mark1101 Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 OK, I'll end the hijack (sorry). Google "why are my LED bulbs so hot"...........it's a very common issue. We have a lot of ceiling recessed "can" lights to boot. Like French Fry lights in our kitchen 12 of them. OK back to last topic of system electrical draw. I have approx. 3300 wpc, plus a PC, TV, dish network, and all my stereo components plugged into one 15 amp circuit. Never a problem. I really have no idea how much power it uses. But probably not much at all. Find another way to keep the beer cold and it will save you more than efficient amplifiers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 I am retired and we are trying to keep our bills as low as possible. We have a 7400 gallon pond (which runs 24x7), and the HT which is on for 12 or more hours a day. We have replaced all of our lights with LEDs, HVAC multizone and super efficient. We have knocked our electric bill down to about $100 a month. By doing this it gives me the money for the beer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 (edited) Last night we had a quick power loss (so quick that we saw the lights flicker, but didn't have to reset the clocks), but my Monster Power Filter saw it and switched off the outputs, and went into standby (usual situation for a power loss). When I turned it back on I had a problem with the Xilica... Front 3 channels no longer had bass. I have since reset the Xilica, and re-input the crossover settings, but now my left and right channels have only the horns and the center has the bass bin and the horn. I can't figure out why as I copied the settings from the left Bass bin, and Left Horn to their respective positions (Center and Right channels). I have attached my left channel and my center channel images for BB, and Horns...can anyone see what is going on? Disregard the mute buttons as i was testing to make sure the bass bin had zero signal... they were not muted when I tested through my Dirac as a source.. Center Bass bin: Left Bass bin: Center Horn: Left Horn: Edited April 12, 2016 by ellisr63 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 (edited) I think we went through something like this before. Could you draw or describe your complete signal path from source music files (or analog out) to loudspeakers? I recall the issue before was some upstream component (a box or a piece of software) that wasn't described in the setup. I'd hate to be focused on the piece of the puzzle that wasn't the actual issue. BTW: you should be able to recall your settings used on the Xilica from before the event, IIRC, just like the Yamaha and the ElectroVoice crossovers that I've dealt with. That usually clears up everything. Chris Edited April 12, 2016 by Chris A 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 I think we went through something like this before. Could you draw or describe your complete signal path from source music files (or analog out) to loudspeakers? I recall the issue before was some upstream component (a box or a piece of software) that wasn't described in the setup. I'd hate to be focused on the piece of the puzzle that wasn't the actual issue. BTW: you should be able to recall your settings used on the Xilica from before the event, IIRC, just like the Yamaha and the ElectroVoice crossovers that I've dealt with. That usually clears up everything. Chris Hi Chris, I tried recovering the old setting but it made zero difference. I will go from the speakers backwards... Speakers>11 Channel amp>Xilica XP-4080>Dirac DDRC-88a>Yamaha CXA-5100 When I am doing the tests through the Dirac it sends it's own test signals so my Yamaha doesn't even have to be on...other than for me to view the Dirac software on my screen. The Xilica can be controlled via the unit, but it is much easier to do some of it via the PC software. What I do is select what I want to change and then look on the unit to adjust it. For some reason when I save the config I have, and then try to load a different one I don't see any changes. If I input changes via the way i described earlier I see the changes quickly. Maybe the unit was effected by the power issue, and it no longer loads the tune properly??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 (edited) Can you do the settings through the front panel? I'd start there, making sure that the settings are correct, then store into a new setting configuration. Then you can switch back and forth between the old and restored (and stored again) settings. I'd also make sure that the unit has a cold start - as in disconnect the power to the unit, wait 30-60 seconds, then restart by plugging it back in again. Edited April 12, 2016 by Chris A 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 I can do the settings from the front panel, but it is difficult to find where they are...that is why I select the setting i want to adjust, and then look at the panel and it is there on the screen. I then do all the settings that are in that section from the front panel. I will save the one i just finished from the ground up and then disconnect the power and load the old one again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 I loaded the old calibration, and it was not the same as the original old cal. It had some of the new and the old. I tested it and the same problem is still there. Maybe i need to leave it unplugged over night to make sure that it is fully drained? