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3 minutes ago, Maximus89 said:

Just got home with my new v.1 CF4s in beautiful cherry! Anyone got any tips to apply some kind of oil with #0000 steel wool that'll really make the speaker pop while covering small scratches?


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Congrats! If I had to pick, that'd be the color. Old English lemon oil is a good place to start. Pics when you can, please!

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Congrats! If I had to pick, that'd be the color. Old English lemon oil is a good place to start. Pics when you can, please!
I love only walnut and I've never found any vintage klipch in walnut. Not complaining. The cherry and oak they do on today's new speakers are gorgeous veneer. The vintage red cherry with barely any wood grain and patterns isn't my that attractive to me but its all about the sound in the end!

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1 hour ago, Micklipsch said:

Isn't having the K30-KN rebuilt to spec, such as reworking the voice coil an option? That way the originality and look is preserved. 

yeah , if the cone is intact    -

 

you have to remove the dust cap -  unsolder the wires - extract the voice coil in 1 piece without damaging the cone or spider ---then find a voice coil that matches , and do the reverse work -

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I'm thinking Danish oil since I've used it before but not sure if it does anything over a previous finish. I know of Howard's restore a finish but I wanted something to make the cherry grain really pop in the light.

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2 hours ago, Maximus89 said:

Just got home with my new v.1 CF4s in beautiful cherry! Anyone got any tips to apply some kind of oil with #0000 steel wool that'll really make the speaker pop while covering small scratches?


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Best lazy crowd "I don't want to know too much so just give me an answer", answer... buy a can of Watco.

 

I have a 300 page book dedicated to wood finishing. There are 100 answers to your question. Depends on what you want to do. You can't make the wood do anything that isn't already there, but you can, in some cases, make it appear to have changed, or you can sometimes make it disappear. Cherry isn't going to "pop" much. With cherry veneer, you are most likely to do your best with as clear of a finish as possible. Now if decide what you want is more protection, again, 100 more answers to how to accomplish that. Remember that the sole purpose of a wood finish is to protect the wood. Some finishes have the effect of slightly altering the look of the wood. Stain by itself is not a protectant, but it will apply color. Paint is a cover and it will protect. UV damages all finishes and some finishes can include UV protectant. UV protectant is expensive, if you paid just a little for it you got just a little UV additive.

 

Order of protection level for oil finishes are as follows

oil/thinner

oil/wax

oil/thinner/varnish

shellac

lacquer

varnish/oil

 

Differences in oil finishes my be the type of oil used, the type of thinner used, or the type of varnish used within each product. Additives and driers are also a variable. Water finishes have the advantage of drying clearer, non yellowing, drying faster, but do require more coats and will have a slightly less protection level than their oil counterparts. There are a huge list of brands and products to avoid. That is a good thing. It is easier that way to find a product on the shelf that you can settle in with.

 

 

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32 minutes ago, Maximus89 said:

I'm thinking Danish oil since I've used it before but not sure if it does anything over a previous finish. I know of Howard's restore a finish but I wanted something to make the cherry grain really pop in the light.

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Oil over oil. What can go wrong? Howard's is a good product, but not for your application. Totally different product and use, unless you have a lacquer finish. You don't.

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I appreciate the lengthy and detailed post. What I think ill do is apply Danish oil with #0000 steel wool. Maybe 2 applications? Wipe off all excess oil and wait for a few days and then apply a wax finish.

Howard's restore a finish is an option. Will it work before or after Danish oil?

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Oil over oil. What can go wrong? Howard's is a good product, but not for your application. Totally different product and use, unless you have a lacquer finish. You don't.

So Danish oil followed by Howard's feed n wax and buffer and im good to go! Thanks! I'm asking myself how important it is to get them installed and playing music because I wonder how much effort I have in me to sand off the finish and get it nice and clean and raw veneer and just apply a satin laquer finish for a more natural look. I know cherry darkens over time so I probably wouldn't get what I'd expect like the new klipsch cherry veneer options.

 

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32 minutes ago, Maximus89 said:

I appreciate the lengthy and detailed post. What I think ill do is apply Danish oil with #0000 steel wool. Maybe 2 applications? Wipe off all excess oil and wait for a few days and then apply a wax finish.

Howard's restore a finish is an option. Will it work before or after Danish oil?

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Howard's Restore a finish is not a finish and it is NOT an option for you. Forget about it. Howard's Feed N' Wax is oil and beeswax and has very little added protection. It will also attract dust and require repeated applications. I found Watco rejuvenating oil to be darkening, it is kind of reddish brown, all be it without the stain added to the rest of their line. Watco rejuvenating oil is not Danish oil because it does not contain varnish. The good thing about oil and wax is you can remove it without abrasives or strippers. The bad thing about Danish oil is that it has varnish which is hardening and sealing which with enough coats can be much more difficult to remove. Another point to be made here is stain will not penetrate a sealed surface.

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Howard's Restore a finish is not a finish and it is NOT an option for you. Forget about it. Howard's Feed N' Wax is oil and beeswax and has very little added protection. It will also attract dust and require repeated applications. I found Watco rejuvenating oil to be darkening, it is kind of reddish brown, all be it without the stain added to the rest of their line. Watco rejuvenating oil is not Danish oil because it does not contain varnish. The good thing about oil and wax is you can remove it without abrasives or strippers. The bad thing about Danish oil is that it has varnish which is hardening and sealing which with enough coats can be much more difficult to remove. Another point to be made here is stain will not penetrate a sealed surface.
In that case. The oil in Danish oil will feed the wood but the stain will stay on top for me to wipe off no? Repeated applications of Danish oil gives protection?
My local home depot doesn't have much outside of Howard's and watco stuff. Theres a rockler 45 min away that has more options but im not in the mood. Dont know where else

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15 minutes ago, Maximus89 said:

In that case. The oil in Danish oil will feed the wood but the stain will stay on top for me to wipe off no? Repeated applications of Danish oil gives protection?
My local home depot doesn't have much outside of Howard's and watco stuff. Theres a rockler 45 min away that has more options but im not in the mood. Dont know where else

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Yes. Yes. Stay out of HD. Make the drive. I suggest trying Woodcraft.

https://www.woodcraft.com/store_locations?address=houston+&button=search

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