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Cornwall crossover - B or B2?


muel

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People often don't think about the fact that vendors get OEM pricing. We also already have all of the right tools. A good soldering station can set you back around a hundred dollars, and the discounts on the parts can be anywhere from 20-40%. By the time you buy everything you need, you're usually within a hundred or less of just having one of us do it for you. I will say that if you plan on doing a lot of this kind of thing, you should probably invest in the tools and have at it. With time, you actually get good, and you can always go back and redo your early work if you aren't that happy with the results. If you don't think you're capable of producing something half way decently built, don't do it.

 
So far so good anyway.  I take things so slow and study what I am doing so much that I probably take four times as long or more to get anything done.  I'm just having fun so I don't really care how long it takes.  I had enough experience building serial cables years ago that I can usually get this kind of stuff done OK.  I wanted those connections to look good even though they were going to be covered up.  
I love the networks that you built for me Dean!  We will have to see what's next... I'm interested to see when Jupiter finally releases their new round caps.  Their copper caps are a bit out of range.

 

As do I!!!!!   :emotion-21:  :cool:

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  • 2 months later...

I used Sonicap for the 20uF but Jupiter flat stacks for the 2 and 3uF values.   Closest values from Jupiter was 2.2uF and 3.3uF (100vdc) but worked wonderfully in these crossovers!  I am very happy with them!  These are mostly sold out but Jupiter is said to be releasing a new replacement this Fall.  Jupiter also has a copper foil but these are very expensive. Jensen Paper in oil are also said to be very nice but I have yet to try them on any networks.  For crazy amounts of money you could get Duelund copper foil caps and your networks will have cost much more than your speakers.  

 

I used Sonicaps in type E, B, and AA networks but I've since moved on to other caps or networks altogether with V-Cap OIMP, Mundorf aluminum oil, or Jupiter caps. 

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Thanks for the response. So this is a remove and replace situation only?  and I can use essentially anything matching the specs.. I did notice the VDC are lower on current caps than what is being offered apparently no big deal?

 

thanks

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If I'm reading this all correctly, you'd only want to utilize these in Cornwalls with the K77M mud magnet, not the alnico, and preferably with the solder lug (2 piece phase plug) K55V, correct?

 

 

Also I'm questioning why the polarity is inverted on BOTH the mid and tweeter on the schematics, again if I'm reading these right, the B is all 6db slopes, the B2 is 12 db LPF on the woofer, 12 db HPF on the tweeter, and still 6 db slopes on the mid. Seems you'd flip the woofer and tweeter in such an arrangement. 

 

Getting ready to re-cap a few CW here, would rather make the correct decision. 

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K-33-E , K-51-V , tweeters blown going with CT125 from Crites. have very little idea what I'm dealing with here. stripped boxes new grills and cloth ,and re veneering. want to recap and get em going,  then drop every penny I have into them. so I'm looking for some guidance.  They sounded great even without the tweeters, hooked up to a Marantz 2250.

 

thanks for the help.

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If I'm reading this all correctly, you'd only want to utilize these in Cornwalls with the K77M mud magnet, not the alnico, and preferably with the solder lug (2 piece phase plug) K55V, correct?

 

 

Also I'm questioning why the polarity is inverted on BOTH the mid and tweeter on the schematics, again if I'm reading these right, the B is all 6db slopes, the B2 is 12 db LPF on the woofer, 12 db HPF on the tweeter, and still 6 db slopes on the mid. Seems you'd flip the woofer and tweeter in such an arrangement. 

 

Getting ready to re-cap a few CW here, would rather make the correct decision. 

 

Are you looking at the schematic for the B2 here? https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/113804-klipsch-crossovers/?p=1257812

I don't understand as much of the technical side as I'd like but I can say the results were very nice!  I converted my B networks to B2 and it was worth the little extra trouble.  I had to stare at the schematic for a long time before it finally came together in my head!  

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I'd like to know how to attenuate the mids on the B2 by 3db so it will work with the Fastrac horns.  The stock settings are just a little too "hot" on the mids with the Fastrac.

 

I know I could move the squawker from pin 3 to pin 2 on the autoformer and that would cut it by 3db but it would also screw up the crossover.  I would like to know what other value I need to change to keep the crossover correct.  Even better would be to know the math to figure this out!   Would it just be a cap value change?

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Excellent djk... thank you!

 

Just to be clear because I'm kind of sloooowww... you are saying in addition to the connection from tap 2 on the autoformer to the - connection on the squawker I also add a 15 ohm resistor to the same tap and connect to the - connection on the squawker (see my rough edit of the B2 schematic)?  Please correct me if I misunderstood.

 

Meniscus Audio is where I got resistors last time when Al K. was helping me experiment with my ALK B networks a few years ago.  Do these look good?  I'm pretty sure a 10 watt Lync was what I used before.

 

I'm hoping there is no harm to the sound quality going the resistor route... it would be nice to be able to change it back to stock so easily.

 

EDIT: I understand Mills would be good too.

Also, If I did change the cap value from 3 to 1.5uF would that not affect the signal going to the 2uF?  Or would the 2 be fine the way it is?  I'm sure I am showing my ignorance... I'd like to understand more about this though.

Edited by muel
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The resistor is to be connected under the screw terminals on the crossover output for the Squawker, ie: in parallel.

 

"Also, If I did change the cap value from 3 to 1.5uF would that not affect the signal going to the 2uF?"

 

No.

 

"I'm hoping there is no harm to the sound quality going the resistor route... it would be nice to be able to change it back to stock so easily."

 

Virtually none, as it's in parallel, not in series.

Edited by djk
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