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Tubes for Yaqin amp


Jim

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I have another post on KG speakers but am looking for recommendations on tube replacement for my Yaqin Amp. It uses 6H1N or 6N1 tubes and I've read others are using ECC88, 6922, 6DJ8, 6N23P tubes.

 

I purchased NOS 6N1P-VI Gold Pin and grid NEVZ Novosibirsk Russian tubes (May 1990) for the amp and I'm not sure they are broken in yet as there are about 100 hours or so on them. The SQ seems to be just OK, nothing great, so again I don't if it will open more after more hours on these tubes. I don't know if these are generic tubes or not either.

 

I'm also looking at Amperex 6922 Green label 1968 NOS tubes, Siemens E88CC Grey Shield NOS, Reflektor 1974 6N23P, and Sylvania Gold Brand Gold Pin 6922 also NOS. I am not savvy on tubes so I'm looking for recommendations. I'm looking for a nice open crisp mid and high with a wide soundstage. I'm also using the new Tung Sol Platinum EL34B.

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I brought 16 Russian NOS tubes off ebay for around $20 when I brought my amp.  So far I am still on the first 4 tubes 3 + years.  I think they sound great.  I would not recommend spending big bucks on more expensive tubes.  Keep the cost in line with the price of the amp.

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I did the same, but also purchased another quad that is supposed to be better than the other ones I purchased. Paid $24.00 for the quad.  I just got this though about a month ago,if that, so I'm waiting for break in on new tubes to be able to adjust bias. ow long does it take usually for the Russian tubes to break in?

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Jim, it's nice to see you back on here again!  It has been a long time.  Regarding your tubes, by 50 to 100 hours all of the parameters should be running totally stable in a particular amp.  The way it sounds at that point should be your reference.  I advise people to bias the output tubes when first installed (see, if you stayed with single ended you wouldn't have to be bothered!!!), and do it again at 50-100 hours.  After that, quite frankly, if the amp sounds wonderful don't worry about it.  And Derrick gave you good advice about not spending a fortune on tubes.  There's so much ridiculous hype out there that one can easily get sucked in.  I've seen threads where someone insists that the shape of the getter exerts a profound influence on the sound.  Then, suddenly, the cost of brand XXX with getter type "A" goes through the roof and the supply disappears.  Yes, internal construction can exert some influence on the sound in some circuits because of interelectrode capacitance differences.  You have to be the judge of that.  If I were to say that a 1959 GE tube, manufactured on March 22nd, sounds best in your amp, you may try it and think it sounds awful.  So, don't get too caught up in the tube rolling or you may find yourself spending all your free time (and money) chasing what you think you want instead of just enjoying your music.

Maynard

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Jim, it's nice to see you back on here again!  It has been a long time.  Regarding your tubes, by 50 to 100 hours all of the parameters should be running totally stable in a particular amp.  The way it sounds at that point should be your reference.  I advise people to bias the output tubes when first installed (see, if you stayed with single ended you wouldn't have to be bothered!!!), and do it again at 50-100 hours.  After that, quite frankly, if the amp sounds wonderful don't worry about it.  And Derrick gave you good advice about not spending a fortune on tubes.  There's so much ridiculous hype out there that one can easily get sucked in.  I've seen threads where someone insists that the shape of the getter exerts a profound influence on the sound.  Then, suddenly, the cost of brand XXX with getter type "A" goes through the roof and the supply disappears.  Yes, internal construction can exert some influence on the sound in some circuits because of interelectrode capacitance differences.  You have to be the judge of that.  If I were to say that a 1959 GE tube, manufactured on March 22nd, sounds best in your amp, you may try it and think it sounds awful.  So, don't get too caught up in the tube rolling or you may find yourself spending all your free time (and money) chasing what you think you want instead of just enjoying your music.

Maynard

 

Thank You Maynard,

 

I got hurt while working and fractured 4 vertebrae so I wasn't doing anything for awhile.I still have the little Chines amp.

 

I just had this fall into my lap for a decent price,so I took it. I'm ultimately going to go with a custom built or an older unit and have it redone, but want to experience a few different amps and tube types. I don't think I'll have an issue selling this one or the other to someone who is in my shoes and just getting into them.

 

As for me biasing, I can still do that as I have a boatload of tubes. So I can take these out, put in another quad, and bias them if that made sense.

