Jump to content

Electric Projector Screens...


usmcavenger

Recommended Posts

Also when selecting a screen I had to decide whether I was going with 16:9 or 2.35:1 aspect ratio. Since at the time we did not have cable TV, and just about all of our content or Blu-ray movies, most of those movies are in the water 2.35:1 aspect ratio so I made the most sense for me to build my theater using a send a scope or 2.35:1 screen. Since at the time we did not have cable TV, and just about all of our content or Blu-ray movies, most of those movies are in the water 2.35:1 aspect ratio so I made the most sense for me to build my theater using a send a scope or 2.35:1 screen. Looking back I absolutely made the right decision in going with the wider screen. For somebody that watches a lot of football like wake junkie, it makes a lot of sense for him to have a 16:9 screen because those are shot in that format. I just like having the really wide screen because I wanted to replicate as best I could the experience that you get at the theater. I think it's safe to say with my current set up I really have no desire to go to the movie theaters anymore LOL

Lol I totally forgot to mention the aspect ratio. Surprised I did thats a biggie.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like your build is similar to what we just completed. My thread is here for reference: https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/158099-fds-dolby-atmos-ht-design-build-thread/page-3

Our Elite motorized screen is not tensioned and you can see that it's not completely flat, but it was only $250 on Amazon. I may upgrade in the future, but for now it's good enough.

Edit: I will add that I've seen large-scale tensioned motorized screens in person, and they were completely flat.

Yea my screen is as flat as a board. Seymour material is really nice. Should be for what they cost I guess. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

In my case, our room is not a dedicated home theater. We're planning to mount a flat screen tv on the wall for regular tv watching

 

 

Same here, if I had a dedicated room I would have gone with a fixed screen and saved some cash.

 

These are cool but very pricey:

 

 

Yea like in your case your screen is in the living room. Being able to bring it up is a big + in that type of set up ( + you have the panel tv behind it you still use)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Holy crap man! I'm just now checking this thread for the first time today, assuming there wouldn't be very many, if any, new posts, but man was I wrong. haha. Thanks for all your suggestions! Ok, not even sure where to begin. lol. For the room itself, the entry door is centered on the room. When you open the door there is a window centered on the opposite wall. That wall is 19ft in length. Both the left and right walls are 14ft in length but if you look closely at the very first picture posted in this thread, you'll see that at about 5.5ft, the wall slants 45 degrees and meets up with the ceiling. My original idea was to place a retractable screen in front of the window so that when the screen isn't in use, we could still see outside and what not. But the only problem with locating the screen on that side is that it only leaves me 14ft of space before the door. So if I were to put a couch or something up there, there'd be almost no room to get around the couch when entering the room. I hope I'm easily explaining this to you all. I should just record a quick video and post a link to it. I may do that in the near future. Anyways...

 

Because of the tight fit I'm now thinking about relocating the screen to the left wall where the slanted part of the ceiling is. Being that it's slanted, the screen would actually have to stick out away from the wall by an estimated 2-2.5ft. I haven't measured it yet so I'm not 100% sure on what the distance would be. So that's another reason why I think a retractable screen would work to my benefit. Just to make it easier to get behind it and create less of a chance of snagging the screen and tearing it or something when I am behind it for whatever reason. 

 

As far as the aspect ratio goes, I have no idea what I'd want. lol. I love watching football (GO BUCKEYES) and I love movies. Both are shot in different aspect ratios so as of now I'm completely torn. I also may entertain an acoustic fabric or whatever it's called just incase I need to locate the center channel behind the screen. I hope I don't have to though because I love looking at that massive center channel! 

 

Sometime this weekend I'll make it a point to head back over to the house and try and take a few more photos of the room as it get's sheet rocked. Oh yea, and if I do use the left wall as the location for my screen instead of in front of the window, I can turn the giant walk-in closet on the opposite end of the room into a bar later down the road. Anyways, I'm just thinking out loud right now. Alright, thanks again for all the info and tips you guys have given me. This is a decision that'll most likely take a few weeks to decide on. I have another 6 weeks until my house will be ready to close on! I can't wait!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sometime this weekend I'll make it a point to head back over to the house and try and take a few more photos of the room as it get's sheet rocked.

