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Sub pops when getting off of the couch.


Mikekid

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Both subs are 3 prong. I'll try an adapter tomorrow and get back. Thanks! :emotion-21:

First things first.

Three prong plugs is what you want, plug them into a KNOWN grounded outlet.

My question is: are these outlets REALLY Grounded? have you checked?

 

Wrong!

 

All your equipment should be grounded at one point only. Everything else should have their grounds isolated (lifted) with a 3 to 2 prong adapter. This lets the system ground "float" and seek it's own level and avoids ground loops (which can be even more dangerous). "Ideally" one would have their audio equipment on a separate circuit using it's own isolated ground (isolated from the rest of the circuits in the building).

 

Yes, check to make sure the electrical outlet that everything is plugged into is actually grounded. Also check that the polarity is correct. Many older homes are not. Floating grounds in home wiring were generally allowed well into the 80's. You can buy a polarity checker at most hardware and electrical parts stores.

 

The electrical ground wire is usually green. If there isn't any green wire in the electrical outlet junction box then the building is just sending the ground through the wiring conduit. Building codes vary by location/community, and change over time.

 

If static electricity is getting in the signal line you might have a loose connection (cable or equipment connector).

 

If you live in a dry climate you might want to consider a humidifier. Also consider a permanent static treatment for the upholstery and carpet.

 

Yeah....

All i did was state NEC.

Start at a known Code source, and work forward.

P.S. never defeated a ground in my life, three prong(s) are there for a reason.

 

Three prong to Two prong adapters can and do, KILL.

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  From post #37

I'm still waitng for an explanation why wrapping a shielded wire in another layer of conductive material (foil) that  I assume is not grounded helps to dissipate static discharges. Anybody?

Edited by babadono
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  • 3 weeks later...

 

 

 

Both subs are 3 prong. I'll try an adapter tomorrow and get back. Thanks! :emotion-21:

First things first.

Three prong plugs is what you want, plug them into a KNOWN grounded outlet.

My question is: are these outlets REALLY Grounded? have you checked?

 

Wrong!

 

All your equipment should be grounded at one point only. Everything else should have their grounds isolated (lifted) with a 3 to 2 prong adapter. This lets the system ground "float" and seek it's own level and avoids ground loops (which can be even more dangerous). "Ideally" one would have their audio equipment on a separate circuit using it's own isolated ground (isolated from the rest of the circuits in the building).

 

Yes, check to make sure the electrical outlet that everything is plugged into is actually grounded. Also check that the polarity is correct. Many older homes are not. Floating grounds in home wiring were generally allowed well into the 80's. You can buy a polarity checker at most hardware and electrical parts stores.

 

The electrical ground wire is usually green. If there isn't any green wire in the electrical outlet junction box then the building is just sending the ground through the wiring conduit. Building codes vary by location/community, and change over time.

 

If static electricity is getting in the signal line you might have a loose connection (cable or equipment connector).

 

If you live in a dry climate you might want to consider a humidifier. Also consider a permanent static treatment for the upholstery and carpet.

 

Yeah....

All i did was state NEC.

Start at a known Code source, and work forward.

P.S. never defeated a ground in my life, three prong(s) are there for a reason.

 

Three prong to Two prong adapters can and do, KILL.

 

Wrong!

 

You didn't read what I said! I did not say to defeat all grounds with a ground lift switch or 3to2 prong adaptor.

 

You're system should be grounded ~ at ONE and ONLY One point.

 

Pro audio equipment have polarity reversal switches as well as "ground lift" switches.

 

If all the pieces of equipment are independently tied to a COMMON ground reference then no current flows in the ground connectors or cable shields. And therein lies the reason for using an isolated ground for the (ideally, dedicated) circuit your system uses.

 

While I realize this can be problematic for most home users, I personally know of many professional bands where the soundman/roadie will pull/install an isolated (single common) ground just for their equipment for that very reason (so no one gets killed).

 

Unfortunately not all audio equipment (especially older vintage equipment) necessarily conform to present day polarity or grounding standards, and neither do older residential construction (highly dependent on local building codes). And that's not taking into account that everything was wired correctly in the first place by the manufacturer or the builder (people make mistakes), or even worse, installed or modified by someone who doesn't know what they are doing.

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If all the pieces of equipment are independently tied to a COMMON ground reference then no current flows in the ground connectors or cable shields.

If it is unbalanced connections(consumer equipment, RCA connectors) current always flows in the shield. Otherwise there is no circuit.

Edited by babadono
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I'm still waitng for an explanation why wrapping a shielded wire in another layer of conductive material (foil) that I assume is not grounded helps to dissipate static discharges. Anybody?

 

Solutions are free.  Finding out "why" is gonna cost ya.

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