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On 4/18/2020 at 6:30 PM, SWL said:

That's cool. Looks like you're not too far away either. Wutcha got? Wanna send me some pics and a price?

In the meantime I've got my two pairs of hot rodded 30's so I'm in no big hurry.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

These are still "in process". I decided to remove the black lacquer on mine. Damn they are heavy. Raw oak veneer right now. Not changing that. What color do you want them? Special finishes are available. Pics after.

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 I’m hearing some high distortion like scratching cracking on one of the tweeter on  right 
So swapped them around  and the distortion still there on Right 
Both tweeters work fine on left 
So seems to me maybe the issue is crossover ?

FC34178A-391B-4DE1-8900-B5B40B32C837.jpeg

F7CAA531-3DB8-4D72-8BC9-B368AC6C5772.jpeg

Edited by LORDROOTMAN

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Sneak peak. Raw, naked and unfinished. Previously black lacquer from the factory. Only 5 more stages to go. 

 

Anyone have a special request on finish? These are going up for sale. Check them out in Garage.

 

 

2020-04-21 22.59.23.jpg

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Any links to buy dynamat will be appreciated 

I can’t believe the bass in CF4 after Bob Crites rebuild the crossover compared with KLF 30 

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1 hour ago, LORDROOTMAN said:

Any links to buy dynamat will be appreciated 

I can’t believe the bass in CF4 after Bob Crites rebuild the crossover compared with KLF 30 

What did the crossover rebuild cost you? Caps only or full boards? 

 

For the dynamat, see if you can get some scraps of Bituthene or Ice and water shield for free from a friend or look around a surplus store. Warning, high VOC with this route.

 

Here is another low price alternative that will provide enough for many projects to come.

 

https://smile.amazon.com/stores/node/12073767011?_encoding=UTF8&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=Noico Solutions&ref_=bl_dp_s_web_12073767011

 

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On 4/28/2020 at 4:14 PM, 314carpenter said:

What did the crossover rebuild cost you? Caps only or full boards? 

 

For the dynamat, see if you can get some scraps of Bituthene or Ice and water shield for free from a friend or look around a surplus store. Warning, high VOC with this route.

 

Here is another low price alternative that will provide enough for many projects to come.

 

https://smile.amazon.com/stores/node/12073767011?_encoding=UTF8&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=Noico Solutions&ref_=bl_dp_s_web_12073767011

 

Yes he rebuild them with high quality parts 

he charge $160+$15 shipping back to you 

9B1D493D-57DD-4892-BA0E-8265DEDE27C7.jpeg

508421B0-317F-4540-AB5D-2A21436A0C43.jpeg

Edited by LORDROOTMAN
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New owner of CF3's version 3 it looks like SN# 279590115 and 279590110. From the pic included, 110 has a rattle on the back when the bass hits. I know, from reading this is common it seems. When I put the smallest pressure on the back panel it stops. My other speaker is fine, but how do I get the back panel off? Or is everything accessed through the woofer holes? I know the proper way is to install bracing but just wondering if there is something smaller that would work since it takes such as light pressure to make it stop on that one box.

Love these things,, and heavy.

 

 

CF_2.jpg

CF3_1.jpg

CF_4.jpg

CF_3.jpg

Edited by jhouse55
Picture size was off

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The back panel is loose, nothing to do with bracing. Although it would never hurt as long as it is not half of a lumberyard put in there. You just need to re-glue/seal the cabinets (all joints) with something like Gorilla original glue. Clean up as much as you can of the old glue and mist the joint with water before you apply the glue. And yes you gain access to the inside with the drivers removed. Cograts

 

 

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@Alexander  Thanks for the quick reply. So if I take the drivers out, I should be able to see that loose area from inside when looking at the Glue joint on the back panel? Would this tightbond glue work? 

6FDADD66-7067-4036-BA51-2BE3166B84D6.jpeg

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On 4/28/2020 at 3:32 PM, LORDROOTMAN said:

Any links to buy dynamat will be appreciated 

I can’t believe the bass in CF4 after Bob Crites rebuild the crossover compared with KLF 30 

amazing

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9 hours ago, jhouse55 said:

@Alexander  Thanks for the quick reply. So if I take the drivers out, I should be able to see that loose area from inside when looking at the Glue joint on the back panel? Would this tightbond glue work? 

6FDADD66-7067-4036-BA51-2BE3166B84D6.jpeg

 

 

Others have commented on using that and may chime in. I had only used the Gorilla stuff my self with great success. The Gorilla original glue expands ~3 times it's size so it fills in nooks & crannies. You really should re-do all seams and not just the loose area while you are there because if one panel joint can fail so can others.

 

 

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I know it takes some time, but please take the time to read the entire thread.  The answers you seek are in there.