 

This might be a good time to consider where you can make your wiring runs behind the wall before the sheet rock gets installed.  Best to ask the other home theater guys about this for some good advice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The best screen I've ever seen is the one we bought: Seymour electric retractable Acoustically Transparent screen. 

  • Ours is 2.35:1 aspect ratio, which goes along with the what filmmakers expect; when they select 2.35:1 (or near to that ratio), they expect the screen to be physically wider than the 1.85:1 shape, i.e., of greater area than 1.85:1, not a smaller ribbon shaped strip across a 1.85:1 shape.  This is called "common height" and is the way most commercial theaters are set up.  It is the film artist's larger canvas.  BTW, the larger area increases cortical arousal (according to Berlyne), which is part of the point of creating a panoramic image.  I have counted 10 aspect ratios, and they all look their best on a 2.35:1 screen, IMO.
  • Ours is 130" true width (not the cheating diagonal the industry tends to use), and we cannot see the texture of the screen -- ever!
  • By using an acoustically transparent screen, the center speaker can be put behind the screen, which makes for more convincing dialog positioning.
  • A Klipsch engineer tested a Seymour AT screen for a forum member (I think the forum member's name was Hendricks), and found it to be nearly acoustically transparent even in the very high frequencies (I think it was a dB or two down at the very top).  We use Audyssey with ours, and the center channel is just as flat as the R & L
  • Find Seymour online, and talk to them.  I think you will find them one of the most cooperative companies ever.  They answered all of our questions thoughtfully in several letters.
  • The Seymour AT screens are tensioned, at least ours is.
  • I think Seymour sells to online customers only, so you may not get an unbiased opinion at a store.

Good Luck!

Edited by garyrc
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the incredible amount of info on the Seymour screen's! I think that's the route I'll be taking then as I loved basically everything you said. Especially if it's been approved by Klipsch engineers! haha. Well I'll keep you guys updated with how the project goes. I ran smurf tube from the center of the ceiling where the projector will be mounted and ran it down the wall with the window on it. So it'll be located on the right wall when looking at the projector screen. Next I'll need to locate where I want the surrounds located and how I want them wired. I hope everyone's enjoying their weekends! Just two and a half hours till the Buckeyes kickoff!!!! Attached is a pic of the wall where the window is located. I wish I had a wider angled camera because looks like the room is really small but it's not. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just two and a half hours till the Buckeyes kickoff!!!!

 

I am in West Virginia, 2 hours from Columbus.  We have LOTS of Buckeye fans where I live on the OH/WV border, and I have family who attended there.

 

Ohio State will get a mid-season pre-season game aka Rutgers.  This will give OSU a chance to break in their new/old QB and right the ship.

 

Is Ohio State the most heavily criticized undefeated #1 team you've ever seen?  :blink:

Edited by wvu80
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hahaha I was so pissed when Rutger's finally got on the board with a minute left in the game. lol Yea it was a complete blowout but after a season of crappy play, the Buckeye's needed to win like that. Too bad it was to Rutgers. haha. I hate how pathetic their schedule is. I'm living in North Idaho where there's absolutely no Buckeye fans. Really sucks because I love College Football way more than the boring NFL and since all college teams in this area have notoriously sucked throughout the history of their programs, there's just no fans of College Football up here, let alone fans of Ohio State. 

 

Both of my parents are Ohio State Alumni's and my brother went there for a year but couldn't hack it. lol. Also, A.J. Hawk is my second cousin but sadly, I don't personally know him. I met him once when he originally committed to the Buckeye's many years ago at a family reunion. So I've grown up a Buckeye. Basically all of my relatives live in Lima, Toledo and Cleveland. Anyways, I hope with J.T. Barrett now at the helm, we can finally return to the high level of play we ended last years season with!

 

Go Bucks!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't own a screen of any type, but I was wondering what others have brought up, why have an electric screen?  There is no "wasted" space if you have a dedicated theater room. 

