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Subwoofer swap


derrickdj1

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That's my next tool, I need a router jig that can cut a circle. I've just been using a jigsaw.

 

 

Jasper Jig!!!!!!!!

 

A subwoofer builders best friend.  Worth every penny.  Pick your diameter size, drill an 1/8" hole in the center and machine a perfect circle every time. 

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That is a nice router carl.  I am returning the one I got to the store and will look at some those tomorrow.  I have to do the second sub in a couple of weeks. First I have to finish taking down some Ash trees.  In the AM, put in the speaker terminal post, some of the guys put in a Neutrik speakon post.  A little light sanding and start primer on the box.  I think these subs will look better in black.

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Almost heading to the home stretch.  The sub is painted except for the bottom, I hope to flip it later today and paint the bottom.  Tomorrrow, put in the t-nuts and replace the speaker cup after the paint is nice and dry.  The real job will be getting it downstairs.  I am really please with how the poor man's compass thing worked for the baffle holes.

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post-50685-0-83760000-1439481906_thumb.j

Edited by derrickdj1
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The baffle is brace in 3 places.  The baffle is double pieces of 3/4 MDF. The braces are U style mad from 3/4 MDF.  I will remember about the t-nuts for the next one.  I use a large adjustable wrench to clamp the t-nuts and use a drill and long screw to tightly secure it to the wood.  Next time I will also paint the vent rails first.

 

I pick up a saw table and a dolly today.  These should come in handy.  Harbor Frieght is a DIY store  with great prices.  I did not use Rustoleum paint this time.  That stuff had a 1 1/2 day drying time before I coud put the 2nd coat on.  I used Gliden black satin.  A little gloss but not to much.

Edited by derrickdj1
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I used Gliden black satin.

 

Good choice.  I used flat black once and never will again.  It's great for not reflecting light but it collects dust like crazy and is extremely difficult to clean as the properties that keep it from reflecting light (roughness) are what holds dust.

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Well, this morning I got the monster down to the HT area.  I didn't realize how large this thing is.  I think I can fit one of the large vented or dual UM 18's inside of this thing.  This sub sounds nice.  I need to do a little paint touchup from putting the driver in and when the sub was flipped to paint the bottom some of the paint on the top came off.  A little light sanding touchup should do the trick.  Final pic's pending. :)

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Here is a pic comparing size to my old Chase 18 in. sub in a 4 1/2 cu ft. box.  They are align evenly on the right side.  I can put two of these in there, lol. The new box is wider and deeper than the Chase or Dayton boxes.  I hooked the new sub into  the amp that I was using to drive the stacked 18's.  I went to set the level and it was the same.  No adjustments necessary.  I won't fool around will recalibrating the system until I get the next one done.

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Edited by derrickdj1
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