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 No, I'd check everything upstream of the unit first - like taking out your "Dirac" (whatever that unit is actually doing) and trying the system without it. I'm a bit leery of remotely programming digital crossovers using means that seem to be unreliable in making updates or changes to the crossover remotely. That's where I'd start the troubleshooting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kg4guy Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 (edited) I loaded the old calibration, and it was not the same as the original old cal. It had some of the new and the old. I tested it and the same problem is still there. Maybe i need to leave it unplugged over night to make sure that it is fully drained? Hi Ron I have one of the Xilica processors the Danley DSL P48 to run my SH96HO's in bi amp mode . Xilica has great support just give them a call or email them and they get back to you fast. I always dread getting a new processor as learning its in's and out's ,No pun intended , is never fun. Below are the settings for the SH96HO's in bi amp mode it also has passive networks you just get more output in bi amp mode Edited April 12, 2016 by kg4guy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 But I don't personally think it's a good idea to try something that complicated for your first active system No disrespect to anyone but I went active cold turkey and have zero background in electronics. If I can make it happen, I'd think most could. Now, though I can see where doing a full blown HT surround might be a challenge.... I also think one would simply take it one step at a time. Get fronts working right.... add rears, get them working right, add others.... Just do it in layers. Most of this active stuff, if you stay in Roy's world is more plug & play than having to artistically create something, no?? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 I loaded the old calibration, and it was not the same as the original old cal. It had some of the new and the old. I tested it and the same problem is still there. Maybe i need to leave it unplugged over night to make sure that it is fully drained? Hi Ron I have one of the Xilica processors the Danley DSL P48 to run my SH96HO's in bi amp mode . Xilica has great support just give them a call or email them and they get back to you fast. I always dread getting a new processor as learning its in's and out's ,No pun intended , is never fun. Below are the settings for the SH96HO's in bi amp mode it also has passive networks you just get more output in bi amp mode I sent them an email this morning... I am pretty sure something failed since even when I load a old save it doesn't load completely. Hopefully it will not take long to fix. One thing i did notice that is strange... You can't do the DTS-10 subs with it as it only allows you to input to 20hz, and the DTS-10 specs say to use a 10hz 20db cut for the low end (HiPass?) I wonder if it is a firmware update or if I have to actually buy a Danley Xilica crossover?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 But I don't personally think it's a good idea to try something that complicated for your first active system No disrespect to anyone but I went active cold turkey and have zero background in electronics. If I can make it happen, I'd think most could. Now, though I can see where doing a full blown HT surround might be a challenge.... I also think one would simply take it one step at a time. Get fronts working right.... add rears, get them working right, add others.... Just do it in layers. Most of this active stuff, if you stay in Roy's world is more plug & play than having to artistically create something, no?? I had it all working since August of last year, but i have to say working around the LED screen on the unit is not easy as the instructions do not tell how the tree structure is, and you have to jump around to find where the settings are. Once you can get down the tree to where you need to be it is pretty easy. The easy way is to use the windows interface, but even that is a little confusing...luckily we are just using it for the front three channels and as a splitter for the subs since it appears the XP4080 doesn't go low enough for the DTS-10s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 I just got 2 emails from Xilica... One asked me for my config files to see if that was the problem, and the other email came a couple of hours later (from a different person) telling me to return it and included a RMA #. I decided to call the first person to make sure I am to return it as I sent 2 emails to Xilica, and i am not sure if the RMA is because of the files or that the problem is being handled by 2 different people. They def got back to me quick. I really hope it is my error, and just a config problem as I don't want to be without for several weeks. I was hoping they would have a service center in California, but it appears it has to go to New York if it is to be serviced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 I'd like to know the outcome. It's been my experience that digital crossovers are fairly rugged boxes - good for rough "roadie mishandling" - someone inadvertently grounding one leg of the three phase, etc. and the unit still functions. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 I'd like to know the outcome. It's been my experience that digital crossovers are fairly rugged boxes - good for rough "roadie mishandling" - someone inadvertently grounding one leg of the three phase, etc. and the unit still functions. Chris I just swapped my inputs for #1 (left), and #3(center) per Tech support, and the problem moved to the center channel. This I would think indicates a failure, but I am waiting for Tech Support to get back to me before I RMA the unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 Problem solved... The 11 channel Yamaha has 2 channels that died. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Because of the power glitch? Or totally un related? Just curious. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 (edited) Well, a guess that vindicates the Xilica...bummer on the Yamaha, however. It's nice that Xilica tech support helped you out finding the issue. That's something. Chris Edited April 13, 2016 by Chris A 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 Because of the power glitch? Or totally un related? Just curious. Yup it has to be from the power glitch. I am waiting for a friend to get back to me to find out if it has internal fuses that might have blown. It figures my Yamaha Power amp was purchased used and my pre amp was purchased new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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