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kapsnb01

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Looking at possibly just swapping out the KV4’s damaged crossover for another and eventually sending it for repair. It’s clearly marked as an Epic CF2 XO, but one capacitor on the board varied from ‘95 to ‘96 it looks. 
 

The only difference is on mine, one cap is short, fat and orange. On another, it’s tall, slim and purple, also marked C1 on the board. 
 

Would these still sonically be the same?

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Speaking of the kv4. Ive had 320wpc and last night I had 120wpc with a tube pre on it, and its always the weakest link. I used to use full range towers for surround but currently have klipsch ss1 on the wall which apparently have aluminum diaphragms too- even those sound more clear and robust when I give them 320wpc McIntosh amp.

 

Did Roy design the KV4 and the smaller cf2 and cf1?

 

I wish the KV4 was front ported in a longer and deeper cabinet. The horn is nice and solid. The 8" drivers are neo and should be good. The compression driver is the same as the cf3 and 4, so its either the cabinet or the crossover thats the problem. Maybe it needs a recap? Sounds muffled.

If the big KLF30 had the KLFc7 match, the much bigger cf3 and cf4 should have gotten an even bigger center to match their line as well but the kv4 is nearly identical to the c7

 

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17 minutes ago, Maximus89 said:

Speaking of the kv4. Ive had 320wpc and last night I had 120wpc with a tube pre on it, and its always the weakest link. I used to use full range towers for surround but currently have klipsch ss1 on the wall which apparently have aluminum diaphragms too- even those sound more clear and robust when I give them 320wpc McIntosh amp.

Did Roy design the KV4 and the smaller cf2 and cf1?

I wish the KV4 was front ported in a longer and deeper cabinet. The horn is nice and solid. The 8" drivers are neo and should be good. The compression driver is the same as the cf3 and 4, so its either the cabinet or the crossover thats the problem. Maybe it needs a recap? Sounds muffled.
If the big Chorus had the KLFc7 match, the much bigger cf3 and cf4 should have gotten an even bigger center to match their line as well but the kv4 is nearly identical to the c7

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

Curious. KV4 having a 2” tweeter is the biggest differentiator I believe. 
 

As I’m finding out, KV4 and CF2 have quite a few things in common. Same horn, seemingly identical K-64-KN drivers (with my example, the back metal are different colors and one has a screen, another doesn’t), and the XOs are the same save for one cap’s size and color on the board varying by years ‘95 and ‘96 (KV4’s board is marked Epic CF2). 
 

I’m going to update another epic driver thread with this info for more context, and hope it creates more answers than questions. 

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27 minutes ago, Shiva said:

Just to clarify, are the pics showing the horn and driver from a KV-4 and CF2?

Apologies. Yep. Busted KV4 horn next to CF2 horn (identical). Injured (snapped + post) KV4 driver with silver back and screen in snout, next to CF2 driver with dark back (army green) and no snout screen. 
 

 

21 minutes ago, Maximus89 said:

Interesting I always thought the cf2 and the cf1 were phenolic diaphragms in different cds? Is that just the cf1?

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Not 100%, but in my search to repair the KV4 I found the CF1 to not be compatible, atleast not the horn. And the CF1’s 1” cd seems to be unique. I believe the CF3&4 used K-63 (bigger or stronger magnet), and the CF2 & KV4 used K-64, all 2”. The 63 and 64’s diaphragm assembly are the same, and a 64 can be fitted inside a 63 for an exact replacement in case of a blown tweeter. Obviously great as this broadens one’s options. 

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1 hour ago, Micklipsch said:

Looking at possibly just swapping out the KV4’s damaged crossover for another and eventually sending it for repair. It’s clearly marked as an Epic CF2 XO, but one capacitor on the board varied from ‘95 to ‘96 it looks. 
 

The only difference is on mine, one cap is short, fat and orange. On another, it’s tall, slim and purple, also marked C1 on the board. 
 

Would these still sonically be the same?

099A56DA-EA46-4237-B7D3-2AE8FE544AE8.jpeg

7143BFB9-B93B-4084-8C37-BEDB4B6AF6BB.jpeg

Anyone have an opinion on this though? 🙂

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Anyone have an opinion on this though? [emoji846]
I always thought a klfc7 crossover would work just fine. Similar crossover points as well but I never tried it. I have both right now, and with my kv4 lack of love, I might try swapping crossovers and see how it sounds and report back

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My main interest in terms of experimenting is grabbing a cherry rc7. I loved the rc7. It was a beast and my favorite of the klipsch center speakers minus the matching one for the rf7III. I have only heard it as a rear center, but I bet it sounds great.
I do remember thinking the rc7 was a bit too bright but would love to see how my tube pre tames that or if solid state mcintosh room perfect would tame it.

