then get the dual 4 ohm version so you will have a 2 ohm load on each side to pull max power from the amp 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeker Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I just want to say congrats on your choice. I have contemplated Stonehenge enclosed subs for some time. Please update on your progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 HST Specs: Weight 70 lbs Dimensions 20 x 20 x 16 in Wide and tall foam surround 3″ aluminum voice coil 1500 watts RMS power handling Magnet ID shorting ring Chrome motor finish Cast aluminum basket 10″ nomex spider with dual flat sewn-on lead wires Large 4 AWG speaker terminals 35mm one-way linear Xmax Over 100mm of cone travel possible Cutout: 16.69″ Outer Diameter: 18.42″ Mounting depth: 11″ Mounting flange to top of surround: 2.5″ HT Specs: Weight 42 lbs Dimensions 21 x 23 x 14 in 18″ subwoofer 22.5mm Xmax (one-way linear) 43mm Xmech (one-way) 8″ diameter Nomex spider Sewn on leads Large speaker terminals Cast basket 2.5″ diameter voice coil Spiral cut CZA alloy former 600 watts RMS power handling High roll rubber surround Inner magnet diameter shorting ring Blank dust cap Available in Dual 4 Ohm or Dual 2 Ohm Cutout: 16.7″ Outer Diameter: 18.5″ Mounting depth: 9.5″ Mounting flange to top of surround: 1.5″ Displacement: 0.25 ft^3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 other questions....the 3000dsp should run them in ported boxes no problem. then get the dual 4 ohm version so you will have a 2 ohm load on each side to pull max power from the amp Thanks! I should just send you my questions since you're always so helpful. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 (edited) so.......i did it! pretty excited!!!! Edited March 30, 2015 by dewthedru 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Those are gonna be beast I bet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 prolly should have told my wife. lol. wonder how much i can get for my old sub....a HSU STF-3 in perfect condition 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 This should be a nice build project. Post pic's along the way! Over the last couple of years, people on this forum having been transitioning to large 18 in. subs for HT. I guess that is a good thing, not to mess around and go for the boom and bang from the start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 This should be a nice build project. Post pic's along the way! Over the last couple of years, people on this forum having been transitioning to large 18 in. subs for HT. I guess that is a good thing, not to mess around and go for the boom and bang from the start. i'm hoping it's not overkill. i had a thread here where i asked if they would be too much. unsurprisingly, the answer came back it shouldn't be a problem. if it is, i'll just start saving for a set of RF-7's. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 i'm hoping it's not overkill. i had a thread here where i asked if they would be too much. unsurprisingly, the answer came back it shouldn't be a problem. if it is, i'll just start saving for a set of RF-7's. Not at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 1 - .What's the difference between the HT18 and the HST18...aside from a decent amount of money? A ridiculous amount of extra excursion potential. Only thing I don't like about the HST is that the cones are actually significantly smaller due to the massive surround. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 ordered the drivers and the amp! getting pretty excited. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 another quick question...if i'm getting the dual 4 ohm drivers, does that mean there's 2 speaker wires going to each sub? i only ordered 50 feet of 12awg wire from monoprice and am afraid i won't have enough now if i'm running 4 lines. thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 2 wires to each driver. (+ and -) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) another quick question...if i'm getting the dual 4 ohm drivers, does that mean there's 2 speaker wires going to each sub? i only ordered 50 feet of 12awg wire from monoprice and am afraid i won't have enough now if i'm running 4 lines. Like the above says its usually 1 pair of wires to each driver, connected to one voice coil, then a short jumper to the other voice coil. Dual 4 ohm jumped + to + and - to - gets you a 2 ohm load. A + from the amp to one + on a voice coil, then a jumper from the - on that coil to the + on the other, then the - on that back to the amp, gets you 8 ohms. If you're just running two subs you can get the dual 2 ohm version and run the coils in series for a 4 ohm load for each amp channel which is what I did due to an iNuke 6000 being stuck in dual bridged mode. Of course if you want four subs and have a 4 ohm load on one pair of wires, you'll have to take two drivers in combination, like run the coils on each driver in series then run both drivers in parallel. I think this is what scrappy did. If you are bridging an amp you "usually" need to stick with 4 ohms as the amp "sees" 2 ohms at that point and hardly any are stable below that. Exactly what amp and subs did you get? Edited March 31, 2015 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 this is what i bought: NU3000DSP (Delivers 2 x 1500 Watts into 2 Ohms; 2 x 900 Watts into 4 Ohms; 3000 Watts into 4 Ohms) HT18 18" w/dual 4 ohm coils thanks for your answers above. i'm still not sure what you're saying so i'll be asking more questions as the build starts/progresses. probably will diagram what i think it should be and check with y'all before i fry anything. i'll start a build thread once i get going. btw, when i was asking about 2 vs 1 wire going to a 4 ohm speaker, i meant 2 sets of black/red vs. 1 set of black/red. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) Well you've got two choices with those parts. 1. Run the amp in bridged mode. Run both voice coils in the subs in series, taking your positive wire to one positive terminal on the voicecoil, then negative terminal to the positive on the second voice coil, then negative on that back to your amp, producing 8 ohms each, then run both in parallel off the same pair of wires for a total of 4 ohms, in which the amp will "see" 2 ohms. You'll squeeze out the most power this way but quite honestly it is such a small percentage you'll probably never know the difference. 2. Just run the amp in stereo and take 1 pair of wires (1 black + 1 red) to each driver. Once you are at the driver, connect this pair to one voicecoil. At that point take a small jumper that goes from one voice coil to the other, positive to positive, and negative to negative. This will run the voice coils in parallel so each channel will see 2 ohms. Not "quite" as much power, but virtually the same if I remember right, plus you can take advantage of the dual sub outs and Audessey SubEQ. Edited March 31, 2015 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 You need a single run to each speaker. When you get them you just attach the positives together and the negatives together on the woofer. That runs it in parallel mode which will be a 2 ohm load. Then a single little short piece from either side of woofer to the binding posts inside the box then your done. Hook up the the amp, one in each channel. No need to bridge or any of that jazz. You got a straight forward setup. Hit me up with any questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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