 

To get access to the back, remove the drivers from the front.  You will find six screws holding the front motorboard on.  Pop off the plugs and use a long Phillips head screwdriver to get in there.  The screws are long but they'll come right out.

 

The pic on the right shows the extra brace I put in.  It has larger blocks than the OEM braces.

 

post-58280-0-54060000-1431220692_thumb.jpgpost-58280-0-77320000-1431264251_thumb.jpg

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1 hour ago, wvu80 said:

I know it takes some time, but please take the time to read the entire thread.  The answers you seek are in there.

 

 

Excellent point!

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X2 on the gorilla glue. its much stronger for this sort of thing than standard titebond.  titebond is good for general woodworking & parts that get clamped together, but for fixing a loose board that wont be fully removed cleaned up & clamped back together the GG is the best choice.  & there is nothing wrong with adding bracing if you want but IMO its not needed, these epic cabinets are (usually) built better than the KG & KLF cabinets & is rare to have them come loose. for now just fix the rear board to stop the vibrations & see how you like them.  can always add bracing later if you feel the need.  

 

read the instructions on the bottle but basically you clean up as much of the old glue as possible concentrating on the areas that are loose or the entire back board seam.  spray a small amount of water directly on the seam & wipe off any excess, then put down a thin bead of the GG but make sure it covers the seam completely with the speaker on its back so gravity helps the glue flow into the seam.  thats all you do, the glue will expand in about 15-30 minutes & 80% harden in 2hours,  let it sit overnight & put the drivers back in & the vibration will be gone forever!  i've done this 5 or 6 times on KG series & other brands of speakers & subs with loose cabinets & the GG works the perfect & is only $5/bottle.   

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38 minutes ago, jhouse55 said:

Looks like I'm getting GG at lunch!

 

The Titebond II (yellow) will work fine and gives you more time to line things up.  I use it in all my DIY speaker projects and I used it with my CF-4.  The two basic wood glues are white (inside) and yellow (inside/outside).  FYI ALL the glues mentioned are stronger than the wood to which they are bonding.

 

You guys are talking about the expensive Polyurethane Gorilla Glue, the brown expanding type.  $20 for an 18 oz bottle.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gorilla-Original-18-fl-oz-Polyurethane-Brown-Multipurpose-Adhesive/1101533

 

 

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1 hour ago, wvu80 said:

 

The Titebond II (yellow) will work fine and gives you more time to line things up.  I use it in all my DIY speaker projects and I used it with my CF-4.  The two basic wood glues are white (inside) and yellow (inside/outside).  FYI ALL the glues mentioned are stronger than the wood to which they are bonding.

 

You guys are talking about the expensive Polyurethane Gorilla Glue, the brown expanding type.  $20 for an 18 oz bottle.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gorilla-Original-18-fl-oz-Polyurethane-Brown-Multipurpose-Adhesive/1101533

 

 

yellow wood glue and white wood glue are both the same type of adhesive both are PVA glues  one just a variant of the other to achieve different characteristics so is book binding cement that's just another PVA (poly vinyl acetate) variant.

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2 hours ago, wvu80 said:

 

The Titebond II (yellow) will work fine and gives you more time to line things up.  I use it in all my DIY speaker projects and I used it with my CF-4.  The two basic wood glues are white (inside) and yellow (inside/outside).  FYI ALL the glues mentioned are stronger than the wood to which they are bonding.

 

You guys are talking about the expensive Polyurethane Gorilla Glue, the brown expanding type.  $20 for an 18 oz bottle.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gorilla-Original-18-fl-oz-Polyurethane-Brown-Multipurpose-Adhesive/1101533

 

 

 

there is no lining things up if you arent removing the entire panel.  in most cases you dont need to remove the panel & reglue the whole thing, just remove any excess glue from the rear seam & put a bead of GG down per the instructions, it will bond the 2 pieces of wood together & expand to get into the seam some.  

 

nope, just the common "original" type, a 4oz bottle will do 10+ speaker seams. can buy it at all home goods stores or even walmart. 

 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gorilla-4-Oz-Original-Glue/197348893 

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17 minutes ago, EpicKlipschFan said:

nope, just the common "original" type, a 4oz bottle will do 10+ speaker seams. can buy it at all home goods stores or even walmart. 

 

My only point is that there are three basic kinds of glue we commonly use on wood enclosures:  white glue, yellow glue and polyurethane.  In sealing an enclosure like the CF-4, any of these will work.  The only advantage I've seen to the poly glue is if you are going for an air-tight seal,t hen the expanding properties can be of some use.  But I assure you if you use each of the other wood glues, they will flow into any fissures and seal it just as tight.

 

My preference is for the yellow glue like Titebond II because it is the most viscous of yellow/white and gives me more time to work with my project if I screw up.

 

Hah!  Not "if", but "when."  🤣

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