rockhound Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 I would like to incorporate an equipment rack above the sub has anyone done that? My setup would be similar to mallets with the F-20 between La Scala's. Then my equipment above the F-20. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 I would like to incorporate an equipment rack above the sub has anyone done that? My setup would be similar to mallets with the F-20 between La Scala's. Then my equipment above the F-2 Shouldn't be a problem as long as you don't sit it directly on the sub. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhound Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Carl- I'm contiplating pulling my MC-2105 and peach and sticking my Marantz AVR in it's place. I have been reading the thread over on AVS and most use some type of calibration software to get things dialed in, the only tool I have is the Marantz which has audyssey multi eq. Would this be an advantage or disadvantage over the Mac/peach setup I have now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 It MAY be an advantage as far as room EQ goes but you may give up a little SQ. Are you going to use this for HT, 2 channel or both? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Well, I have done a little Duratex practicing on my little speaker project and I really like this stuff! It goes on easy and you can manipulate the texture with how much you apply with the 2nd coat. I went with the conventional "stipple" finish but did try the "leatherette" look on some scrap and my go that route when I do the F-20. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhound Posted October 10, 2015 Share Posted October 10, 2015 Hpower looks good that stuff is so forgiving I love it! Carl primarily music. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 The Mac and Peach will probably sound better for music but I'm not sure how you'd fit room EQ into that set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Hey Beechnut, Have you decided on which model that you are going to build? I went with the Cinema F-20, mainly because of the lower cost and ease of build. This weekend I was able to get a start and have all the panels dry fitting with pocket screws. Next I will cut and fit the braces, then take it all apart and reassemble with the PL. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Looks great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 (edited) Looks great! Thanks Carl After I was about half way through my dry fit yesterday it dawned on me that I could have cut all my braces to my layout before doing any assembly. I figured I could have positioned the braces on the inside of the 1st side (tacked in position with a couple of screws) and then used them as stops to position the panels as I went along. When screwing the panels down from the opposite side of the brace, the pocket screws would push the panels against the brace. Then, once everything has been dry fitted (basically where I am now) I would un-tack the braces from the side panel and move them up 1/2 way and they should be a perfect fit. This would also ensure all the panels are square and perpendicular to the side panel. If I build a 2nd one, I will try this approach, as per this layout. Edited October 19, 2015 by HPower 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 This may be a little confusing but..................................... When I draw my braces out, I use the box as a template. I'll have one panel permanently installed and have the next panel clamped to a square and set in place. I'll then place a piece of scrap stock on top and reach inside and trace the pattern on the scrap. Once it's cut I'll pocket screw it to the stationary piece and dry fit it together to be sure everything remains perpendicular and square. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Not confusing, Without me giving a lot of thought initially, that is how I was planning to go about it. But when I was thinking about the other approach, I am thought it would help with positioning the panels. I am guessing I would hardly need to clamp while dry fitting with the pocket screws. When I do my final assembly with the PL, I will take a few picks to simulate my idea. If it looks like it will be a good technique, I will keep in in mind for future builds. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 But when I was thinking about the other approach, I am thought it would help with positioning the panels. I am guessing I would hardly need to clamp while dry fitting with the pocket screws. Pre cutting braces is convenient but cutting panels to the actual build is some times more accurate. It's easy to get everything to fit on paper but sometimes things move slightly during assembly and pre cut panels will need to be altered. If you pocket screw bracing on one side, you can nail gun the other accessible side and move on with out clamping. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 I have been dragging my A$$ the last couple days but yesterday I did get all the bracing put in. Carl, I followed your technique for cutting and installing the braces, worked out great. I forgot to take a pic with the mouth brace in and all painted black. Hopefully after work tonight I can get the last side glued on. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Looks great! Why is the driver baffle black? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Looks great! Why is the driver baffle black? That is a 3M glued layer of Shower Pan Liner to the baffle to act like a gasket to ensure a better seal for the woofer. Not sure if it was necessary but I had a bunch of it from previous speaker builds. I also used it to form the gasket for the trapdoor. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Not sure if it was necessary The woofer gasket works great alone but I'm sure it can't hurt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 He it is with just one coat of Duratex, still waiting for Thursday's Speakon order to arrive. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 (edited) I have noticed a lot of people use speakon connectors on the sub. I always worried about then keeping a tight fit down the road. I just used speaker cups with the binding post. The project looks great! Edited November 4, 2015 by derrickdj1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I have noticed a lot of people use speakon connectors on the sub. I always worried about then keeping a tight fit down the road. I just used speaker cups with the binding post. The project looks great! Thanks, I am happy with the way it turned out. Although, after looking again at the 2 previous pics, I think I will go in and fill the pocket screw holes in the mouth and repaint. This will be the first time I have used any Speakon connections. I figured since I am going to power it with a pro amp (Crown XLS 1500), I might as well use pro connections. With Speakons usually used on most road cases... if they work for touring bands, surely they will work in my basement. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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