Nismo Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 (edited) First, welcome. Second, sub crawl. How did you come up with its current placement? Any way you can post some pics of your room? Or at least give some room dimensions? Klipsch makes some great ATMOS speakers that actually sit on top of your current speakers. I'm sure NIsmo will add his thoughts - he has 4 of these speakers and thinks highly of them. I'd also say look into adding at least one more sub. Thank you. I'll look forward to input on the top mount ATMOS. I saw them but was concerned about the reflecting concept for the higher frequencies. Welcome to the forum glad to see you've put together a great HT setup. Aside from the subs & DAES (Dolby Atmos Enabled Speakers)... we have the same speaker combo. Your room is long... at what point in the length of your space (or how far back) is your MLP? Dolby has calculated the best angle for the upward-firing element based on where most people place their floor-mounted tower and stand-mounted speakers and based on standard ceiling heights. Since it includes reflection angle when using upward firing modules, that also would include a recommended position (distance) of your MLP. That distance from your R / C / L front mains could impact what speaker choice you select for Atmos; in-ceiling or DAES.. Same with the height of your rear surround (RS-7), it seems like Jay L has addressed that placement. As far as the upward firing add-on modules (RP-140SA), you actually want the reflection, it is a required function. The higher FR of the RP-140SA conforms to Dolby's patented treble curve & proprietary directivity standards. Reproducing the height plane is vital to Atmos (via ceiling speakers or DAES) but another benefit of note, an Atmos mixed track is not exclusive to (or limited to) just the overhead or height speakers. An Atmos track will change the experience with all your speakers, & that starts all the way back to the authoring process. Since Atmos is Object Based (each object has its own panning path, left-right, right-left, front-back, overhead, etc), the information & content is sent differently than traditional channel based content, And because the content is not channel based, your AVR manages object based audio (via the Dolby Atmos Renderer) to take full advantage of both the number and placement of all your speakers—including your front L / C / R & subs etc. Edited September 25, 2015 by Nismo 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 (edited) I've been Atmos for almost a year now. And 5.2.4 Atmos with (4) Klipsch RP-140's in place since July. The RP-140SA's work great in my space (16 x 13 x 8). All of the Atmos tracks are distinctly effective & immersive. I'd personally never go back to a non-Atmos configuration. Here's my RF-7 front tower....with the RP-140SA. Edited September 25, 2015 by Nismo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
007nco Posted September 29, 2015 Author Share Posted September 29, 2015 Thank you everyone. I have a little research to do and decide on ceiling and side speaker choices. Possibly a little construction to get a second sub. Will likely have some more questions along they way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 You darn atmos people got my curiosity. Darn, more money down the drain in the future. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busht4169 Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 You darn atmos people got my curiosity. Darn, more money down the drain in the future. Dude, I love and hate NISMO. He forced me (not really) to spend like, all my monies to buy 140SA's of which I have 4 now. NISMO!!!! GRRRRR. Now I have even more dimension to my listening space. How dare you teach me how to achieve better sound fidelity. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 You darn atmos people got my curiosity. Darn, more money down the drain in the future. I've posted a fair amount of Atmos info, but cutting thru all the info, hoopla, buzz, specs, etc., I can say this: I wouldn't go back to a non-Atmos set-up. And I always prefer the Atmos track/ mix over the TrueHD 7.1 or DTS HD Master Audio (non-Atmos) track. ... That is at least until DTS:X gets a proper launch. muhwaa haa haa 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 You darn atmos people got my curiosity. Darn, more money down the drain in the future. Dude, I love and hate NISMO. He forced me (not really) to spend like, all my monies to buy 140SA's of which I have 4 now. NISMO!!!! GRRRRR. Now I have even more dimension to my listening space. How dare you teach me how to achieve better sound fidelity. Make that NISMO GTR (lol). I trust that any of the info I may have presented & posted was fair & accurate. Not selling anything. No dog in this hunt. Only wanted to pass along my personal experience with the new format. I guess in a nutshell its more than "just speakers" or more than just some artificial or simulated codec (stadium, jazz room, rock arena, etc). It all starts up front with an entirely new way to mix & author native content by the sound artist. Glad to learn you've added a total of (2-pair) 4 RP-140's. And even better to learn you enjoy the experience as much as I do. Good stuff !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busht4169 Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 You darn atmos people got my curiosity. Darn, more money down the drain in the future. I've posted a fair amount of Atmos info, but cutting thru all the info, hoopla, buzz, specs, etc., I can say this: I wouldn't go back to a non-Atmos set-up. And I always prefer the Atmos track/ mix over the TrueHD 7.1 or DTS HD Master Audio (non-Atmos) track. ... That is at least until DTS:X gets a proper launch. muhwaa haa haa It just so happens my setup has DTS:X as well. Hmmm, see you in the digital sound realm. We are pioneer's!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
