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Taming Highs


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You know,my wife had a baby boy but after being here and seeing how you gents know my ears better than I ,probaly eyes as well , I may have a girl .

 

Wowza, did we hit a nerve?? You asked a question and got a legit answer and some suggestions. Maybe a "Thank You" is more deserving than your response above? Maybe ask more questions and see if we can really help here. Its all still good.

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Moray told you how to wire a resistor to the tweeter, what else do you want?

 

 

 

You know,my wife had a baby boy but after being here and seeing how you gents know my ears better than I ,probaly eyes as well , I may have a girl .

 

Wowza, did we hit a nerve?? You asked a question and got a legit answer and some suggestions. Maybe a "Thank You" is more deserving than your response above? Maybe ask more questions and see if we can really help here. Its all still good.

 

 

 

I just read this entire thread and I get the impression he may be referring to several of the posts made after he clarified the issue in post 12 that it was the tweeter rather than midrange.  Several of those posts seem to imply his hearing is off or even could be interpreted as implying that he doesn't know what he is talking about claiming it is the tweeters.  In some instances I suspect that the person posting may have not bothered to read his clarification in post 12. 

 

Of course, it was easy for me to follow along and read how Moray responded in post 13 as Carl noted above and how Carl did recognize the clarification and ask a legitimate question in post 14 regarding cymbals but most of the other posts that have been made since post 12 only give the impression that the poster had not read the entire thread or the clarification.  

 

In some respects it looks like several were just "late to the party" and in finding the keg dry just want to let people know they were at the party anyway.  Of course, from another perspective, it seems there is the tendency on the forum where people tend to quickly side with the long time poster and assume he was just kidding around or "don't take seriously what I meant to be kidding, we all kid around we each other and you will learn that when you are around long enough," however, there seems to be the natural tendency where the forum people seem to not give the new person that same consideration and lash out as if the newbie has some type of problem.  Maybe the new person was just innocently "dishing" a little back in the direction it came?

Edited by Fjd
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If you want to attenuate the tweeter here is another solution: http://www.alkeng.com/pad.html

 

I think the reason you are getting some push back about the mids is because given your configuration it makes little sense that your tweeters are hot and it seems that something must be wrong that we haven't discovered yet.  The solution at the link above will do what you asked.  I have both versions and they perform as expected.

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OP stated he has BEC xover that crosses at 4.5 kHz to the tweeter. Just sayin.. I think the swamping resistor is the place to start.

 

 Oh and just curious... will ALK's tweeter attenuator work with BEC's adjusted 4.5kHz crossover point? I mean I know it will do something but will it be what you think it is?

Edited by babadono
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It would be interesting to hear if he tried nothing but replacing those Sonicaps with Jupiter or Jensen caps.  They might not have exact values though... I don't know what values the crites 4500 uses.   The AA uses a 13uF and 2 - 2.0 uF but the closest Jupiter or Jensen have is 2.2.  Just a 10% change but how much would that lower the crossover?

Anyway, as much as the Sonicaps were an improvement over 30 year old capacitors they are brighter sounding than other choices.

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I use Jupiter and Jensen 2.2s all of the time. Really, they're both closer to 7%, and even 10% isn't a show-stopper on these older filter designs.

People come in here all of the time freely admitting that they don't have a clue, and need help from people who know more than they do, and then when we try to help, they get mad at us. Then they become the experts and we become the people who don't have a clue!

The majority of complaints, by a wide margin, relate to the midrange output, which is why people are responding the way they are.

Both the midrange and treble output levels go up quite a bit when you replace the networks. There is debate between Bob and myself as to whether or not the output levels are higher than they should be. It's hard to argue with Bob's spectrum analyzer, but what I hear is a loudspeaker that's "shouting" at me -- the whole top end just sounds too forward. I believe very low ESR polypropylene capacitors are responsible for this -- hence, everyone dropping taps, adding resistors, L-pads, and transformer based attenuators. I prefer to just use capacitors that are similar in nature to what was originally used -- something a little lossy with some internal damping (oil or wax). Everyone has to make their own choice here. What is not in debate is the elevated output levels in relationship to the networks that were replaced, and that some feel the need to do something about it.

Once you go down the road with modern films, you're stuck with L-pads and transformer based attenuation.

When you drop the crossover point AND change tweeters, and then don't like what you're hearing -- it's not always very easy to figure out what's going on.

We've had mixed reviews on Bob's tweeter. Some like it, some have gone back to the K-77, and some have gone to Dave and Al's B&C DE-120, but we have yet to hear anything about it from anyone - or something else altogether.

Since you're convinced it's the tweeter, you have several good suggestions given here to try. Attenuation may or may not work, and you won't know until you try it. Dropping the crossover point sends an additional 1500 cycles of the signal to the tweeter, and attenuation won't fix that.

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