 

 

We have a retractable, electric screen because the room is also a library and music listening room.  Having a screen that rolls up protects it from people who might be milling around near it (e.g., at a party)..  Also we wanted to be able to zone out while listening to music without having a bright white rectangle looming in front of us.  There is an art object on the wall behind the screen.  The screen hangs from the ceiling about one foot out from the wall, fitting perfectly between two Khorns, with a modified Belle Klipsch center behind the screen, buried in a grille cloth covered wall (the back of the Belle sticks out into a "bump out).  The tweeters in the Belle and the Khorns are equidistant from the nose of the listener sitting in the center seat (although Audyssey would have taken care of that if we hadn't).  With the EQ provided by Audyssey, the Belle is not attenuated in the treble, even after the sound passes through the wall grille cloth, and the AT screen.  We tried running Audyssey both with the screen up and down, and decided to use the EQ with the screen down.  There is hardly any difference -- 1.5 dB, as I recall -- at 16 KHz.

 

Note: it did take three guys to hold the > 130" wide screen up to the ceiling while attaching it.  The extra two came back for a movie and refreshments, with guests, as their reward.

 

Some people put an ordinary HDTV monitor behind their screen so they can watch TV news and other program material that won't necessarily benefit from being blown up on a large screen, thus helping their projection lamp last longer.  Those doing that who are going to use an acoustically transparent screen might want to mount a small, inexpensive, BLACK blackout shade that comes down over the TV, to keep it from reflecting back through the AT screen.  Most AT screens have a black cloth to prevent that, but it, too, needs to be AT, so it is nothing like a blackout shade.  I have heard that some people have a problem with reflection if they are sitting at an angle complimentary to the projector, and the TV screen is highly reflective, like some of the older plasmas.

Edited by garyrc
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just got back from showing my wife what my plans were for the "bonus room" aka theater. She loved what my intensions are so I'll be sure to keep you all in the loop as far as the build goes. I woulda taken a few more pictures tonight but it was too dark for any good photos to come out. I did however find a picture of the floor plans I'd taken a few weeks ago so hopefully this will give you guys a better idea of what I'm working with. The vertical dotted lines on the right side of the room indicates where the ceiling slants at a 45 degree angle to meet the wall. This is where I plan on locating my screen. I'm thinking of something between 130-150in with the RF-7 II's flanking the sides. 

 

I'm still leaning towards the tensioned retractable screens for the exact reason stated above ^^^^^. Just to keep it out of the way from people when not in use. That's also good to know that it'll take at least 3 people to mount it. I haven't considered if I'd want to hang a TV behind the screen for the same reasons as stated above either. In time though I probably will as it makes perfect sense. Ok, here's the plans...

post-49977-0-12460000-1445820790_thumb.j

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just got back from showing my wife what my plans were for the "bonus room" aka theater. She loved what my intensions are so I'll be sure to keep you all in the loop as far as the build goes. I woulda taken a few more pictures tonight but it was too dark for any good photos to come out. I did however find a picture of the floor plans I'd taken a few weeks ago so hopefully this will give you guys a better idea of what I'm working with. The vertical dotted lines on the right side of the room indicates where the ceiling slants at a 45 degree angle to meet the wall. This is where I plan on locating my screen. I'm thinking of something between 130-150in with the RF-7 II's flanking the sides. 

 

I'm still leaning towards the tensioned retractable screens for the exact reason stated above ^^^^^. Just to keep it out of the way from people when not in use. That's also good to know that it'll take at least 3 people to mount it. I haven't considered if I'd want to hang a TV behind the screen for the same reasons as stated above either. In time though I probably will as it makes perfect sense. Ok, here's the plans...

 

You may want to consider absorbers or a combination of absorbers and diffusors on the two 45 degree ceiling slopes, and also area rugs at the point where the sound bounces off the floor to your ears, and at the first reflection points on the walls.  Do you know about the mirror test?

 

What is the ceiling height at maximum, and at minimum? 

 

Looks good.