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Jim, it's nice to see you back on here again!  It has been a long time.  Regarding your tubes, by 50 to 100 hours all of the parameters should be running totally stable in a particular amp.  The way it sounds at that point should be your reference.  I advise people to bias the output tubes when first installed (see, if you stayed with single ended you wouldn't have to be bothered!!!), and do it again at 50-100 hours.  After that, quite frankly, if the amp sounds wonderful don't worry about it.  And Derrick gave you good advice about not spending a fortune on tubes.  There's so much ridiculous hype out there that one can easily get sucked in.  I've seen threads where someone insists that the shape of the getter exerts a profound influence on the sound.  Then, suddenly, the cost of brand XXX with getter type "A" goes through the roof and the supply disappears.  Yes, internal construction can exert some influence on the sound in some circuits because of interelectrode capacitance differences.  You have to be the judge of that.  If I were to say that a 1959 GE tube, manufactured on March 22nd, sounds best in your amp, you may try it and think it sounds awful.  So, don't get too caught up in the tube rolling or you may find yourself spending all your free time (and money) chasing what you think you want instead of just enjoying your music.

Maynard

 

Maynard or Derrick,

 

So am I correct when I say I only need to adjust the EL34B's? And what type of meter would you recommend?

 

So I'm assuming the 6H1N's don't need it also as I don't see anything near them for adjustment.

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I can't help with biasing Jim.  My amp is a hybird with a tube preamp section and a SS rear.  I don't think biasing is as critical with the hybird amps compared to a conventional tube amp.  Maybe Maynard can answer both our questions. :)

Edited by derrickdj1
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Jim, it's nice to see you back on here again!  It has been a long time.  Regarding your tubes, by 50 to 100 hours all of the parameters should be running totally stable in a particular amp.  The way it sounds at that point should be your reference.  I advise people to bias the output tubes when first installed (see, if you stayed with single ended you wouldn't have to be bothered!!!), and do it again at 50-100 hours.  After that, quite frankly, if the amp sounds wonderful don't worry about it.  And Derrick gave you good advice about not spending a fortune on tubes.  There's so much ridiculous hype out there that one can easily get sucked in.  I've seen threads where someone insists that the shape of the getter exerts a profound influence on the sound.  Then, suddenly, the cost of brand XXX with getter type "A" goes through the roof and the supply disappears.  Yes, internal construction can exert some influence on the sound in some circuits because of interelectrode capacitance differences.  You have to be the judge of that.  If I were to say that a 1959 GE tube, manufactured on March 22nd, sounds best in your amp, you may try it and think it sounds awful.  So, don't get too caught up in the tube rolling or you may find yourself spending all your free time (and money) chasing what you think you want instead of just enjoying your music.

Maynard

 

Maynard or Derrick,

 

So am I correct when I say I only need to adjust the EL34B's? And what type of meter would you recommend?

 

So I'm assuming the 6H1N's don't need it also as I don't see anything near them for adjustment.

 

Jim, I sent you an email this morning.  Let me know if you didn't get it for some reason.

 

Maynard

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Jim, it's nice to see you back on here again!  It has been a long time.  Regarding your tubes, by 50 to 100 hours all of the parameters should be running totally stable in a particular amp.  The way it sounds at that point should be your reference.  I advise people to bias the output tubes when first installed (see, if you stayed with single ended you wouldn't have to be bothered!!!), and do it again at 50-100 hours.  After that, quite frankly, if the amp sounds wonderful don't worry about it.  And Derrick gave you good advice about not spending a fortune on tubes.  There's so much ridiculous hype out there that one can easily get sucked in.  I've seen threads where someone insists that the shape of the getter exerts a profound influence on the sound.  Then, suddenly, the cost of brand XXX with getter type "A" goes through the roof and the supply disappears.  Yes, internal construction can exert some influence on the sound in some circuits because of interelectrode capacitance differences.  You have to be the judge of that.  If I were to say that a 1959 GE tube, manufactured on March 22nd, sounds best in your amp, you may try it and think it sounds awful.  So, don't get too caught up in the tube rolling or you may find yourself spending all your free time (and money) chasing what you think you want instead of just enjoying your music.

Maynard

 

Maynard or Derrick,

 

So am I correct when I say I only need to adjust the EL34B's? And what type of meter would you recommend?

 

So I'm assuming the 6H1N's don't need it also as I don't see anything near them for adjustment.

 

Jim, I sent you an email this morning.  Let me know if you didn't get it for some reason.

 

Maynard

 

 

 

Personal email or forum email?

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