10" Sub Build

[sean5340]

I bought a 10" from an RPW-10 from a fellow forum member (Excellent Transaction!). I am building a sealed enclosure to use with an existing 150 watt amp. This is my old school mark up.

Edited April 30, 2015 by sean5340

[CECAA850]

Don't forget your bracing and post lots of pictures!

[sean5340]

Yeah, I like taking pictures. All panels are cut.

 

[sean5340]

_{I'm happy with the fit. Everything is glued and nail gunned. I'm going to also add screws. I ripped a 2x4 for the internal corner braces so that the screws would bite without stripping.}

 

 

[mustang guy]

You may want to go with ports. The RPW-10 was slot ported. Fortunately, you can add round ports after the fact if you want to play with the low frequency extension.

 

FYI, your enclosure is 1 cu ft as you know, and the RPW-10 was 1.3 cu ft. I don't know the dimensions of the slot port, but if I did, I could quickly tell you what it is tuned to, and suggest a round port size to start with.

 

I am going to guess a 4" long 2" diameter round port.  

Edited April 30, 2015 by mustang guy

[sean5340]

Thanks for the heads up. I'll try sealed to begin with since this will be on my patio. I don't want critters getting inside of it. If it doesn't do the job I may try porting it. I've had good luck in the past building ported and sealed. I think I like the sound of a sealed sub a little better.

Edited April 30, 2015 by sean5340

[mustang guy]

I have had critters in subs before. In fact I have a dead Paradigm out in the garage that was killed by mice. 

[CECAA850]

Everything is glued and nail gunned. I'm going to also add screws.

 

You won't need screws if it's glued.  they won't add any strength.

[CECAA850]

I'd brace like the picture on the right.

 

[CECAA850]

This is a dual 12" driver box I built.  The picture shows the bracing I'm referring to.

[sean5340]

I was thinking due to the small size of the enclosure that center trusses may do the job without cross members. Thoughts?

[CECAA850]

You need to brace from one side to the opposing sides.

[sean5340]

OK, I braced it as you mentioned. This should do the trick.

 

 

[CECAA850]

Much better.  You'll need to do the same thing from the driver side to the bottom panel.

[sean5340]

That will have to wait. The back will be removable in case I want to add a Dayton SPA250 amp later on.

[CECAA850]

Why would you need to remove the back to install an amp?

[sean5340]

That's a good question. I thought it might make it easier to cut and modify but it doesn't really matter.

 

Anyway, holes are done. The fit is perfect!

 

 

Edited April 30, 2015 by sean5340

[sean5340]

I want to mention my router circle jig. I just used some Plexiglas from Home Depot and screwed it to the bottom of my router. It's been going strong for several years.

[CECAA850]

I was lazy and just bought a Jasper Jig.

[sean5340]

I checked the Jasper years ago, I think it was 30 or 40 bucks. I'm too frugal for that. As a matter of fact I think I learned about it on this forum.

 

I have the motor board pieces glued and under heavy compression. I'm going to attach the back then run to Home Depot. I thought that i had a terminal cup but I don't. I'm going to use some stainless steel bolts for terminal studs. Double nutted on each side and wires attached with eyelets.