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16 hours ago, Indyklotz said:

Triceratops

The stands are 16.5” tall which puts the center of the horns at 40” which is at ear-level for me. Originally, I put spikes on the stands but I found the bass to be too much.  My wife wasn’t happy when it rearranged the dishes in the China hutch in the next room. They are mostly made of 2X4s, sheet metal, screws and glue from Home Depot. I can take some pictures from behind if you like.

 

Hi Indyklotz--thanks for the reply! I'd love to see more photos whenever you have time.

 

I have CF-4's and the idea of making stands strong enough to support them is daunting for me. But hopefully I will pick up some tips from your photos.

 

I'll send you a pm with my email in case that is easier than posting multiple photos on the forum.

 

It's amazing to me that the bass was louder with spikes, even with the speaker so far off the ground!

-triceratops

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On 11/17/2020 at 7:50 AM, Indyklotz said:

Triceratops

Email sent. I built mine a little deep just in case I get some CF 4s. I could park a car on these stands. Have fun!!!

 

Thanks Indy! I received the email and replied--hopefully you received it.

I really appreciate your informative contributions to this Forum!

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  • 1 month later...
On 11/9/2020 at 6:10 PM, Indyklotz said:

Hi Guys

First time posting here. I’m a big Klipsch fan. I have some CF 3 version 2s that I have been listening to for about three years now. I graduated from my previous favorite some KLF 10s. The only mods I’ve done are Dynamat on the horns and I built some stands to get the horns to ear level. When I first got the speakers I noticed that one driver K1022 was rubbing/ dragging on the voice coil so I swapped out one of the 10 inch drivers from the KLF 10s K1056. The physical differences that I could see is the K1022 has a much stiffer cone and it has the smaller neodymium magnet. If anyone has a spare K1022 driver to sell let me know Thanks.

 Recently I acquired some Polk Audio SDA SRS 1.2 TLs there Polk’s flagship speakers in very nice shape. So I had to A B compare them with my CF 3s. I run a Yamaha M 85 amp and a CX 1000 pre. At first listening the Polk’s sounded great with nice base and a very wide sound stage. But when I listened to the Klipsch I noticed that the midrange was clearer and that I preferred the Klipsch base. Over the next 2 weeks I had 5 other audiophile friends over Separately to compare Polk vs Klipsch. Long story short everyone preferred the Klipsch sound even my wife!!!
got some photos to check out, let me know if you can part with a K1022 driver, also wondering what CF 4s sound like?

BCEDCC4F-1115-4DE9-B77D-8CFF13E0F49E.jpeg

 

 

Welcome to the Forum! Awesome setup! Thanks for the comparison. Good to know how powerful & efficient the CF3s are. Nice job of the stands, I currently have mine on dollies. lol

 

V_O_R

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I  can't imagine four tweeters and eight mids in an array like that sounding better than a single-point horn mid/high driver with symmetrical woofers.

No matter how hard they math it, an array is always going to have artifacts somewhere.

Glad to see the Epics on good stands.  It's giving me ideas. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anyone do any crossover work on their CF-3 series 1 and/or KV-4?   Capacitor and resistor upgrades with premium parts?  

Looking for someone to do the work as i don't think Dean or Bob work on these OR looking to buy plus trade my stock version 1 CF-3 networks for your upgraded networks. 

While i'm here, anyone got a pair of CF-4 ver. 1 for me to take off your hands in Texas, Louisiana or Arkansas near Tx border? 😁

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15 hours ago, Maximus89 said:

Anyone do any crossover work on their CF-3 series 1 and/or KV-4?   Capacitor and resistor upgrades with premium parts?  

Looking for someone to do the work as i don't think Dean or Bob work on these OR looking to buy plus trade my stock version 1 CF-3 networks for your upgraded networks. 

While i'm here, anyone got a pair of CF-4 ver. 1 for me to take off your hands in Texas, Louisiana or Arkansas near Tx border? 😁

I have the cf3s version 1 and had the crossovers upgraded by Bob Crite a few years back and couldn’t be happier with the results.

