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jason str

New to me, first pair of Heresy's

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... the cones look as dry as 80 year old hooker cooch.

 

It is deeply disturbing that you know this.

No pictures please. That had me LOL for sure.

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Seal the backs.....and add a layer to the inside of the panel to stiffen it up more. The caps and polarity probably are jacked with. Rick

 

I was suprised to find the rear panel is only 1/2" plywood, bracing could be an easy fix i guess.

Here is my H3 retro brace job that's 3/4" white oak the horizontal baffle brace between the woofer and K701 is wide to allow for woofer check out.these cabinets are air tight and very solid now with two full length verticals on both sides and back and a single on the top and the bottom all panels are tied together side to side front to back and top to bottom. Every corner seam between panel to panel now has a 3/4" batten. These speaker have real impact capability now.

post-44375-0-56300000-1446755964_thumb.j

Edited by moray james

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" was suprised to find the rear panel is only 1/2" plywood"

 

Scrap from Klipschorn cuts out of the 60" square BB sheets.

 

The network boards were also from scrap, usually 3/4".

 

Waste not, want not.

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Seal the backs.....and add a layer to the inside of the panel to stiffen it up more. The caps and polarity probably are jacked with. Rick

 

I was suprised to find the rear panel is only 1/2" plywood, bracing could be an easy fix i guess.

 

Here is my H3 retro brace job that's 3/4" white oak the horizontal baffle brace between the woofer and K701 is wide to allow for woofer check out.these cabinets are air tight and very solid now with two full length verticals on both sides and back and a single on the top and the bottom all panels are tied together side to side front to back and top to bottom. Every corner seam between panel to panel now has a 3/4" batten. These speaker have real impact capability now.

 

Aren't you decreasing the internal cabinet volume with all that additional bracing? 

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Seal the backs.....and add a layer to the inside of the panel to stiffen it up more. The caps and polarity probably are jacked with. Rick

 

I was suprised to find the rear panel is only 1/2" plywood, bracing could be an easy fix i guess.

very little actually That is the main reason White Oak was used it is as stiff and rigid as it gets so brace size could be kept to an absolute minimum (3/4"x3/4") and the cabinets are about 95% packed solid with high density fiberglass to obtain maximum increase in apparent internal volume.

Here is my H3 retro brace job that's 3/4" white oak the horizontal baffle brace between the woofer and K701 is wide to allow for woofer check out.these cabinets are air tight and very solid now with two full length verticals on both sides and back and a single on the top and the bottom all panels are tied together side to side front to back and top to bottom. Every corner seam between panel to panel now has a 3/4" batten. These speaker have real impact capability now. Stock H3 does not even come close to these in any way especially bass response. These perform up on 22" high four post Skylan Stands which were custom designed for the Heresy.

Aren't you decreasing the internal cabinet volume with all that additional bracing?

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Seal the backs.....and add a layer to the inside of the panel to stiffen it up more. The caps and polarity probably are jacked with. Rick

 

I was suprised to find the rear panel is only 1/2" plywood, bracing could be an easy fix i guess.

 

Here is my H3 retro brace job that's 3/4" white oak the horizontal baffle brace between the woofer and K701 is wide to allow for woofer check out.these cabinets are air tight and very solid now with two full length verticals on both sides and back and a single on the top and the bottom all panels are tied together side to side front to back and top to bottom. Every corner seam between panel to panel now has a 3/4" batten. These speaker have real impact capability now.

 

 

I may run 2 strips down the back on the inside 1/2" or so from the K-55 with a center support & some minor wedges between the squawker & woofer cone but not going overboard as i don't feel its needed with Baltic Birch.

 

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I could burn some tones i guess, what's the bridge resistor consist of ? Just a resistor ?

any 25 ohm potentiometer / rheostat

 

See: More complete analysis with minimal equipment on the top of page 2

 

It's a bit of a PITA, but cheaper than a woofer tester.

 

 

If after the crossover update & a good visual inspection i may need to look into this further.

 

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" was suprised to find the rear panel is only 1/2" plywood"

 

Scrap from Klipschorn cuts out of the 60" square BB sheets.

 

The network boards were also from scrap, usually 3/4".

 

Waste not, want not.

 

Waste is bad but so is using 1/2" BB without at least some bracing on the panel.

 

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I spent more time today with the Heresy's and it seems to me that one of the k-22 coils may be dragging just a bit.

 

Less output and some unwanted noise.

 

Maybe bottomed out in the past.

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"Waste is bad but so is using 1/2" BB without at least some bracing on the panel."

 

Perhaps,

 

But there are even larger unbraced areas in a Klipschorn of the same 12mm BB.

Edited by djk
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Seal the backs.....and add a layer to the inside of the panel to stiffen it up more. The caps and polarity probably are jacked with. Rick

 

I was suprised to find the rear panel is only 1/2" plywood, bracing could be an easy fix i guess.

if you build two you will know otherwise you are kidding yourself.

Here is my H3 retro brace job that's 3/4" white oak the horizontal baffle brace between the woofer and K701 is wide to allow for woofer check out.these cabinets are air tight and very solid now with two full length verticals on both sides and back and a single on the top and the bottom all panels are tied together side to side front to back and top to bottom. Every corner seam between panel to panel now has a 3/4" batten. These speaker have real impact capability now.

 

I may run 2 strips down the back on the inside 1/2" or so from the K-55 with a center support & some minor wedges between the squawker & woofer cone but not going overboard as i don't feel its needed with Baltic Birch.

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Seal the backs.....and add a layer to the inside of the panel to stiffen it up more. The caps and polarity probably are jacked with. Rick

 

I was suprised to find the rear panel is only 1/2" plywood, bracing could be an easy fix i guess.

 

if you build two you will know otherwise you are kidding yourself.

Here is my H3 retro brace job that's 3/4" white oak the horizontal baffle brace between the woofer and K701 is wide to allow for woofer check out.these cabinets are air tight and very solid now with two full length verticals on both sides and back and a single on the top and the bottom all panels are tied together side to side front to back and top to bottom. Every corner seam between panel to panel now has a 3/4" batten. These speaker have real impact capability now.

 

 

I may run 2 strips down the back on the inside 1/2" or so from the K-55 with a center support & some minor wedges between the squawker & woofer cone but not going overboard as i don't feel its needed with Baltic Birch.

 

 

 

Kidding myself ?

 

When i was younger i felt the same way you do and used 1" stock and doubled up the motorboard, now i know better.

 

If i was using the Heresy to hold up a building i would add support but these small panels of 3/4" BB braces are not warranted.

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"Waste is bad but so is using 1/2" BB without at least some bracing on the panel."

 

Perhaps,

 

But there are even larger unbraced areas in a Klipschorn of the same 12mm BB.

 

Never would have guessed that, i take it you built yourself a set of K-horns.

 

Probably about the same as building one of these THT subwoofers i would guess with all the angles but that's what makes it fun. Anybody can build a box.

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Parts came in today and the crossovers are now updated.

 

All the wires were hooked up correctly.

 

Seals on the K-55 look good.

 

That woofer i mentioned was making noise had a dust cap about to fall off, hope that's what was making all the racket. All i had on hand was some tacky glue witch is similar to Elmers but a bit stronger, hopefully it holds.

 

Won't be up running tonight because of the wet glue but i have high hopes.

 

The waiting is the hardest part.

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The Heresy in the left pic sure looks satisfied. :emotion-21:

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Having your dust cap glued back on always feels good......

 

 

Yes, hope i did not lose too much dust through the loose cap.

Edited by jason str

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