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Klipsch Epic Owners Group


kapsnb01

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello,

 

there are Epic CF-4 for sale but it is quite a drive. The serial number is: 222594466 

 

So I guess they could be series 2 or 3? I would buy them if they were 2 because I am using Subs anyway.

 

Is there a way the seller can find out without disassembling the speaker?

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38 minutes ago, EpicKlipsch said:

Hello,

 

there are Epic CF-4 for sale but it is quite a drive. The serial number is: 222594466 

 

So I guess they could be series 2 or 3? I would buy them if they were 2 because I am using Subs anyway.

 

Is there a way the seller can find out without disassembling the speaker?

I would say with that serial #, that they are version 2's. The 1st and 2nd series have grey drivers and grey horns. The 3rd series have black drivers and a black horn.    

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Though a bit dark, I do see a grey cast to the drivers. Version 2's.    Ask the seller to measure the depth of the ports just for more info. If the price is right and you want them, I say, go get em. 

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  • 4 weeks later...
15 hours ago, krell101 said:

How do you remove the front panel ?  
i saw this picture on this thread and I don’t see any screws in front .

 

Pull the 6 rubber cups where the speaker grills attach and the screws are behind those.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Do yall think 7watts to 25 watts solid state is enough for a CF-4?

I love my vintage Accuphase gear, but it all gets very hot in my small room. Looking to get a barely warm to the touch small amp that has a warm or romantic sound to it. Probably asking a lot since i know low watt class A amps run very hot. I think my p360 runs in class a to a certain point? Also my c280v preamp is class A and gets hot. My DC-91 gets warm on the vent, but i can live with that.

 

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I have tried quite a few low power amps with my CF3's.  I've had a 5 watt to 30 watt tube amps,  8 watt Class T amps. A couple of Topping T amps, spec'd at 50 watts at 4 ohms and 25 at 8ohms.  I have a Class D amp now from Nobsound that uses the TP3255 chip, that says 300 watts per side, but is nowhere near that.  They all sounded really nice on the Epics and of course the Class T and Class D amps stay cool to the touch.     

 

This is what I have now.  

 

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Power-Amplifier-Stereo-Desktop/dp/B08GQL6BJJ/ref=sr_1_31?crid=XOQA59DVM6JD&keywords=nobsound+tp3255&qid=1646689752&sprefix=nobsound+tp3255%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-31

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Here is what i am considering. http://sparkler-audio.com/portfolio/products_en.html

There's the little integrated 'Ether' with 7watts. Then there's a physically larger 25wpc stereo amp with volume control and 2 small 25wpc mono amps and a separate preamp offered. The CD and DAC are interesting and i might even want that Tuner just because of how beautiful it is. 

Kazutoshi Tsukahara used to work with 47 Laboratory. 

 

These are all very simple designs and i don't know how they will pair with the not so simple DC-91 dac which i plan to have extensive mods done at a later date. I've also found several preamps i have tried actually hold the DC-91 back and the dac ends up sounding far superior directly to an amp(the c280v matches well but runs too warm to hot and i don't need phono which is adding extra heat), but the DC-91 starts to reduce bits as you go lower in volume... and so an amp with volume directly to the DC-91 for only digital sources might be an option. The negative to that approach is no remote control which i have missed so much since i sold my SS Macs and the Sparkler Audio remotes are so retro and super cool looking.

 

I also can't tell you what Class amps they are? Seems something i would know before purchasing. 

 

I'm also considering a vintage Mcintosh MC250 w/ 50wpc. I have experience with ss Macs and they ran very cool to the touch. I haven't heard the vintage first solid state amps they built, but apparently they're great.

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