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I have the cf3s version 1 and had the crossovers upgraded by Bob Crite a few years back and couldn’t be happier with the results.
I seem to recall Bob replying to me that he doesn't work on these when I first got my pair. Dean If I recall correctly, told me they were a pain in the *** and he wasn't doing them anymore.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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1 hour ago, Maximus89 said:

I seem to recall Bob replying to me that he doesn't work on these when I first got my pair. Dean If I recall correctly, told me they were a pain in the *** and he wasn't doing them anymore.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

Maybe that was the pair that prompted that response.

 

Thanks!

Edited by billybob
OT
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21 hours ago, Maximus89 said:

Anyone do any crossover work on their CF-3 series 1 and/or KV-4?   Capacitor and resistor upgrades with premium parts?  

Looking for someone to do the work as i don't think Dean or Bob work on these OR looking to buy plus trade my stock version 1 CF-3 networks for your upgraded networks. 

While i'm here, anyone got a pair of CF-4 ver. 1 for me to take off your hands in Texas, Louisiana or Arkansas near Tx border? 😁

 

MADISOUND

 

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/

 

Simple. Send them a crossover schematic and they will build a board for you. Printed circuit using high quality parts. You can choose the level of quality. If you want to tweak a circuit design, just send them a valid schematic with the changes and that is what you will get. They are local for me. I have talked with the owners in person multiple times over the years. They build anything you send them. Not brand specific. They design and sell their own models also.

 

Send them this

https://community.klipsch.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=121396

or this

https://community.klipsch.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=121395

 

They will look something like this (for demonstration purposes only)

 

zd5-crossover.jpg

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1 hour ago, 314carpenter said:

 

MADISOUND

 

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/

 

Simple. Send them a crossover schematic and they will build a board for you. Printed circuit using high quality parts. You can choose the level of quality. If you want to tweak a circuit design, just send them a valid schematic with the changes and that is what you will get. They are local for me. I have talked with the owners in person multiple times over the years. They build anything you send them. Not brand specific. They design and sell their own models also.

 

Send them this

https://community.klipsch.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=121396 678.07 kB · 22 downloads

or this

https://community.klipsch.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=121395 254.37 kB · 16 downloads

 

They will look something like this (for demonstration purposes only)

 

zd5-crossover.jpg

Sounds great, but i don't think either of those are the schematic for the version 1 CF-3 which i can't seem to find.  There seems to be a lot of confusion on CF-4 and CF-3 schematics from what i've seen in the past.  

EDIT: Both of those schematics are 100% NOT version 1 or version 2 as the red/black wire is noted. I'll keep looking, but i don't think v1 is around anywhere.

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My mistake, Bob did tell me he CAN replace the caps, but that's it.

"First the crossover cannot be built on a separate board.  The factory board used interactions between closely spaced parts as part of it’s tuning.  All I can do is replace the capacitors. I cannot replace other parts as that would effect the tuning and I cannot modify one crossover type into another type for the same reason." Modifying was in reference to me asking if he could turn a CF-4 V2 network back to V1 and i would have added the longer port tube.

I'm curious if madisound would be able to do that "board interaction between closely spaced parts" with their own board @314carpenter? Bob mentioned it's a very complex crossover.

 
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2 hours ago, Maximus89 said:


"The factory board used interactions between closely spaced parts as part of it’s tuning.

I'm curious if madisound would be able to do that "board interaction between closely spaced parts" with their own board @314carpenter? Bob mentioned it's a very complex crossover.

