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1 hour ago, bpplaysguitar said:

Can anyone PM me to help with decoding a sn? Fall of 95 was the switch to v2?

 

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54 minutes ago, bpplaysguitar said:

Can anyone PM me to help with decoding a sn? Fall of 95 was the switch to v2?

Short of someone like @Chief boneheadconfirming what exactly transpired at Klipsch during those three years, there's no widely accepted--at least not in my opinion--V1, 2, or 3 verification based solely on date--it's empirical at best. 

I've read of a S/N matching V1 set where one contained monster wiring, the other, colored, while both having the long port tubes and most likely same grey horns. I personally just encountered a pair with a February '95 build date which contained the monster wire, long ports, and grey horns. In fact this set of seemingly V1s had the same build date (04159xxx) as a pair of local CF4s, yet the latter pair has the shorter port tubes. The only wild thing I could think of in these cases were that Klipsch had miscellaneous V1 stuff laying around after switching versions and threw together some V1s on the same assembly line, so to speak, with the V2s and so on. Might be a stretch, but who the hell knows.

 

At this point, my advice would be to simply make a checklist. Monster wire, long port tubes, grey horn? V1. Monster wire, short port tubes, black horn? V2. Colored wire, short port tubes, black horn? V3 (I guess? Remember the one V1 with colored wire?) All while paying loose credence to the actual S/N. 

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Agreed.  That paper does not seem accurate to me.  Plenty of late 94's and some early 95's that appear to still be version 1's.  

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On 2/8/2021 at 5:27 PM, Micklipsch said:

Thanks very much for this. Exactly the info I was looking for, and then some^^

You were not informed correctly-

 

-klipsch has only 1 Klipsch Repair Center that can repair crossovers or sell  klipsch OEM Capacitors ---and  @Chief bonehead  ,  designated  @JEM Performance  , the  pricing is on par with  lower quality aftermarket capacitors --

 

Whether Diaphragms for klipsch drivers ( midrange and tweeters )   or  Capacitors for crossovers  , or Woofers  , the klipsch  Genuine Parts are the Highest Quality parts for your Klipsch  speakers -

 

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Now that this thread is getting more attention and deservedly so, a few questions come to mind and might be of interest, as they are to me. 

For those who have or have had the CF3's & CF4's. 

What differences have you noticed between the two models, sound wise? 

Do the 4's have a more noticeable bass punch with its 12" drivers? 

I have read of the 4's being a bit more chesty, as far as vocals are concerned. True or false?

The 4's are supposed to have a higher sensitivity, by 2 points.  noticed or not?

Observations welcomed.

 

  

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@Shiva That's a great question - I've wondered the same thing. I'm quite content with my CF3's but I've never heard CF4's to compare. 

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2 hours ago, Shiva said:

Now that this thread is getting more attention and deservedly so, a few questions come to mind and might be of interest, as they are to me. 

For those who have or have had the CF3's & CF4's. 

What differences have you noticed between the two models, sound wise? 

Do the 4's have a more noticeable bass punch with its 12" drivers? 

I have read of the 4's being a bit more chesty, as far as vocals are concerned. True or false?

The 4's are supposed to have a higher sensitivity, by 2 points.  noticed or not?

Observations welcomed.

 

  

I can tell you that two twelve inch woofers will push approximately the same amount of air as 1 1/2 fifteen inch woofers. Dual 12" will usually cross a little lower than dual 10's do so they should sound close but I would expect a bit more body to the sound.Another good reason for selecting the smallest speaker which will provide you with your desired output levels and then leave the bottom end to multiple subs. My main speakers have a 3.25" woofer cone with a 1.5" tweeter in the middle. You would be shocked by how low and how loud they can play. Stage and image is excellent. It takes a fair amount of work to make a speaker this small be able to do what it does but it can be achieved (I am in a 14x30 ft. room with a kitchen and a hall off the main room volume).

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So that issue with that right speaker on my new to me CF-4 v.1, it's actually a baffle issue. I literally just found it. Was able to get some time to play some bass heavy music(been using the sub below 80hz after initial set up).  The rear baffle at the center behind the tweeter area is flexing a lot and chuffing/air leak. The left slightly moves as well, but the right speaker clearly isn't suppose to move like that and it's causing the sound that was bothering me.  
Was the rear baffle glued on? It's the front baffle that's removable via screws right? How do i remove the rear baffle to glue with TiteBond II  and clamp it correctly? Assuming i have to remove the entire rear baffle and not just squeeze some glue inside the area and clamp as the rest of the baffle seems fine.  
 

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2 hours ago, Micklipsch said:

So,@bpplaysguitar, did you score these CF4s in Tinley Park?

 

Indeed. Did you see those on Facebook too?! I don't think the seller is on here. I woke up, saw that I missed a set right near me overnight (sold in hours), checked marketplace since I was on there, was shocked to find those and was on a 12 hour round trip adventure within a couple hours. 

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25 minutes ago, bpplaysguitar said:

 

Indeed. Did you see those on Facebook too?! I don't think the seller is on here. I woke up, saw that I missed a set right near me overnight (sold in hours), checked marketplace since I was on there, was shocked to find those and was on a 12 hour round trip adventure within a couple hours. 

do a search and request on HiFi Shark and get immediate notification of on line for sale posts, don't miss another opportunity.

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1 hour ago, bpplaysguitar said:

 

Indeed. Did you see those on Facebook too?! I don't think the seller is on here. I woke up, saw that I missed a set right near me overnight (sold in hours), checked marketplace since I was on there, was shocked to find those and was on a 12 hour round trip adventure within a couple hours. 

Yep. Did they turn out to have 5in port tubes?

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I honestly haven't even looked that hard yet because I still have a few hours of driving left. I just knew they weren't version 3 and I wanted them whether they were 1 or 2.

Edited by bpplaysguitar
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2.5 inch port tube, which I assumed was likely based on a 1995 sn. So revision 2. But I was happy to find either revision 1 or 2 in such great shape. I'll see how they sound pretty soon here. 

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5 hours ago, bpplaysguitar said:

2.5 inch port tube, which I assumed was likely based on a 1995 sn. So revision 2. But I was happy to find either revision 1 or 2 in such great shape. I'll see how they sound pretty soon here. 

Cool. Let us know which type of wire you have inside when you have a chance, if you don’t mind. It helps fill in the blanks on version theory. Thanks and congrats! Pics are in order!

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Man, these Epics are flying off the shelves these days. 👍  

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6 minutes ago, Shiva said:

Man, these Epics are flying off the shelves these days. 👍  

 

It might be time to do a re-issue.

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18 hours ago, Maximus89 said:

So that issue with that right speaker on my new to me CF-4 v.1, it's actually a baffle issue. I literally just found it. Was able to get some time to play some bass heavy music(been using the sub below 80hz after initial set up).  The rear baffle at the center behind the tweeter area is flexing a lot and chuffing/air leak. The left slightly moves as well, but the right speaker clearly isn't suppose to move like that and it's causing the sound that was bothering me.  
Was the rear baffle glued on? It's the front baffle that's removable via screws right? How do i remove the rear baffle to glue with TiteBond II  and clamp it correctly? Assuming i have to remove the entire rear baffle and not just squeeze some glue inside the area and clamp as the rest of the baffle seems fine.  
 

Dang, now you know. These guys probably know the answers.

Someone?

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