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These are the Type A I did, my first time building a crossover.

Also a close up on the horn.

 

Very cool.

 

If others want to try your crossover, where did you source the parts and how much?

 

Anything special to pay extra attention to?

 

I linked your thread on your project below.

 

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/160201-bc-dcm50-16ohm-or-8ohm-for-type-a-crossover/

Edited by Bubo
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May be I can post a picture of mine here. La scala bass bin 90 degree rotated to damp the side panel vibration by its own weight without using braces.

 

Personally, I think this is an interesting idea.  Especially for those with the two-piece LaScalas.

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These are the Type A I did, my first time building a crossover.

Also a close up on the horn.

Very cool.

If others want to try your crossover, where did you source the parts and how much?

Anything special to pay extra attention to?

I linked your thread on your project below.

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/160201-bc-dcm50-16ohm-or-8ohm-for-type-a-crossover/

I sourced the green russian K75-10 from ebay. They are a hybrid paper in oil capacitors surplus from cold-war military. Very affordable. But they are HUGE! And they dont have the lead wires on two ends. The outer shells are magnetic metal if this means bad to you.

Alternatively you may use the squarish KBG-mb pio caps. Equally cheap and huge. These are true paper in oil.

If you do not like the idea of usng Vintage parts from Russia military, then the Obbligsto oil caps are nice enough. Theysound very organic.

But one day I may try something like Jupiter paper in wax or Duelund RS series.

No, not the Duelund CAST pio, unnless I become insane enough. The russian oilers are good enough to give me goosebumps.

But I do have one question: my Le Cleac'h mid horn has a cut off frequency at around 340hz, is this low enough to use the Type A crossover in La Scala?

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I am using the original K55-M that came with my speakers for a driver and right now I am using a simple 1st order crossover. I have a 3636 autotransformer DHA2 version crossover with the ability to change attenuation that is very nice too but the simple 1st order has a better sound stage. I just dampened the top protruding lip of the 511B with some plumbers putty. I have not actually heard ringing from the stock horn or Altec but did it just to do. Mine is still a 3 way with an after market tweeter. The stock tweeter will be destroyed with a 1st order crossover. I never had any problem with the sound of the original mid but in horns bigger is better and the 511B does have better dispersion.

The DHA2 is a great crossover! Very nice, and i dropped my mids down a little bit, using the k400 horn and an Eminence APT150 tweeter on a seperate baffle set at the back of the cabinet for time alignment. Spooky imaging! Refurbing another pair now and making a few changes.

Bruce

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Some Crossover Discussions LaScala

 

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/142793-curious-about-dha2-crossovers/

 

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/148350-la-scala-crossover-upgrade-options/

 

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/135968-what-crossover-for-eliptrac-khorns-pics/

 

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/126480-aa-network-modification-battery-biased-crossover-network/

 

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/118388-are-the-diodes-in-aa-crossovers-necessary/

 

"Posted 21 June 2010 - 04:16 AM

The K-77 was good for about 2 watts. When EV started using copper-beryllium flat leads on the diaphragms, that power rating became about 5 watts. The zener diodes start to conduct to protect the tweeter at about 2 watts. PWK in one of the DFH papers said it was not high power that blows them, but instead usually transients took them out. The zeners act very quickly to protect the tweeter. Down side is that they are pretty expensive.

The CT125s are good for 45 watts, so the diodes (rated at 20 watts) would blow before the tweeter.

Bob Crites"

 

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/144492-crossover-roadshow/

 

 

 

KLIPSCH DHA2 CROSSOVER.jpg

 

Naked_Battery_Biased_AA_network.jpg

 

Battery Biased AA.jpg

Edited by Bubo

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Don't build the battery biased network shown directly above. It's a phantom circuit that doesn't do anything -- we proved this in my crossover roadshow thread last year. Instead, build the JBL version that actually works. Just do a search on "charge coupled crossover".

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Don't build the battery biased network shown directly above. It's a phantom circuit that doesn't do anything -- we proved this in my crossover roadshow thread last year. Instead, build the JBL version that actually works. Just do a search on "charge coupled crossover".

Deag, what is the benefit sonically of a battery bias network? Is there a battery biased Type A?

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Some links on charge coupled crossovers, apparently JBL uses them in the Everest.

 

http://www.enjoythemusic.com/diy/0911/charge_coupled_crossovers.htm

 

http://theartofsound.net/forum/archive/index.php/t-9700.html

 

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/125994-using-batteries-bias-crossovers-into-class-how-does-work.html

 

 

JBL Everest Manual and Technical Overview

 

Link to tech doc PDF, this SW is blocking me from uploading it since the PDF is larger than 2 MB

 

http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Technical%20Sheet/Everest%20DD66000%20ts.pdf

Owners Manual - Project Everest DD66000 (English).pdf

Edited by Bubo

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http://www.enjoythemusic.com/diy/0911/charge_coupled_crossovers.htm

You can also Google JBL and Battery Bias - no shortage of images and links.

Vendersteen and a couple of other companies that I can't remember make use of the circuit as well.

Ignore detractors. It works. It's not a jaw dropping difference, but noticeable nonetheless. Anything that quiets the background is a big positive in my book. When you add all of the incremental improvements together, well, it's a nice surprise.

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On a separate subject. Not sure if this has been discussed so I ask here anyway.

Anyone added a 45 degree reflector inside the right angle corner of the La Scala bass, two per channel? These could be made from pieces of solid wood, and then attach to the corner by blutack.

But the point is: is this producing any audible benefit?

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Guest David H

I have installed the reflectors on 2 occasions. As far as I can tell it is inaudible, however there is a measurable

change.

 

Installing side wall bracing is audible.

 

Dave

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On a separate subject. Not sure if this has been discussed so I ask here anyway.

Anyone added a 45 degree reflector inside the right angle corner of the La Scala bass, two per channel? These could be made from pieces of solid wood, and then attach to the corner by blutack.

But the point is: is this producing any audible benefit?

 

Are posts 43 and 44 above the reflectors?

 

If yes, Moray says no real difference.

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Guest David H
from what I understand those corner reflectors do not help at all rather they are a negative in the LaScala but I have no personal experience with them.

 

If the reflectors are too large it will have a negative effect, otherwise will improve the response in the upper bass region. This is typically

inaudible because of the 400hz crossover.

 

Dave

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Regarding reflectors

I had a horn similar to LS Kuben.jpg

Using a Beyma G320 driver adding corner reflectors did not to much in the 250-500 Hz range

KubenBeymacornerBlue.png

 

Adding a reflector at the horn split did nothing at all

KubenBeymaBisectBlue.png

 

The effect of having both a splitter and corner reflectors was less than corner relectors alone!

KubenBeymabisectCornerBlue.png

 

Using an other driver adding splitter did do a difference

KubenFaneBisectBlue.png

 

And having both splitter and corner reflectors added som dB from 250 to 800 Hz.

KubenFaneBisCornerBlue.png

 

These findings suggest that adding corner reflectors does not mean that you can take frequency response improvements for granted. At the time I did not have equipment to measure time domain response, now I would have done that if I had the horns still in my possesion.

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Boar,

 

Thanks for posting the graphs.

 

Spec sheet for driver

http://www.beyma.de/fileadmin/seiten/download/pdf/Oldies/12G320.pdf

 

The green trace is your baseline and the blue line is the change after the mods.

 

It appears that your last graph shows a 2-3db improvement with splitter and corner reflectors?

 

For the truly dim, like me, can you draw in and label your modifications on a copy of your above magazine page showing the location of the splitter and corner reflectors on the diagrams and re-post the page into your write-up?

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