OO1 Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 32 minutes ago, Frontino said: Uhm... Ok... I don't know what happened exactly, but today I reconnected the speaker to my AVR, after putting it back in the box for a few days, and now it works perfectly. I think the issue was not related to the tweeter itself, but something else: maybe a loose wire? it definitely sounds like an external wire connection being loose or not fully engaged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frontino Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 Sorry, ignore my last post. I forgot to reset channels trims to 0 before testing the KL-650 again. The crackling still occurs but this time I noticed that it did not start to distort right away, but it took something like a second after pushing the AVR close to 2.83 Vrms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willland Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 On 1/11/2022 at 6:55 AM, Frontino said: I was testing my newly purchased KL-650-THX connected to a Yamaha RX-V381 This may be a problem. Your Yamaha is entry level or near entry level and just may not have the horsepower to properly drive your THX system. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frontino Posted January 14, 2022 Share Posted January 14, 2022 I seriously doubt that: 1. The R-51M goes up to volume 0 with no distortion. 2. The pink noise has peaks of -10 dBFS digital, which on the Yamaha amount to 20 W at 2.83 Vrms. The distortion occurs even if I connect just the tweeter to the Yamaha and nothing else, meaning a pass band of 1400-2000 Hz and impedance of 9-11 ohms. If the Yamaha can't drive even that at 1 W continous, how can it drive the R-51M with almost 2 W continous and peaks of 34 W when I push it at volume 0? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted January 14, 2022 Share Posted January 14, 2022 15 hours ago, Frontino said: Sorry, ignore my last post. I forgot to reset channels trims to 0 before testing the KL-650 again. The crackling still occurs but this time I noticed that it did not start to distort right away, but it took something like a second after pushing the AVR close to 2.83 Vrms. questions 1)- Are these speakers under klipsch Warranty - 2)- do you have another amplifier to test the KL-650 - 3)- do you have a 2nd set of speaker wires , you can try 4)- is the crackling sound the same in both speakers ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnote Posted January 14, 2022 Share Posted January 14, 2022 15 hours ago, willland said: This may be a problem. Your Yamaha is entry level or near entry level and just may not have the horsepower to properly drive your THX system. Bill I was running the THX Ultra II system off a Denon 3805 Switched to Emotiva XPA-5's. It was a night and day difference , this system loves power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willland Posted January 14, 2022 Share Posted January 14, 2022 On 1/14/2022 at 9:19 AM, Gnote said: I was running the THX Ultra II system off a Denon 3805 Yes, and the Denon 3805 is an upper midlevel/near flagship AVR and pretty potent for an AVR. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frontino Posted January 14, 2022 Share Posted January 14, 2022 4 hours ago, RandyH said: questions 1)- Are these speakers under klipsch Warranty - 2)- do you have another amplifier to test the KL-650 - 3)- do you have a 2nd set of speaker wires , you can try 4)- is the crackling sound the same in both speakers ? 1. It's only one speaker and yes, I bought it last July and already started an RMA. 2. Sadly, no, I only have the V381 and if I looked for one just 3dB more powerful, I'd have to spend several thousands EUR, whilst the R-51Ms can play beyond reference level with the V381 just fine. 3. Yes, I tried different wires and got same problem. 4. No, the crackling comes out only from the KL-650's tweeter. The KL-650's woofers and the full R-51Ms play fine up to volume 0, which gives me the assumption that the problem is not the Yamaha, otherwise everything would crackle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted January 14, 2022 Share Posted January 14, 2022 1 hour ago, Frontino said: 1. It's only one speaker and yes, I bought it last July and already started an RMA. 2. Sadly, no, I only have the V381 and if I looked for one just 3dB more powerful, I'd have to spend several thousands EUR, whilst the R-51Ms can play beyond reference level with the V381 just fine. 3. Yes, I tried different wires and got same problem. 4. No, the crackling comes out only from the KL-650's tweeter. The KL-650's woofers and the full R-51Ms play fine up to volume 0, which gives me the assumption that the problem is not the Yamaha, otherwise everything would crackle. the issue sounds like a defect with the speaker , the amp is working correctly with other speakers , so the amp is not the issue although under-powered , Hopefully ,klipsch will send out a replacement speaker or a New replacement part asap - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tragusa3 Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 I had the KL650's and switched to an all Heritage theater with 3 LaScalas up front. The KL's didn't compare in any way to the horsepower this setup. As someone else mentioned, the compression drivers seem delicate. I blew one and had to replace it. The KL's didn't do anything better. I would only consider them in a smallish theater that was limited on speaker size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frontino Posted February 12, 2022 Share Posted February 12, 2022 (edited) OK, but even more delicate than the one used in the Reference Basic series, though? I'm having a hard time believing that, because my R-51M are still intact after playing the very same content (Batman Begins and Tenet at an uncalibrated -11 dB for the 650 and -9.5 dB for the 51 on the Yamaha RX-V381). No, what I think happened is that, since the KL-650-THX is OOP and replaced by the THX-6000-LCR, they sold me an RMA unit not thouroghly tested and simply repackaged by either Klipsch or the Austrian fulfillment center and ultimately sent to me. Indeed, at first, the austrian dealer, from which I bought the 650, couldn't find anything wrong with it when playing simple music. Only after I sent him a file containing -20 dBFS band limited pink noise and told him to play that with a McIntosh up to at least 1 Watt on the meter, he finally heard the tweeter crackling. Edited February 13, 2022 by Frontino Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frontino Posted August 17, 2022 Share Posted August 17, 2022 On 1/14/2022 at 8:11 PM, OO1 said: the issue sounds like a defect with the speaker , the amp is working correctly with other speakers , so the amp is not the issue although under-powered , Hopefully ,klipsch will send out a replacement speaker or a New replacement part asap - The dealer told me that the adhesive of the driver (or drivers) liquefied and the cause cannot be determined with certainty. I have no idea where this adhesive (or maybe he meant "glue" in german) is supposed to be in the KL-650-THX's tweeter. Do you think I could have caused that by driving it too hard with my amp? But why would that happen to the 650 and not to the R-51M? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted August 17, 2022 Share Posted August 17, 2022 1 hour ago, Frontino said: Do you think I could have caused that by driving it too hard with my amp? no , it's a manufacturing defect , and since the speaker is under warranty , you're covered . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frontino Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 So, I'm planning on purchasing a monoblock for the KL-650-THX, but with a power rating within the speaker's capability. Klipsch rate it at 150 W max continuous and 600 W peak, but that's kind of useless without knowing the type of signal used. By looking at the impedance chart, there are 2 dips in the woofers bandwidth: 4 ohms between 150-250 Hz and 5 ohms at the port tuning between 50-60 Hz. Which do you think is the most demanding and how many watts could this speaker handle into that? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoka Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 Maybe you can tale this article from Klipsch as a "initial guidline": https://support.klipsch.com/hc/en-us/articles/360044125891-Choosing-the-Right-Receiver-Amplifier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.