007nco Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 Thanks so much for the info. Nice to just enjoy it a bit, tune it to my preferences and research what's next. Trying to find a good power filter unit to protect it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 look into surge x. they are supposed to be great units. couple other comparable brands. everything else is just something that looks really pretty but doesn't actually protect anything. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 http://www.surgex.com/residential.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
007nco Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 In advance, apologize for the n00b questions, totally happy with my initial Klipsch set-up! Thanks Scrappy. I found a pretty good deal on a Surge X SX1115 I'm looking at that should do the job although the receiver and two subs would peak at almost 19A? the room itself is on a 20A circuit though... Here is what I'm leaning towards but open to suggestions please. I have now the RF7 set, RC7, and RS7 along with the SW115 15" sub on the Onkyo atmos TX-NR3030 reciever. I can get a pretty good deal on another set of RF7's and a second sw115 sub. If I got the second pair of RF7's would that be ok for rear sound or too much? Or is it better to try to get them on the sides? I can also get two pair of the CDT3800 to run in the ceiling and finally get to use the ATMOS. I'm thinking that would dial it in pretty good and all would fit and work well with only a couple days construction (mostly getting the second sub in) Anything missing or overlooked? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
007nco Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 (edited) First, welcome. Second, sub crawl. How did you come up with its current placement? Any way you can post some pics of your room? Or at least give some room dimensions? Klipsch makes some great ATMOS speakers that actually sit on top of your current speakers. I'm sure NIsmo will add his thoughts - he has 4 of these speakers and thinks highly of them. I'd also say look into adding at least one more sub. Thank you. I'll look forward to input on the top mount ATMOS. I saw them but was concerned about the reflecting concept for the higher frequencies. Welcome to the forum glad to see you've put together a great HT setup. Aside from the subs & DAES (Dolby Atmos Enabled Speakers)... we have the same speaker combo. Your room is long... at what point in the length of your space (or how far back) is your MLP? Dolby has calculated the best angle for the upward-firing element based on where most people place their floor-mounted tower and stand-mounted speakers and based on standard ceiling heights. Since it includes reflection angle when using upward firing modules, that also would include a recommended position (distance) of your MLP. That distance from your R / C / L front mains could impact what speaker choice you select for Atmos; in-ceiling or DAES.. Same with the height of your rear surround (RS-7), it seems like Jay L has addressed that placement. As far as the upward firing add-on modules (RP-140SA), you actually want the reflection, it is a required function. The higher FR of the RP-140SA conforms to Dolby's patented treble curve & proprietary directivity standards. Reproducing the height plane is vital to Atmos (via ceiling speakers or DAES) but another benefit of note, an Atmos mixed track is not exclusive to (or limited to) just the overhead or height speakers. An Atmos track will change the experience with all your speakers, & that starts all the way back to the authoring process. Since Atmos is Object Based (each object has its own panning path, left-right, right-left, front-back, overhead, etc), the information & content is sent differently than traditional channel based content, And because the content is not channel based, your AVR manages object based audio (via the Dolby Atmos Renderer) to take full advantage of both the number and placement of all your speakers—including your front L / C / R & subs etc. Thanks for ALL the great info! My MLP is 16' from screen and R/C/L speakers. I am *thinking of the CDT3800's to angle down to the MLP, set directly overhead and slightly behind and the front set equidistant from rear overhead channels, distance TBD. Edited October 21, 2015 by 007nco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 First, welcome. Second, sub crawl. How did you come up with its current placement? Any way you can post some pics of your room? Or at least give some room dimensions? Klipsch makes some great ATMOS speakers that actually sit on top of your current speakers. I'm sure NIsmo will add his thoughts - he has 4 of these speakers and thinks highly of them. I'd also say look into adding at least one more sub. Thank you. I'll look forward to input on the top mount ATMOS. I saw them but was concerned about the reflecting concept for the higher frequencies. Welcome to the forum glad to see you've put together a great HT setup. Aside from the subs & DAES (Dolby Atmos Enabled Speakers)... we have the same speaker combo. Your room is long... at what point in the length of your space (or how far back) is your MLP? Dolby has calculated the best angle for the upward-firing element based on where most people place their floor-mounted tower and stand-mounted speakers and based on standard ceiling heights. Since it includes reflection angle when using upward firing modules, that also would include a recommended position (distance) of your MLP. That distance from your R / C / L front mains could impact what speaker choice you select for Atmos; in-ceiling or DAES.. Same with the height of your rear surround (RS-7), it seems like Jay L has