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Subwoofer swap


derrickdj1

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.... Later, I will discuss the choice for vented subs.  Some of the things included should make for some interesting discussion.

 

Good to know. I've only owned sealed subs, but my spaces were never that large, usually in the 13' x 16' range (nothing big like 20' x 30' or larger). I wasn't moving a lot of air.... in the past or now. So my needs have always been different from those pressurizing larger spaces.

 

** Ported vs. Sealed vs. Vented 

 

** Dual Subs vs. Single

 

** Dual Drivers vs. Single Drivers

 

** Extension vs. Output

 

** Frequency Response as effected by Room Gain

 

** Frequency Response On Axis measurements vs. (real world potential of) Off Axis of MLP 

 

** DIY vs ID

 

Lot's of considerations, not too mention placement, orientation, phase, crossover, rollover, REW, mid bass, low base, ultra low base, etc. Lot's to understand when selecting a proper sub for one's space & needs. I've always relied on others who are far more versed than me, to steer me in the right direction. I've got a new sub coming next week, so I relied heavily on expertise from other sources.

 

I'll be following your thread to check your progress, testing, measurements & results. I've been curious what size room/space are you placing your new project in?

 

 

EDIT: I didn't even mention IB Subs.... or Front or Folded Horn Loaded Subs... or Transducers/Shakers. (my head is spinning)

Edited by Nismo
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Derrick, if these subs don't do the trick for you, the only thing left will be a hearing test. I trust you have checked your homeowner's insurance for foundation repair. Good to see your photo and find out you don't look like your avatar, which quite frankly, creeps me out! Good luck with your project, sounds like you're having fun.

Edited by MookieStl
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The setup has been fine even with my Chase subs, but my problem is that I got caught up in the ULF thing and went off the deep end, lol.  I can without a doubt say that the full Marty is one of the best subs that I have heard.  With the RF 7's XO at 50 Hz, it covers the bottom end with class.  I will go out on a limb and say better than most of the sealed sub that I have owned.

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I have finally had time to calibrate the system and juggle around the subs.  The HT now has six subs.  The Mini and full Marty are great additions to the HT.  The goal was to increase the ULF.  I have added walls, doors and more subs to the HT since moving the system in the basement.  The problem with basement, you loose about 10-15 db being on concrete and in a large open space.  The solution:

 

1.)  More subs

2.) Make the space smaller

3.) build a riser or platform for the seating

4.) sealed vs vented subs

 

Sealed subs work if the space is less than 2500 cu ft.  They have a slower roll-off and extend lower. They are a bit harder to build and care is needed in getting the right port size They are also more space friendly.  The disadvantages, you need a lot of them to achieve ULF but, 10 Hz and lower is possible.  They require more power and the cost of strong drivers with decent xmas.  When I started this journey sealed  dual subs seem like a good I deal and they have worked well in the large HT.

 

Vented subs can be just as good for music.  Low tuned vented subs can be quick, accurate and good trasient response.  Chasing single digits Hz in a large room is expensive and takes a lot of work.  I converted to more vented subs and increasing the 15 Hz and up spl and ULF.  The Mini and full Marty are excellent subs design by John, LTD 02 on the AVS forum.  These are very large subs and may not be pratical in smaller spaces or a non-dedicated HT.  Both are capable of tremendoud output  and are comparable to :

 

1. JTR Cap 1400

2. PSA V 3600

3. RA Echo 18 XL

 

All these subs cost $2000-2600.  Since I already had driverss the Mini and full Marty were very economical to build. DIY is the best bang for the buck when it come to wooferage!  I would love to post some FR graph but., since switch to Windows 10, the correct spl is not shown on the graphs.

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I have finally had time to calibrate the system and juggle around the subs.  The HT now has six subs.  The Mini and full Marty are great additions to the HT.  The goal was to increase the ULF.  I have added walls, doors and more subs to the HT since moving the system in the basement.  The problem with basement, you loose about 10-15 db being on concrete and in a large open space.  The solution:

 

1.)  More subs

2.) Make the space smaller

3.) build a riser or platform for the seating

4.) sealed vs vented subs

 

Sealed subs work if the space is less than 2500 cu ft.  They have a slower roll-off and extend lower. They are a bit harder to build and care is needed in getting the right port size They are also more space friendly.  The disadvantages, you need a lot of them to achieve ULF but, 10 Hz and lower is possible.  They require more power and the cost of strong drivers with decent xmas.  When I started this journey sealed  dual subs seem like a good I deal and they have worked well in the large HT.

 

Vented subs can be just as good for music.  Low tuned vented subs can be quick, accurate and good trasient response.  Chasing single digits Hz in a large room is expensive and takes a lot of work.  I converted to more vented subs and increasing the 15 Hz and up spl and ULF.  The Mini and full Marty are excellent subs design by John, LTD 02 on the AVS forum.  These are very large subs and may not be pratical in smaller spaces or a non-dedicated HT.  Both are capable of tremendoud output  and are comparable to :

 

1. JTR Cap 1400

2. PSA V 3600

3. RA Echo 18 XL

 

All these subs cost $2000-2600.  Since I already had driverss the Mini and full Marty were very economical to build. DIY is the best bang for the buck when it come to wooferage!  I would love to post some FR graph but., since switch to Windows 10, the correct spl is not shown on the graphs.

I hereby declare my envy of your system.

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1=2.

 

I wish I knew how to design the bass system a long time ago but, I really did not know what I wanted.  This has been a fun ride and I have learned a lot along the way.  Sure money could have been save but, the lessons along the way have value and it has been nice to expeierence the progression along the way.

 

This forum has been very valuabel in my audio journey and I have enjoyed learnig this stuff as much as I have enjoyed listening to music and watching movies.  After all, this is a hooby to love.  The wife may flip if I buy some more wood next week, he, he. :D

Edited by derrickdj1
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I really did not know what I wanted

 

I know exactly what you mean.  In all my systems, I typically listen to them when I put them all together.  I gradually change things out until I'm happy with how it sounds.  You don't know what you don't know till you don't know it.

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I did the top and baffle today and will give the glue 24 hours to bond.  Tomorrow, sand things down and prime coat the sub.  I built this Marty sub to be located about 20 ft. from the MLP, otherwise I would have built another Mini Marty to match.  The Marty will be in a location that you can't see from the HT area.  I may place it in the second spot with a long distance to the MLP.  I will have to try it in both locations.  No sub crawl need. :)

Wow that's huge!  Thanks for sharing the build! 

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This project is almost complete.  I built a second Marty sub and tomorrow I will build the second Mini Marty.  The system will basically be 4 Mini Marty, 2 full Marty sub and 2 dual driver subs all with the UM 18 drivers.  I will most likely sell the dual driver subs to free up some space.

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Sealed subs work if the space is less than 2500 cu ft. They have a slower roll-off and extend lower. They are a bit harder to build and care is needed in getting the right port size

Derrick, did you mis speak or am I mis understanding? Port size on a sealed sub?

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That sub with you standing next to it looks like a washer or dryer. That's huge ! What are you going to do with the other subs you are replacing with these??

 

I will have all 8 for awhile and may later sell two. 

 

I did say something incorrectly.  Sealed are easier to build since vented subs need to be a little more precise in their design.

 

I have not had problems with peaks or dips since I had 4 subs.  It makes sub EQ easy, lol.  I watched Transformers Age of Extinction over the week and one of the guess said his back was hurting after the movie.  I had the shakers and subs going, lol.  He had back disc repaired last year.  I may have to post warning signs, he, he.

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Edited by derrickdj1
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