I also would like to try the kv4 compression driver on the rc7. Ultimately i think I'd like to end up with 2 KV4s veneered by me in cherry on stands as surrounds.

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8 minutes ago, Maximus89 said:

My main interest in terms of experimenting is grabbing a cherry rc7. I loved the rc7. It was a beast and my favorite of the klipsch center speakers minus the matching one for the rf7III. I have only heard it as a rear center, but I bet it sounds great.
I do remember thinking the rc7 was a bit too bright but would love to see how my tube pre tames that or if solid state mcintosh room perfect would tame it.

I also would like to try the kv4 compression driver on the rc7. Ultimately i think I'd like to end up with 2 KV4s veneered by me in cherry on stands as surrounds.

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See if this guy would ship.  The price is right.

 

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/ele/d/vista-klipsch-rc-center-channel-speaker/7279122262.html

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18 minutes ago, billybob said:

Would try to read the values on the orange and the purplish blue ones(Bennic?) to see how close they are. 

Think but do not know it will work.

Voltage is primary concern on each one.

It’s just strange as there’s a CF2 XO on eBay with the orange cap. So either it’s from a KV4 and the owner didn’t know that and just read “Epic CF2” on the board, or it’s indeed from a ‘96 (perhaps?) CF2.

 

Also of note is: it seems the differing metal color and maybe lack of snout screen of K-64s possibly varied just due to year. I sourced a set of drivers pulled from CF2s and they’re silver backed with ‘96 date on them, with snout screens. This dark colored CF2 K-64 I have without snout screen is from ‘95. 

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1 minute ago, Micklipsch said:

It’s just strange as there’s a CF2 XO on eBay with the orange cap. So either it’s from a KV4 and the owner didn’t know that and just read “Epic CF2” on the board, or it’s indeed from a ‘96 (perhaps?) CF2.

 

Also of note is: it seems the differing metal color and maybe lack of snout screen of K-64s possibly varied just due to year. I sourced a set of drivers pulled from CF2s and they’re silver backed with ‘96 date on them, with snout screens. This dark colored CF2 K-64 I have without snout screen is from ‘95. 

Apologize for not having more XO 

experience than many others here. 

Will say that different colors of caps can vary and still be the same in value, or even close.

 

This said a question please.

Why are you not using the XO from the broken KV-4? Is it physically damaged besides just cut in insulation wire?

You may have stated your objection before.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Shiva said:

Price is right for local pickup. I'll pay up to $350 for a nice condition, but they usually have dented in woofers and veneer is beat up. There was a nice one in cherry local, but it's gone now. Either they removed it or it sold, but i passed because they wanted too much.  I think some people see the original msrp and price it on that. There's a guy local with a nice Cherry Klipsch RT-12d sub that i've wanted for a while, he's asking for 1,500 and notes that they were over 3k with tax. Hopefully it comes down, but i want it even more now that i have my Cherry CF-4s. I'm not missing much with my RSW-15 though, so not desperate. It's mostly a matching aesthetic based change that i want. The RSW-15 is a tank and surprisingly very good with music. I expected it to just be a movie workhorse. 

Here's a photo of my previous RC-7. Hated the dented woofers, sold them and replaced them with newer drivers with inverted colored dust cap-forget which speaker, smaller RF-7II brother. Much nicer aesthetic. I also had to sand the really beat up cherry veneer and as my Chorus II were black sanded down, and walnut danish oil applied. I went ahead and applied walnut danish oil on the rc-7 to try and match- i didn't know what i was really doing. Didn't match- too light-but nice!
 

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1 hour ago, billybob said:

Apologize for not having more XO 

experience than many others here. 

Will say that different colors of caps can vary and still be the same in value, or even close.

 

This said a question please.

Why are you not using the XO from the broken KV-4? Is it physically damaged besides just cut in insulation wire?

You may have stated your objection before.

 

 

The KV4’s was sadly damaged, yes. 
 

Different caps entirely. Not even sure if it’s safe to use or not? One out of the KV4 is 150v 33MFD. Out of the CF2 is 100v 20MFD.  

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Well nice that have established that much. 

Since doubt remains and not real sure myself, may just post a concise new topic on forum just to answer this specific.

May have to do the same with questions on driver horn to get answers.

Just seems to me that this thread not attracting much in the way of answers, or it is me.

Thanks for your patience...

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6 minutes ago, billybob said:

Well nice that have established that much. 

Since doubt remains and not real sure myself, may just post a concise new topic on forum just to answer this specific.

May have to do the same with questions on driver horn to get answers.

Just seems to me that this thread not attracting much in the way of answers, or it is me.

Thanks for your patience...

Probably right. People probably see it and just think eh, more Epic folk bloviating. lol

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