 

If this is in fact true, then I have no problem saying it is a very poor design choice intended for one single purpose only. What you can do then from this point forward is entirely based on your budget and willingness to move away from the original network. Anyone with the technical capability of measuring and designing a new network for the purpose of solving specific issues with a poorly designed crossover would find it very time consuming and therefore very expensive. There are countless speaker models out there in the world to choose from. A relatively low budget model will never get the attention required to address these kind of things. I own a couple of pairs of speakers, which are of a very highly regarded design, and also happen to have an extremely complex crossover, and parts count alone prevents anyone other than a few motivated owners with high level of talent and knowledge from doing any refinement except on their very own pairs. I am just saying you will likely not locate a tech, service center, or even a DIY'er who will want to do this work at a budget that will commensurate with the value of your speakers. Your choices are very limited. Compromises will need to be made. Or buy new speakers.

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If this is in fact true, then I have no problem saying it is a very poor design choice intended for one single purpose only. What you can do then from this point forward is entirely based on your budget and willingness to move away from the original network. Anyone with the technical capability of measuring and designing a new network for the purpose of solving specific issues with a poorly designed crossover would find it very time consuming and therefore very expensive. There are countless speaker models out there in the world to choose from. A relatively low budget model will never get the attention required to address these kind of things. I own a couple of pairs of speakers, which are of a very highly regarded design, and also happen to have an extremely complex crossover, and parts count alone prevents anyone other than a few motivated owners with high level of talent and knowledge from doing any refinement except on their very own pairs. I am just saying you will likely not locate a tech, service center, or even a DIY'er who will want to do this work at a budget that will commensurate with the value of your speakers. Your choices are very limited. Compromises will need to be made. Or buy new speakers.
I'd probably try and figure out a way to go active 2 way with the K510 and large format driver before all that. My 6 ch McIntosh MC7106 would lend itself very well to that project. I could bridge 320wpc to the LF and 100wpc to each HF or tube amp. The issue is not having a clue how to do an electronic crossover. Its my understanding roy gave the active settings for the Jubilee or using the k402 with la scala lf and people just tweeked from there. Could be wrong and it could be easier than expected?


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  • Klipsch Employees

 

Jim from JEM Performance Audio.  Seems like I need to offer some information about what I do and why I do it with regards to Klipsch Heritage speakers.

 

The capacitors I sell are approved by Klipsch engineering.  I met personally with Roy Delgado over a year ago and discussed Klipsch crossovers in depth.  Roy took the time to explain the differences in capacitor design and how they react in a network.  My desire was to keep the vintage Klipsch models operating as PWK designed them to sound.  This all came about because I had changed the caps in my Klipschorns to the most recommended and advertised capacitors in Klipsch land.  My Klipschorns were not the same after I changed the caps for sure - but not in a good way.  What changed?  First the bass was peaked out, the tweeter was way too bright and the midrange had no life to it.  It no longer sounded like a Klipschorn should; the realism was gone.  I brought this to Roy's attention and he immediately smiled and proceeded to explain what was happening.  You have to use the correct type of capacitor to maintain the specs of the network as designed by Klipsch.  I know there are those out there that will disagree about this but I can tell you that once I installed the caps Roy recommended, the Klipschorns became totally balanced, the bass was smooth and the midrange open and detailed.  I knew others would appreciate having their Klipsch speakers performing as they should, and together Roy and I put together the authorized network repair center.  I only repair Klipsch speakers to factory specifications using authorized factory approved parts.  Your speakers remain a genuine Klipsch product and will perform just as PWK intended.  No modifications, no BULLS**T. 

 

So you are probably wondering why should I believe this guy and how does he know what a Klipsch speaker should sound like?

 

Some background -

 

I have used Klipsch speakers since the 1970s professionally and personally.  I experienced the Klipsch industrial series products in live sound reinforcement.  I used Klipsch speakers exclusively in both of my professional recording studios.  I personally own Klipschorns, LaScalas, Cornwalls, Heresy Is, IIs, and industrial Heresy stage monitors.

 

So you see I do know what a Klipsch speaker should sound like.  We have Roy to thank for getting the correct parts available to keep our vintage pieces of audio history alive and well. 

 

I don't have much time to respond to questions via this forum but I can be reached during normal business hours at theaudioroom@verizon.net or by phone - 412-401-6915.

  

 

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