dewthedru Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 First, thanks for all the help so far. I wanted to go through my parts list first before the flat packs arrive to make sure everything is correct. I've ordered the following: 2 Stonehenge flat pack from DIYSoundgroup 2 Dual 4 ohm HT18 18" Drivers from Stereo Integrity Behringer iNuke NU3000DSP amp 50ft 12AWG CL2 speaker wire from Monoprice 2 XLR Female to RCA Female Adapter (I have extra Monster RCA cables at home I can use) 2 Parts Express Gold Recessed 5-Way Banana Speaker Terminal Cup Rectangle Neutrik NL4FC Speakon Connector 4 Pole Cable Mount (Crap! Forgot to include these in my PE order!) And yes, I really am a nOOb... Variable Wattage Soldering Iron Kester Kwik-Draw Solder Am I missing anything? The drivers get here tomorrow per the tracking info. I haven't seen any movement on the flat packs. Will send Erich a note if they haven't shipped by this weekend. I gotta go grab clamps and glue this weekend. Not sure if I'll Duratex the units or try to do something else. Suggestions? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Duratex or what ever you're going to finish them in (semi gloss latex works too). Maybe feet as well if they don't come with the kit. What about adhesive. PL Premium would work. Do you have any clamps or a finish nailer? Edited April 1, 2015 by CECAA850 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Duratex or what ever you're going to finish them in (semi gloss latex works too). Maybe feet as well if they don't come with the kit. What about adhesive. PL Premium would work. Do you have any clamps or a finish nailer? i'll grab adhesive and feet shortly. a buddy has a bunch of clamps i can use and i do have a finish nailer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 You should be pretty much ready to go then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Does the kit come with T-nuts and bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Does the kit come with T-nuts and bolts? Nope. Thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Does the kit come with T-nuts and bolts? Man I really hate those things. Make sure you glue them down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twk123 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Does the kit come with T-nuts and bolts? Man I really hate those things. Make sure you glue them down. Do you think they are worth using at all or just go with good wood screws to mount the driver? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Use the t nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Be sure you don't get any glue on the threads and test fit your driver BEFORE you attach the baffle to the box. also be sure there's no interference between the driver surround and the t nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) I used wood screws myself. Edited April 1, 2015 by Scrappydue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 I used wood screws myself. I have in the past with smaller drivers. If you have to take them out more than once or twice, they can strip, at least that's been my experience. Maybe I've gone a little tighter than I should. I just don't trust MDF to hold up like I do plywood but I tend to over build things as well. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Do you think they are worth using at all or just go with good wood screws to mount the driver? Theoretically the T nuts would be better but they are easy to screw up because the nuts are soft metal. If you realize the threads are going on wrong then have to back them out, you better hope they are glued at that point, because if you back them out and the little teeth bend, you are stuck. I made this mistake and had to get a crow bar to pry my sub up then take a reciprocating saw and cut the bolt in half. Tried to go to Lowes and get more but they ended up being about the same situation. Ended up sealing the holes then just using pretty fat screws. We always used screws in car audio, I've never seen any vibrate loose, so I tend to view T nuts as a solution to a non-issue. Edited April 1, 2015 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 If you realize the threads are going on wrong then have to back them out, you better hope they are glued at that point. Always pre-fit the driver before gluing the driver baffle to the sub assembly. The biggest problem I've had with t-nuts really wasn't a t-nut problem. When you go to Lowes or a hardware store, most bolts and nuts are in a bin. People rummage the bins and don't put things back where they belong (surprise!) You think you've bought a bunch of 10/24 nuts and bolts when reality there's a 10/32 nut or bolt stuck in there. You install it and it seems to cross thread when in all actuality, it's the wrong thread. Try EVERY bolt and nut for ease of fitment before you leave the store. That will save you a trip back to the store, or worse, keep you from tearing your box apart. When using t-nuts, if you can't start it 4 or 5 threads with your fingers, something's wrong. Take it out and see what's going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 If you realize the threads are going on wrong then have to back them out, you better hope they are glued at that point. Always pre-fit the driver before gluing the driver baffle to the sub assembly. The biggest problem I've had with t-nuts really wasn't a t-nut problem. When you go to Lowes or a hardware store, most bolts and nuts are in a bin. People rummage the bins and don't put things back where they belong (surprise!) You think you've bought a bunch of 10/24 nuts and bolts when reality there's a 10/32 nut or bolt stuck in there. You install it and it seems to cross thread when in all actuality, it's the wrong thread. Try EVERY bolt and nut for ease of fitment before you leave the store. That will save you a trip back to the store, or worse, keep you from tearing your box apart. When using t-nuts, if you can't start it 4 or 5 threads with your fingers, something's wrong. Take it out and see what's going on. Seems like common sense as far as nuts and bolts go. But great tip, the devil is always in the details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Seems like common sense I must not have much then. I learned the hard way but at least I learned! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Op, So you're going to wire the dual 4 ohm voice coils in parallel for a 2 ohm load, and then put each one on separate channel of the amp? Edited April 1, 2015 by babadono Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Op, So you're going to wire the dual 4 ohm voice coils in parallel for a 2 ohm load, and then put each one on separate channel of the amp? yes that should be exactly what he is doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Op, So you're going to wire the dual 4 ohm voice coils in parallel for a 2 ohm load, and then put each one on separate channel of the amp? yes that should be exactly what he is doing. Dual 4's won't be available till May per the web site. He should get the dual 2's and wire for 4 Ohm/side. The amp still has more power than he'll need at 4 Ohms and will work easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Op, So you're going to wire the dual 4 ohm voice coils in parallel for a 2 ohm load, and then put each one on separate channel of the amp? yes that should be exactly what he is doing. Dual 4's won't be available till May per the web site. He should get the dual 2's and wire for 4 Ohm/side. The amp still has more power than he'll need at 4 Ohms and will work easier. Perhaps I got the last 2 because they are on a FedEx truck scheduled for delivery tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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