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Beechnut

DIY Subwoofer - lilmike's Cinema F-20 vs lilwrecker

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I would like to incorporate an equipment rack above the sub has anyone done that? My setup would be similar to mallets with the F-20 between La Scala's. Then my equipment above the F-20.

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I would like to incorporate an equipment rack above the sub has anyone done that? My setup would be similar to mallets with the F-20 between La Scala's. Then my equipment above the F-2

 

 

Shouldn't be a problem as long as you don't sit it directly on the sub.

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Carl- I'm contiplating pulling my MC-2105 and peach and sticking my Marantz AVR in it's place. I have been reading the thread over on AVS and most use some type of calibration software to get things dialed in, the only tool I have is the Marantz which has audyssey multi eq. Would this be an advantage or disadvantage over the Mac/peach setup I have now?

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It MAY be an advantage as far as room EQ goes but you may give up a little SQ.  Are you going to use this for HT, 2 channel or both?

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Well, I have done a little Duratex practicing on my little speaker project and I really like this stuff!

 

It goes on easy and you can manipulate the texture with how much you apply with the 2nd coat.

I went with the conventional "stipple" finish but did try the "leatherette" look on some scrap and my go that route when I do the F-20.

 

 

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The Mac and Peach will probably sound better for music but I'm not sure how you'd fit room EQ into that set up. 

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Hey Beechnut,

 

Have you decided on which model that you are going to build?

 

I went with the Cinema F-20, mainly because of the lower cost and ease of build.

This weekend I was able to get a start and have all the panels dry fitting with pocket screws.

Next I will cut and fit the braces, then take it all apart and reassemble with the PL.

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Looks great!

Thanks Carl

 

After I was about half way through my dry fit yesterday it dawned on me that I could have cut all my braces to my layout before doing any assembly.

 

I figured I could have positioned the braces on the inside of the 1st side (tacked in position with a couple of screws) and then used them as stops to position

the panels as I went along.

When screwing the panels down from the opposite side of the brace, the pocket screws would push the panels against the brace.

Then, once everything has been dry fitted (basically where I am now) I would un-tack the braces from the side panel and move them up 1/2 way and

they should be a perfect fit.

This would also ensure all the panels are square and perpendicular to the side panel.

 

If I build a 2nd one, I will try this approach, as per this layout.

 

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Edited by HPower

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This may be a little confusing but.....................................

 

When I draw my braces out, I use the box as a template.  I'll have one panel permanently installed and have the next panel clamped to a square and set in place.  I'll then place a piece of scrap stock on top and reach inside and trace the pattern on the scrap.  Once it's cut I'll pocket screw it to the stationary piece and dry fit it together to be sure everything remains perpendicular and square.

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Not confusing,

Without me giving a lot of thought initially, that is how I was planning to go about it.

 

But when I was thinking about the other approach, I am thought it would help with positioning the panels.

I am guessing I would hardly need to clamp while dry fitting with the pocket screws.

 

When I do my final assembly with the PL, I will take a few picks to simulate my idea.

If it looks like it will be a good technique, I will keep in in mind for future builds.

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But when I was thinking about the other approach, I am thought it would help with positioning the panels. I am guessing I would hardly need to clamp while dry fitting with the pocket screws.

 

Pre cutting braces is convenient but cutting panels to the actual build is some times more accurate.  It's easy to get everything to fit on paper but sometimes things move slightly during assembly and pre cut panels will need to be altered.

 

If you pocket screw bracing on one side, you can nail gun the other accessible side and move on with out clamping. 

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I have been dragging my A$$ the last couple days but yesterday I did get all the bracing put in.

Carl, I followed your technique for cutting and installing the braces, worked out  great.

I forgot to take a pic with the mouth brace in and all painted black.

 

Hopefully after work tonight I can get the last side glued on.

 

 

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Looks great!  Why is the driver baffle black? 

 

That is a 3M glued layer of Shower Pan Liner to the baffle to act like a gasket to ensure a better seal for the woofer.

Not sure if it was necessary but I had a bunch of it from previous speaker builds.

I also used it to form the gasket for the trapdoor.

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Not sure if it was necessary

 

 

The woofer gasket works great alone but I'm sure it can't hurt.

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He it is with just one coat of Duratex, still waiting for Thursday's Speakon order to arrive.

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I have noticed a lot of people use speakon connectors on the sub.  I always worried about then keeping a tight fit down the road.  I just used speaker cups with the binding post.  The project looks great!

Edited by derrickdj1

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I have noticed a lot of people use speakon connectors on the sub.  I always worried about then keeping a tight fit down the road.  I just used speaker cups with the binding post.  The project looks great!

Thanks, I am happy with the way it turned out.

Although, after looking again at the 2 previous pics, I think I will go in and fill the pocket screw holes in the mouth and repaint. :wacko:

 

This will be the first time I have used any Speakon connections.

I figured since I am going to power it with a pro amp (Crown XLS 1500), I might as well use pro connections.

 

With Speakons usually used on most road cases... if they work for touring bands, surely they will work in my basement. :rolleyes:

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