 

If the floor is anything like most covered attic floors, your movie bass will pretty much go right through, and also rattle dishes and walls below.  I'd probably rule out a floating floor, if it takes away from ceiling height, though. 

Edited by garyrc
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't given much thought to adding absorbers/ diffusors but I do want to do something in regards to insulating the sound and bass. In my current house I'm renting, the bass travels through all the walls and will be rattling shit on the walls in our bedroom and bathroom. Super irritating. I originally wanted to build or find a house for sale with a full basement so that I could turn that into my theater. I'd assume a basement would provide much better insulation for the sound but I couldn't find any existing homes for sale that fit my criteria, and it was another 50k to add a basement to the floor plan we ultimately chose. Anyways, as for the ceiling hight, I don't know for sure. I'd assume either 8 or 9 feet. Most likely 8 though. And on the side walls it's probably 5.5-6ft until you hit the 45 degree slants. Luckily half the bonus room is above the garage so I'm hoping that'll help reduce the bass felt/ heard throughout the rest of the house. I couldn't actually soundproof anything as the overall budget of the house before all the "upgrades" were right at the max I could be approved for a loan.

 

I don't have any knowledge or experience with the "mirror test" but I have an idea as to what it is. Soundproofing my house to the best of my ability will surly be a priority though. But I'd almost need someone who knows what they're doing, test the room for the acoustics and how and where the absorbers and diffusers should be located. I'll be sure to do a lot of research on it though and I'm sure I'll have to consult you all with more questions I have in that regard. Also, since the bonus room sits half over the garage, the garage has to be completely finished to meet the builder codes so the bonus room will be fully insulated on all sides. I know that won't eliminate any of the bass but that's better than nothing. lol The floors will be carpeted too. I'm not sure if that makes any difference but there's that, too.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't given much thought to adding absorbers/ diffusors but I do want to do something in regards to insulating the sound and bass. In my current house I'm renting, the bass travels through all the walls and will be rattling shit on the walls in our bedroom and bathroom. Super irritating. I originally wanted to build or find a house for sale with a full basement so that I could turn that into my theater. I'd assume a basement would provide much better insulation for the sound but I couldn't find any existing homes for sale that fit my criteria, and it was another 50k to add a basement to the floor plan we ultimately chose. Anyways, as for the ceiling hight, I don't know for sure. I'd assume either 8 or 9 feet. Most likely 8 though. And on the side walls it's probably 5.5-6ft until you hit the 45 degree slants. Luckily half the bonus room is above the garage so I'm hoping that'll help reduce the bass felt/ heard throughout the rest of the house. I couldn't actually soundproof anything as the overall budget of the house before all the "upgrades" were right at the max I could be approved for a loan.

 

I don't have any knowledge or experience with the "mirror test" but I have an idea as to what it is. Soundproofing my house to the best of my ability will surly be a priority though. But I'd almost need someone who knows what they're doing, test the room for the acoustics and how and where the absorbers and diffusers should be located. I'll be sure to do a lot of research on it though and I'm sure I'll have to consult you all with more questions I have in that regard. Also, since the bonus room sits half over the garage, the garage has to be completely finished to meet the builder codes so the bonus room will be fully insulated on all sides. I know that won't eliminate any of the bass but that's better than nothing. lol The floors will be carpeted too. I'm not sure if that makes any difference but there's that, too.

 

There's bass, and then there's bass.  Deep, loud bass is almost impossible to keep from going into the rest of the house with wood frame construction.  In our old house we had a floating floor and double walls with air space and the bass still came through... and we didn't even have a subwoofer, but our Klipschorns really pumped out bass in the 30 to 60 Hz range when called upon to do so.  Fortunately, since the frequencies above about 80 to 100 Hz didn't go through, the neighbors couldn't locate the source, and didn't know who to blame. 

Edited by garyrc
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have an Elunevision electric & tensioned AT screen and like it a lot.  It comes down in from of a plasma 60-inch for movies, and partially blocks a door to a second media room that the kids use. So I don't leave it down when not in use.  I have had it for a couple of years and have had no issues with it.  Highly recommended.

 

See my galley for pics.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...