addressed that placement. As far as the upward firing add-on modules (RP-140SA), you actually want the reflection, it is a required function. The higher FR of the RP-140SA conforms to Dolby's patented treble curve & proprietary directivity standards. Reproducing the height plane is vital to Atmos (via ceiling speakers or DAES) but another benefit of note, an Atmos mixed track is not exclusive to (or limited to) just the overhead or height speakers. An Atmos track will change the experience with all your speakers, & that starts all the way back to the authoring process. Since Atmos is Object Based (each object has its own panning path, left-right, right-left, front-back, overhead, etc), the information & content is sent differently than traditional channel based content, And because the content is not channel based, your AVR manages object based audio (via the Dolby Atmos Renderer) to take full advantage of both the number and placement of all your speakers—including your front L / C / R & subs etc. Thanks for ALL the great info! My MLP is 16' from screen and R/C/L speakers. I am *thinking of the CDT3800's to angle down to the MLP, set directly overhead and slightly behind and the front set equidistant from rear overhead channels, distance TBD. Nice room & nice speakers! Since your room is long... the choice of wide dispersion in-ceiling speakers would be a perfect option for placement & coverage. There are quite a few members who have in-ceiling options for Atmos, I'm sure they will chime in with their impressions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 I think rf-7's are way too much speaker for surrounds myself. I mean if you got tons of room and money sure why not. But why you are at it you better buy an amp too. Cause four rf-7 plus other speakers will start getting very hard for the receiver to handle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willland Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 I think for multichannel music, another pair of RF-7's would be great. If for HT, then I(in my opinion) think they sit too low for surrounds. Either way, as Scrappy pointed out, and good outboard amp might be in order. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 (edited) I found a pretty good deal on a Surge X SX1115 I'm looking at that should do the job although the receiver and two subs would peak at almost 19A? the room itself is on a 20A circuit though... I'm a SurgeX dealer, I use several personally and have read and talked to their reps and tech support a ton. What you'll find with SurgeX is that the only choking down it does on the input, at least within its power rating, is that it's just some extra copper to go through. You'll find more copper between the unit and the breaker box, which will choke it down more than the unit itself. What you've got to be careful with is MOV based units, which do choke it down. For example SnapAV has a sequencer that they rate for 15 amps but when tested it can only provide 12 amps to what's plugged into it. This is fairly normal. This is why everybody says to never plug a power amp into a surge protector. With SurgeX, that doesn't really matter, it's built differently. IF you did expect to pull 19 amps all the time you may want to consider going to an actual 20 amp unit. For example I'm running the SX-1120-RT for my subs. There is also a sequencer that is rated for 20 amps. But yes, like scrappy said, series mode surge protectors like SurgeX actually protect against direct lightning strike, and can do it over and over in a simulated environment for what amounts to 200 years straight. Due to arcing at the breaker panel and whatnot, 6,000 volts / 3,000 amps is the worst that can get inside your house, and these things just eat that up like it's nothing, doesn't deteriorate afterward, and doesn't reroute anything to ground like MOV's do, which can damage electronics. It basically loads up internal capacitors with the hit then slowly and safely releases it to the neutral wire. Edited October 21, 2015 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercedesBerater Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 I think rf-7's are way too much speaker for surrounds myself. I mean if you got tons of room and money sure why not. But why you are at it you better buy an amp too. Cause four rf-7 plus other speakers will start getting very hard for the receiver to handle. Scrappy is right. I have four RF7ii's And an RC64ii --- with 8" ceilings being added, and when I can find nice pre-owned RS62's they'll be added on the side.. Even now-- My poor receiver is huffing and puffing trying to get to a moderate level. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
007nco Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 Thanks for that Scrappy and Mercedes. I'm concerned about enough juice as is so don't think I'm ready to open up that Pandora's box quite yet! Plan B is to move RS7's to the back and something like a plate speaker to do the side audio duty. Thanks for the SurgeX info Cory. I may be in touch with you shortly. But I doubt it "should" ever see the full amp draw....never say never right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercedesBerater Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 007 - at low listening levels the receiver sounds plenty fine. The speakers just ask for too much when those big woofers start moving when listening level is turned up & movies have action sequences. If I switch the receiver to pure direct Stereo - it does fine.... But THAT still has its limits even when XO to subwoofer at 80hz It's almost like the sound clarity falls apart & it's just noise with a rhythm instead of crystal clear, pronounced, and controlled music. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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