Coytee Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Camry (2005) seems to be making "that noise". How do you describe the rotational, speed related whuh whuh whuh noise that a car makes when the bearing is going bad? Prefer to do myself, got the tools other than maybe a puller. Might be a good excuse to buy what I don't have. I see some brands on a website: I know the Timkin brand but my main issue is, I want to keep clear of a part made in china if that is at all possible. I don't care if it's made in Japan or the USA....I just don't want china. Don't care if that means it costs more. Looking to get the whole front assembly so I don't have to remove the knuckle and drive 15 miles one way to have them pressed in/out. I can just replace in driveway and be done. Any of these brands specifically good brands verses china? Beck ArnleyCentricDormanFirst Equipment QualityGenuineGMBLiquid WrenchLoctiteLucas OilNationalNSKPilotProntoQuality-BuiltSta-LubeTimkenWagner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 (edited) depending on which axle it is, you might need a Press... but if you remove the part (hub) any competent shop can do it for you for not a lot of money. some bearings are NOT pressed in, it just depends. most of those are fine... for a camry. how much does the Nippon NSK cost in comparison? Edited July 31, 2015 by Schu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USNRET Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Richard, have you visited Rock Auto dot com? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 I used to sell auto parts, but I couldn't tell you what is made where, anymore, but Timkin was top of the line, as well as Dorman. Dorman was an American company and has been around for 100 years. Geez, I just googled it and it seems that Dorman is just a shell company, a brand name with parts sourced from China. Same with Timkin, which used to be made in Canton, Ohio. I can't help you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigStewMan Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 You guys are smart…no way, i’d be able to repair something of this magnitude. I follow the advice of my uncle, “time to jack up the battery and put a new car under it." 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Yeah. Years ago I had a case with Dana axle which used a Timkin bearing. It was generally agreed that Timkin was the best. One issue was that at least one other company sold their bearing as a replacement but it did not have the same construction at all. The lesson is perhaps true today. Just because someone markets their product as a drop in replacement, it might very well be quite different. BTW, are you sure it is the bearing? A CV joint might make a similar noise. OTOH, if the bearing is bad, I think the rotor might be source of the noise, which is not to say you don't have a bearing problem. WMcD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MORE KLIPSCH PLEASE Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 (edited) The make of bearing in the Camry will be NSK, SKF, Koyo or a NTN. I don't think you can get the knuckle. Even new through Toyota it will come with-out the bearing in it. I have people stop buy my shop quite a bit with a knuckle and a bearing and ask me to press it in. On that Camry you will have to take the knuckle off to press the bearing.... 1st you have to press the hub out... 2nd you got to get the big snap ring out from the inside of the knuckle... 3rd you have to press the bearing out from the out-side in then you will have to get the inner race off the hub from the old bearing...they all stay on all the time... This job has a standard book time of 2.4 hours....it's no walk in the park to do one of these bearings... With that said...I would take the knuckle off and take it to a shop that will work with ya.... most of the the time I charge $75 cash to do one of those..... Yes rockauto is the place... No CV joints do not make a whuh whuh whuh type of noise....they "click" when turning under low speed power. Most of the time CV joints do not go bad till the outer boot splits open.. Good luck MKP :-) Edited August 1, 2015 by MORE KLIPSCH PLEASE 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 CV: there is none of the traditional clicking type noises when steering wheel is at full lock. I'm debating on changing those too "since I'm in there" but right now, everything to me points to the bearing. Car has over 150K miles so it's not unreasonable to swap a couple parts out. What is difficult is the sound is simply "in" the car. It's not really directional sounding as though it's coming from the front, rear or side. I've had all four wheels off the ground and rotated each wheel. None of them exhibit a metallic sound....although EACH of them will show a very slight "schwing" at one point in their rotation but, that could be rotor/pad situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MORE KLIPSCH PLEASE Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Pin pointing a bear noise in a car can be a pain in the a** sometimes... I will PM ya.. MKP :-) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 (edited) I'm sure that MKP is absolutely correct. And I went too far in over generalizing. Though I recall that a couple of my universal joints on the drive line of my Volvo made waka, waka plus clicks. Smile. I also had a very bad experience with a co-worker who conned me into working on his car. In the long run he had totally lied to me. It seems that his brother in law had totally screwed up a wheel bearing repair. WMcD WMcD Edited August 1, 2015 by William F. Gil McDermott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USNRET Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 I'm sure that MKP is absolutely correct. And I went too far in over generalizing. Though I recall that a couple of my universal joints made waka, waka plus clicks. Smile. I had a very bad experience with a co-worker years ago, who had a bearing problem, as it turned out and wanted help, free help of course, from the office amateur mechanic. What can, and the big castleated (sp) nut on the axle stub is about to fall off with almost no engagement and there is no cotter pin. I say, another lawyer. So he says the car is making an odd noise. I ask where it is coming from. He says he doesn't know. Front or rear. Answer, I don't know. Let of right, I don't know. So I drove the car down the street and it is making horrible noises and pulling with brake application and I'm afraid to move it at all. So I jack it up and take off the wheel So I say, what the heck, (Bozo} who has been working on this? (Guy is a total lie teller.) I say, take it back to the shop who did the work. He says he can't because it was done by his brother in law at the shop. I say, back anyway. He says, the brother in law got fired for doing bad work and if they complain he can't get another job. I walked away from the whole situation. WMcD As a Texas girl would say in this sit-u-a-tion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Sorry, I was editing that and didn't get to tell the story in a coherent way. The owner was totally conning me and thought he could get away with it. The moment of truth was when I took of the wheel and the nut on the axle stub was about to fall off having only one or two turns engaging no cotter pin at all. It is one of those things you learn in life. Someone who asks for help and pleads confusion or ignorance, is actually a con artist. Grrr, WMcD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seadog Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Other than loose dimensional tolerances, poor surface finish, and questionable metallurgy, what is so wrong with Chinese bearings? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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