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3 minutes ago, Maximus89 said:

I just realized you added that glue block for the panel to sit into, is that really necessary? How does the panel sit in the cabinet originally?

 

The panel basically sits on that tiny lip all the way around so I basically gave it a lot larger glue area along with being able to screw it down, I didn't have to leave it clamped for a day.  The original glue area is not that much.

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The panel basically sits on that tiny lip all the way around so I basically gave it a lot larger glue area along with being able to screw it down, I didn't have to leave it clamped for a day.  The original glue area is not that much.
Oh, understood. Makes sense. Im not skilled like that. So you put a block and glued and clamped to the small glue area that already exists and then you screwed it in from the side-into the existing glue area for extra support?

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Sorry, I got confused from the screws going inside to the back, since I figured the existing glue block was too small and the added block wouldn't sit flush with it? Idk I guess I gotta open it up and take a look when I get a chance. Thanks for giving me a better look though. Its always daunting opening up these massive speakers.

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On 9/26/2021 at 10:11 AM, Maximus89 said:

Does the back panel pop off with a rubber mallet? My CF4 back panels are loose and haven't had a chance to go in and reglue and brace. Easy job?

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On one of the CF4's the back was rattling when hit with heavy bass. I did not remove the backs, but i did pry them apart wide enough to get some clear gorilla glue down in the joint and then clamp it while the glue hardened. Also, I ran a fillet of Gorilla glue around the inside of each side with the back to help solidify things.

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On one of the CF4's the back was rattling when hit with heavy bass. I did not remove the backs, but i did pry them apart wide enough to get some clear gorilla glue down in the joint and then clamp it while the glue hardened. Also, I ran a fillet of Gorilla glue around the inside of each side with the back to help solidify things.
That sounds like an easier solution especially if I decide on adding some bracing anyway if im up for the job

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Might need to change out the compression drivers on the CF2's, any thoughts?
I'm leaning towards the PSD:2013 Eminence, maybe the Peavey neo HERE.  I kinda have a 'thing' for Titanium after doing the tweeters in the KG2.5's with Bob Crites' Ti diaphragms.
Thanks!

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1 hour ago, DirtyErnie said:

Might need to change out the compression drivers on the CF2's, any thoughts?
I'm leaning towards the PSD:2013 Eminence, maybe the Peavey neo HERE.  I kinda have a 'thing' for Titanium after doing the tweeters in the KG2.5's with Bob Crites' Ti diaphragms.
Thanks!

 

I have a pair of RX22's I'd sell that are sitting idle if interested.  They aren't the "N" models, though.  Still have titanium diaphragms.

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  • 1 month later...

I bought a pair of CF3’s at an estate sale over a year ago and just unboxed them last week. Good new all the speakers work, bad news all the hot melt glue is coming loose. Looks like a good winter project! I bought my first Forte 2 new and still have them. Thanks for all the advice!

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You can remove a back by heating it from the inside with a heat gun. I used some plastic wedge shape tile spacers to slowly separate the back from the cabinet.
Thanks for the tip. I realllly should get on it once the clamps went on to the speakers I stopped caring how they look as long as the low end is nice and tight. I think I'm waiting for the desire and funds to open up for bracing interior, recap, higher quality internal wire, high quality banana connectors and then new veneer and paint the front baffle. Lots of work

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